Advice, Please.

[MASSHOLE_SN95]

I've had about enough of this lash adjuster tick. time to get it fixed. if im gonna have someone in there, what should i replace?
1. how much should it cost just to fix the tick?
-parts
-labor
2. If valves, springs, are ok, should i replace them anyway?

3. while someone is in there, should i do something else to build power at a moderate cost?

thanks in advance, i understand its hard to quote a price without knowing EVERYTHING. For the sake of the conversation, lets just say everything goes smoothly and i have no "extra" charges.

Rock On:rockon:

 

[crazycarlo]

Well there arent to many things you can do with just the valve covers off to add power with the exception of cams and they are $$$. Are you sure its a lash adjuster? How loud is the tick? Does it go away with RPM? Is there any way it could be an exhaust leak, injectors, or the timing chains?

 

[MASSHOLE_SN95]

thanks carlo, i cant believe that you are the ONLY one who has responded. pretty sure this is a common problem. any who, its a light tap, drivers side. it goes away with rpm. i feel very confident it is not exhaust, or injector. any idea what parts would cost?

 

[howie8124]

You could do a C head swap? Possibly swap your intake cams out of the B heads into the C's and make a little more power...

Just an idea

 

[crazycarlo]

Well the lash adjuster is a common problem, most people just replace them. Or atleast run a little thicker oil just to see if that helps. Just make sure its not a bearing going bad.

 

[Top Fuel Friday]

Only do springs if you're swapping cams or you have a broke one (You'd know that by now)

 

[MASSHOLE_SN95]

Thanks guys, Carlo, how would i tell if its a bearing?

 

[SpittingCobra]

You should do as much investigation as you can to determine that the tick is in fact coming from the valve train.. Like a stethoscope etc.. or have it diagnosed by a master technician. Yes I would even pay for a diag if you are not totally sure. Then if it is, pull the valve cover and try to repair it on the car. The only things worth doing to the heads or valve train aren't possible to do with the heads still on the car, for instance 5 angle valve job, opening up the seat, etc. NaSVT is the guy to talk to about this. And the heads cannot easily be removed with the engine still in the car either. Sooooo unless you are planning to completely overhaul this engine I don't see any point in separating the heads from the engine. Yes cams can be done with the engine in the car.. but if you haven't priced out cam upgrades.. you aren't gonna like what you find, 4 cams, 32 springs, 32 retainers, etc. etc. for not enormous gains.. I'm talking thousands of $$ here too..

Is this any help!? I'm responding because of you bitching thread about no answers..
I think the problem is it's rather open ended question your're asking..

EDIT: Just reread your post. You're asking about labor cost and having someone do it etc. Problem is most of us post tech information/questions here and work on our own vehicles. So I and many others have absolutely no clue what it costs except for the machine work since most of us outsource that portion..

 

[RIO RED SNAKE]

I call rod bearing , people who think these motors make noises from the chains make me laugh, how many honest cases have there been of timing chain noises/lash adjusters, I've seen 2v and 4v engines blow to pieces and the chains and adjusters are still perfect, you have a rod bearing noises, if you hold the gas at like 2k rpm with about 1/8 throttle and u hear it tapping etc then you have a rod bearing noise, especially if it does it more cold than warm..

 

[98 N/A 4V]

Pull the valve cover and start the car. It will run w/o the cover and only get a small splatter of oil here and there. Definately cleanable with a rag. Then listen for the ticking if its not in the head, then like Rio Red said its a rod bearing.

Although rod bearings are usually rpm dependant. Meaning if you blip the gas, the tapping increases based on the rpm.