Advise needed (cleanest way to paint a roll cage?)

RL1

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Hey guys, I have a 25-5 cage in my fox, lots of tube to paint. My previous 8 pointer I rolled on some Rustoleum Hammered and it actually looked pretty damn good, and was extremely durable. I started cleaning and priming my 25-5 yesterday with Rustoleum roll on primer and it's a pain in the ass with the 25-5. Just too many tight spots, areas where the bar's intersect. I need to use a foam brush in those areas and I can see when I start using the Hammered that it isn't going to come out like I want it to. The halo is tight to the roof also so I don't have much space to work there either.

I dropped some serious coin on the chassis and I don't want to screw it up with a hack paint job. I initially wanted to spray it the body color but figured it would be more of pain in the ass covering and masking the car - well my opinion changed and I want to spray it now.

My question is, what type of gun can I get that has a very controlled spay and how do i keep over spray to a minimum??
 
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RL1

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Some pics

kth21.jpg

kth1-1.jpg

DSC00063.jpg

foxcage2.jpg

foxcage.jpg
 
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straightliner1

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There's NO way around it, you're going to have to mask the piss out of the interior. Remove anything you can, seats, steering wheel, etc. and cover the rest with masking paper and tape. For a job like that I would look into a cheapie detail gun (Devilbiss or Campbell Hausfeld) that used the sealed bag style feed cans. This is due to the many times you'll flip the gun upside down to hit all the odd angles.

Like this:
MMM16000[03].jpg
 
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RL1

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There's NO way around it, you're going to have to mask the piss out of the interior. Remove anything you can, seats, steering wheel, etc. and cover the rest with masking paper and tape. For a job like that I would look into a cheapie detail gun (Devilbiss or Campbell Hausfeld) that used the sealed bag style feed cans. This is due to the many times you'll flip the gun upside down to hit all the odd angles.

Like this:
MMM16000[03].jpg

Should I go with a base + clear or enamel job?
 

fiveoh2go

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Hammertone in a can. Know it, love it, use it. LOL.

Seriously, a friend of mine who runs a fabrication/chassis shop just cuts the roof off, cuts/fish mouths all the pieces to fit and then tacks everything. Next he removes the whole cage from the car, finish welds everything up and then paints it. Drop the cage back down into the car and reattach the roof. Easy!!!!! Haha.

Here's his '64 Thunderbolt he used the described method above on. He cut the top at the bottom of the windshield and behind the 2 inch thick trim on the back part of the top. This method also allows for getting the cage very close to the interior panels to keep a clean appearance.

dsc00262yl7.jpg
 
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straightliner1

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Should I go with a base + clear or enamel job?


If you have access to it, use something like DuPont Imron. I think it's a Urethane enamel and is hard as nails when cured, BUT that shit is DEADLY if inhaled. Get a forced air respirator, not a cartridge mask!

EDIT: It's actually a polyurethane enamel. You'll be far safer spraying a waterborne color and a good clear if you so choose but the commercial grade Imron might perform better against chips, scratches, etc.
 
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RL1

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If you have access to it, use something like DuPont Imron. I think it's a Urethane enamel and is hard as nails when cured, BUT that shit is DEADLY if inhaled. Get a forced air respirator, not a cartridge mask!

EDIT: It's actually a polyurethane enamel. You'll be far safer spraying a waterborne color and a good clear if you so choose but the commercial grade Imron might perform better against chips, scratches, etc.

Wasnt the Imron taken off the market years ago??
 

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