Advice on things to do before dropping the motor in...

ajaf1656

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I have a 99 Cobra motor and transmission that I'll be using to replace the blown motor in my 01 Bullitt. I was wondering what suggestions you might have for any modifications I should make before installing it in the car. As of now I'm thinking about long tube headers and aftermarket camshafts. I've installed headers on a 2v in the car and it was a pain. I'm assuming that installing the long tubes with the motor out and dropping the engine/ trans in already mated would be an easier option. I've never installed cams, but I can only imagine it's going to be worth doing it with the motor out. I also have a spare set of 4v heads that I pulled from an 03 Aviator. As I understand it, these should be the same heads. Would it be worth sending them for head work and swapping the heads out?
It will be a while before I anything is ready, so I thought I's ask for your thoughts on things I should do with the motor on the engine stand.
Thanks.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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now would definitely be the time to put on headers and swap cams. The degreeing process can be a little daunting but there are instructions out there. While degreeing everything you can give the timing components a once over too. You might wanna throw in a new pilot bearing. If you don't have any kind of head cooling mod now would be good for that as well. There's not these engines really "need"

Depends on what the future power goals are, honestly I'd save the money of having the heads messed with and put it towards boost if anything. If you want to do a cheap build could always throw in some terminator rods and some different pistons while it's out. Now would also be the time if you're thinking about any powdercoated valve covers and such.
 

ajaf1656

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What are the goals? We can spend your money in all kinds of ways.

The end goal is to make it a good all around sports car. I'm not looking to get back into drag racing. I want to build this car more for handling, not quarter mile times. I have an IRS assembly that I'll be installing with enhancements. I think I'd like to see 350-370 to the wheels keeping it N/A, but that's just an aiming point.
 

01yellercobra

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If you're staying N/A every little bit helps. I would send the Aviator heads out for some work. As shurur said, get in contact with Todd about cams. He's pretty good about being realistic with goals as well.

Are you planning on doing a rebuild or do you just want to do what's needed before dropping the engine in? If a rebuild is happening I'd look into bumping the compression as well.
 

shurur

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NASVT Recipe fixed!!!
NA ~320 RWHP with 99-01 DOHC C-Head 4.6L:
K&N filter
OEM Cams
March damper
March hydroboost and WP pulleys
Long tubes
Hi Flow Cats/Cat Delete mid-pipe
Tune (canned..more $ for real tuner tune)

360-370 RWHP:
NA SVT (Todd Warren) custom cams properly degreed.
short runner. (only If running above 7k RPM)
Tune
 

DSG2003Mach1

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you dont need head work to get to the mid 300s, Id do the cams from Todd as mentioned with full exhaust and put that money towards some gears. It would really rip with some 4.10s too
 

ajaf1656

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I had 3.90 in the rear of my 2000 Mustang GT, but it was my daily driver back then and I probably wouldn't have wanted any taller. I don't have any reservations about going taller since this car will be mostly for recreation.

I don't think I'm going to dig into the bottom end now. If the guy who I bought the motor from was honest, the motor only has about 53k on it.

I've been reading Sean Hyland's book "How to Build Max-Performance 4.6 Liter Ford Engines". Some of the information is dated, some is overkill for my goals, but I'm trying to educate myself on a lot of the more in-depth aspects of performance. I actually think pulling the heads off the aviator was one of the more constructive things I've done as far as making a lot of what I read and see in print make sense in practice. It took two days at a local pick-and-pull to get them off. It's nice to make some mistakes and figure things out there before wrenching on my own stuff. Haha

As far as having any head-work done, I've tried to dig through the forums here and learn from others' experiences. Like a lot of things with these 20 year old cars, a lot of the info is getting dated. It seems like Fox Lake Racing has fairly positive reviews, while some of the other Modular Head Shops have been hit or miss to say the least. I've looked into some race shops in the Boise area and there are some that do race motor builds and head work, I just don't know how much weight to grant to the experience of a shop that has experience with the 4v head over a local guy who might not have a lot of experience with them.

