Aeroforce Intercepter and LC-1 anyone?

1BDSNK

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Yes, I have and the combination works just fine. It’s a little more than plug and play but not by much. You have to add it to the Areoforce gauge as one of the two accessory / analog input connections.

If I remember correctly, you have to program and label the analog input, it’s not hard though. The label you select from a menu of available option for the analog input, then set the upper limit of your wideband and the slope.

I installed the LC-1 and a Speedhut Wideband A/F gauge and since the LC-1 has two outputs I ran the other output to my Aeroforce and they both readout the same A/F.

With the LC-1 and Aeroforce setup you should be able to data log both RPM & A/F with the Aeroforce gauge. The only drawback is, you can only play back the run on the Aerofoce gauge.
 

03 Whippled Cobra

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How hard is it to hook up the LC-1 to the Speedhut wideband o2 gauge? I have that exact combo coming to me in the mail as we speak.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Yes, I have and the combination works just fine. It’s a little more than plug and play but not by much. You have to add it to the Areoforce gauge as one of the two accessory / analog input connections.

If I remember correctly, you have to program and label the analog input, it’s not hard though. The label you select from a menu of available option for the analog input, then set the upper limit of your wideband and the slope.

I installed the LC-1 and a Speedhut Wideband A/F gauge and since the LC-1 has two outputs I ran the other output to my Aeroforce and they both readout the same A/F.

With the LC-1 and Aeroforce setup you should be able to data log both RPM & A/F with the Aeroforce gauge. The only drawback is, you can only play back the run on the Aerofoce gauge.

Where do you have your LC1 grounded?
 

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1BDSNK

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How hard is it to hook up the LC-1 to the Speedhut wideband o2 gauge? I have that exact combo coming to me in the mail as we speak.

It's plug and play! Works right out of the box no problems. What color face did you order on the Speedhut guage.
 

03 Whippled Cobra

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It's plug and play! Works right out of the box no problems. What color face did you order on the Speedhut guage.

Plug and play is nice! So it's as easy as running the lines from the o2 sensor up to the gauge and that's it? No clibration needed? Sweet!!! I got the silver face, reverse El Glo. So the numbers should light up green at night. I also got the red SVT logon on them so it should match factory pretty close.
 

1BDSNK

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Where do you have your LC1 grounded?

I ran the wires from the LC-1 up through the shifter tower. Cut a small hole in the weather boot around the shifter and snaked them under the radio consol and grounded the wires on the transmission hump.

There's a warning in the LC-1 manual about proper grounding. I used a single ground lug and soldered all my signal grounds and power grounds to this lug. There was an existing bolt with a star washer that I used to attach this lug to the car body / ground.

There’s probably a number of bolts that can be used under the consol, I just located the closes one and sized my ground lug to fit that bolt.

Seems to work okay, no problems yet.
 

1BDSNK

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To the OP.

Enclosed are the Aeroforce setting you'll need in order to run an LC-1 on analog 1 or 2.

Slope = 003.0
Intercept = 007.4

The next step is to re-label the display with "A/F" and this is selected from a menu on the Aeroforce gauge.

Hope this helps.
 

SVTkel

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To the OP.

Enclosed are the Aeroforce setting you'll need in order to run an LC-1 on analog 1 or 2.

Slope = 003.0
Intercept = 007.4

The next step is to re-label the display with "A/F" and this is selected from a menu on the Aeroforce gauge.

Hope this helps.


So I can link directly to my Aeroforce guage with an LC-1 and no other parts?
 

1BDSNK

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So I can link directly to my Aeroforce guage with an LC-1 and no other parts?

Yes, that all you need. The LC-1 will interface directly with the Aeroforce gauge.

You have to program the Aeroforce gauge to translate the output from the LC-1 in to AFR. In other words, you have to tell the Aeroforce guage what the 0-5 volts from the LC-1 correlates to in AFR. The output from the LC-1 is 0 to 5 Volts the low end represents 0V = 7.35AFR and the high end 5V = 22.39AFR

There's a calculation in the Aeroforce manual for this purpose, but I didn't find it very intuitive and had to go over it a couple of times. That's why I posted my numbers, to save the OP some time in trying to figure it out.

