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Advice on things to do before dropping the motor in...
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<blockquote data-quote="scottydsntknow" data-source="post: 16347633" data-attributes="member: 79824"><p>Damn you are doing basically what I did and am still doing with my car. 2V with a blown motor, swap to 4V and IRS/handling. </p><p></p><p>What I did when the motor was out:</p><p>-Head Cooling mod</p><p>-Properly seated and torqued stock manifolds</p><p>-Oil pan gasket</p><p>-Pilot bearing/clutch</p><p></p><p>That's it. These motors don't really need anything bolt on wise until you do a buildup. Cams I would never want to do in the car so if you are gonna do them then definitely do them on the stand but they are $$$. NASVT is the cam guy for 4V as was already mentioned. I did have mine tuned remotely and I didn't even risk starting it up without a good startup 4V tune loaded. I used James Gordon and its been flawless for over 2 years now. </p><p></p><p>Longtubes... I have 0 idea how ppl drop these motors in with longtubes on. My 4V going in with the stock manifolds was a **** hair clearance going in, longtubes would for sure not have fit. I had to remove the starter too and put it back on from underneath. </p><p></p><p>For the IRS definitely go with the Full Tilt Boogie kit. Delrin in everything. Poly is garbage and shouldn't be used for anything that articulates like control arms. For the IRS subframe bushings you could go with Prothane stuff to cut down on NVH a little bit but that's it. They are a royal bitch to do all the bushings but with the FTBR tools its doable. Just a lot of 4 letter words. Also make sure you do the cross axis joints too while its all out. Better swaybar with spherical endlinks should also get done with the Poly bushings. Good set of springs and shocks out back, I went budget with Tokico D specs all around and Steeda sport springs. </p><p></p><p>This is as far as I've gotten till just now I started ordering parts to set the front up to handle better. Was kicking around a tubular K member but they are not good for handling and the MM piece is awesome but pricey. Stock K is what I settled on and actually is a great K for the street, just heavy. MM centered aluminum rack bushings, new tie rods, MM bumpsteer, MM CC plates, Global West Del-A-Lum A arms, Steeda X2 balljoints, beefy swaybar/bushings and go. I have all that stuff shipping in and will install in the next month or two. </p><p></p><p>Any questions about the 4V swap or IRS swap or anything else lmk.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="scottydsntknow, post: 16347633, member: 79824"] Damn you are doing basically what I did and am still doing with my car. 2V with a blown motor, swap to 4V and IRS/handling. What I did when the motor was out: -Head Cooling mod -Properly seated and torqued stock manifolds -Oil pan gasket -Pilot bearing/clutch That's it. These motors don't really need anything bolt on wise until you do a buildup. Cams I would never want to do in the car so if you are gonna do them then definitely do them on the stand but they are $$$. NASVT is the cam guy for 4V as was already mentioned. I did have mine tuned remotely and I didn't even risk starting it up without a good startup 4V tune loaded. I used James Gordon and its been flawless for over 2 years now. Longtubes... I have 0 idea how ppl drop these motors in with longtubes on. My 4V going in with the stock manifolds was a **** hair clearance going in, longtubes would for sure not have fit. I had to remove the starter too and put it back on from underneath. For the IRS definitely go with the Full Tilt Boogie kit. Delrin in everything. Poly is garbage and shouldn't be used for anything that articulates like control arms. For the IRS subframe bushings you could go with Prothane stuff to cut down on NVH a little bit but that's it. They are a royal bitch to do all the bushings but with the FTBR tools its doable. Just a lot of 4 letter words. Also make sure you do the cross axis joints too while its all out. Better swaybar with spherical endlinks should also get done with the Poly bushings. Good set of springs and shocks out back, I went budget with Tokico D specs all around and Steeda sport springs. This is as far as I've gotten till just now I started ordering parts to set the front up to handle better. Was kicking around a tubular K member but they are not good for handling and the MM piece is awesome but pricey. Stock K is what I settled on and actually is a great K for the street, just heavy. MM centered aluminum rack bushings, new tie rods, MM bumpsteer, MM CC plates, Global West Del-A-Lum A arms, Steeda X2 balljoints, beefy swaybar/bushings and go. I have all that stuff shipping in and will install in the next month or two. Any questions about the 4V swap or IRS swap or anything else lmk. [/QUOTE]
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