All of the above information is available in the two manuals that come with the LC-1 and the Aeroforce guage.
 

1BDSNK

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Plug and play is nice! So it's as easy as running the lines from the o2 sensor up to the gauge and that's it? No clibration needed? Sweet!!! I got the silver face, reverse El Glo. So the numbers should light up green at night. I also got the red SVT logon on them so it should match factory pretty close.

That’s going to look nice!!

I made a mistake when I place my ordered for the Speedhut gauge. I didn’t find out until after receiving mine that the coke bottle green is a special order. I ended up with silver face black SVT and blue EL. It looks normal during the day, but at night it’s blue instead of the green.

It’s kind of grown on me now and I like it.

Here’s a tip you might be able to use. The Aeroforce gauge doesn’t need any power connections as it gets it’s power through the OBD II port, but the Speedhut will require two connections.

Go to Auto zone and buy a couple of “Mini Add Circuits”. These will make the job easier and will look more professional.

The fuse box located in the drivers side foot well, tap fuse position #20 for keyed on-off voltage to power the gauge and tap fuse position #37 for cluster dimmer voltage for the gauge lights.

Hope this helps
 

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I ran the wires from the LC-1 up through the shifter tower. Cut a small hole in the weather boot around the shifter and snaked them under the radio consol and grounded the wires on the transmission hump.

There's a warning in the LC-1 manual about proper grounding. I used a single ground lug and soldered all my signal grounds and power grounds to this lug. There was an existing bolt with a star washer that I used to attach this lug to the car body / ground.

There’s probably a number of bolts that can be used under the consol, I just located the closes one and sized my ground lug to fit that bolt.

Seems to work okay, no problems yet.

I have mine soldered to a single lug and grounded under the dash. It worked flawlessly for a year, then I went to the aeroforce for the gauge instead of their xd-16, and have had nothing but problems since.
 

SVTkel

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Okay thanks bud.

Yes, that all you need. The LC-1 will interface directly with the Aeroforce gauge.

You have to program the Aeroforce gauge to translate the output from the LC-1 in to AFR. In other words, you have to tell the Aeroforce guage what the 0-5 volts from the LC-1 correlates to in AFR. The output from the LC-1 is 0 to 5 Volts the low end represents 0V = 7.35AFR and the high end 5V = 22.39AFR

There's a calculation in the Aeroforce manual for this purpose, but I didn't find it very intuitive and had to go over it a couple of times. That's why I posted my numbers, to save the OP some time in trying to figure it out.

All of the above information is available in the two manuals that come with the LC-1 and the Aeroforce guage.
 

1BDSNK

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I have mine soldered to a single lug and grounded under the dash. It worked flawlessly for a year, then I went to the aeroforce for the gauge instead of their xd-16, and have had nothing but problems since.

What sort of problems are you experiencing?
 

SoCalHarley

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I am ordering the White/Black Display with white face and black bezel.... what is the color of the illumination at night with white/black display?
 

1BDSNK

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I have mine soldered to a single lug and grounded under the dash. It worked flawlessly for a year, then I went to the aeroforce for the gauge instead of their xd-16, and have had nothing but problems since.

I can imagine that would be frustrating. Couple of things to try.

If you haven’t already, loosen and re-tighten the ground connection. Maybe it came loose or oxidized and tightening it up will clean the connection. Also, a star or internal tooth lack washer will provide a better “bite” between the two metal surfaces than a spilt lock washer. It’s worth a try.

Another idea, when you swapped out the xd-16 gauge, what did you do with black calibration wire. I wonder did you use Innovate suggestion of hooking up the switch and LED? If so, next time this occurs look to see if the LED comes on and check the brightness. I know brightness is kind of subjective, but if it appears dim it could be part of the problem. The Light Emitting Diode (LED) is a diode and could be “leaky” and instead of presenting an open to the flow of current, it could actually represent a slight resistance and might trigger the calibration process in the LC-1.

Hope you figure it out.


Good luck.
 

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