I really appreciate all the feedback. I have a busy couple of months coming up with work where I'm training for a promotion. I should be done around mid-March and after that, I'll just be on call for a while getting paid if I get called to work or not. I'm hoping that through the spring and summer months, I'll have a lot of time and a little extra money to make some decent progress on the car.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Modular head shop changed hands a few years back when the owner passed, I believe Jordan that runs it now has a decent rep.

ive also seem some lightning guys saying good things about cncport.com
 

shurur

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fyi what little I vaguely mentioned about head work came from Todd Warren (na svt) posts; so he is a good source with that info, as well as shop recommendations.

You probably dont need head work for what you want, but it is a nice-to-have....better to piggyback that work later should you need the heads deshrounded for a BB later...
 

scottydsntknow

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Damn you are doing basically what I did and am still doing with my car. 2V with a blown motor, swap to 4V and IRS/handling.

What I did when the motor was out:
-Head Cooling mod
-Properly seated and torqued stock manifolds
-Oil pan gasket
-Pilot bearing/clutch

That's it. These motors don't really need anything bolt on wise until you do a buildup. Cams I would never want to do in the car so if you are gonna do them then definitely do them on the stand but they are $$$. NASVT is the cam guy for 4V as was already mentioned. I did have mine tuned remotely and I didn't even risk starting it up without a good startup 4V tune loaded. I used James Gordon and its been flawless for over 2 years now.

Longtubes... I have 0 idea how ppl drop these motors in with longtubes on. My 4V going in with the stock manifolds was a **** hair clearance going in, longtubes would for sure not have fit. I had to remove the starter too and put it back on from underneath.

For the IRS definitely go with the Full Tilt Boogie kit. Delrin in everything. Poly is garbage and shouldn't be used for anything that articulates like control arms. For the IRS subframe bushings you could go with Prothane stuff to cut down on NVH a little bit but that's it. They are a royal bitch to do all the bushings but with the FTBR tools its doable. Just a lot of 4 letter words. Also make sure you do the cross axis joints too while its all out. Better swaybar with spherical endlinks should also get done with the Poly bushings. Good set of springs and shocks out back, I went budget with Tokico D specs all around and Steeda sport springs.

This is as far as I've gotten till just now I started ordering parts to set the front up to handle better. Was kicking around a tubular K member but they are not good for handling and the MM piece is awesome but pricey. Stock K is what I settled on and actually is a great K for the street, just heavy. MM centered aluminum rack bushings, new tie rods, MM bumpsteer, MM CC plates, Global West Del-A-Lum A arms, Steeda X2 balljoints, beefy swaybar/bushings and go. I have all that stuff shipping in and will install in the next month or two.

Any questions about the 4V swap or IRS swap or anything else lmk.
 

ajaf1656

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Any questions about the 4V swap or IRS swap or anything else lmk.

Awesome thanks! Did you have the 4v ECU? The guy I bought my engine from claims he has it, but it's buried somewhere. I'm starting to wonder if he'll ever find it and what I need to do if he doesn't.
 

DSG2003Mach1

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Damn you are doing basically what I did and am still doing with my car. 2V with a blown motor, swap to 4V and IRS/handling.

What I did when the motor was out:
-Head Cooling mod
-Properly seated and torqued stock manifolds
-Oil pan gasket
-Pilot bearing/clutch

That's it. These motors don't really need anything bolt on wise until you do a buildup. Cams I would never want to do in the car so if you are gonna do them then definitely do them on the stand but they are $$$. NASVT is the cam guy for 4V as was already mentioned. I did have mine tuned remotely and I didn't even risk starting it up without a good startup 4V tune loaded. I used James Gordon and its been flawless for over 2 years now.

Longtubes... I have 0 idea how ppl drop these motors in with longtubes on. My 4V going in with the stock manifolds was a **** hair clearance going in, longtubes would for sure not have fit. I had to remove the starter too and put it back on from underneath.

For the IRS definitely go with the Full Tilt Boogie kit. Delrin in everything. Poly is garbage and shouldn't be used for anything that articulates like control arms. For the IRS subframe bushings you could go with Prothane stuff to cut down on NVH a little bit but that's it. They are a royal bitch to do all the bushings but with the FTBR tools its doable. Just a lot of 4 letter words. Also make sure you do the cross axis joints too while its all out. Better swaybar with spherical endlinks should also get done with the Poly bushings. Good set of springs and shocks out back, I went budget with Tokico D specs all around and Steeda sport springs.

This is as far as I've gotten till just now I started ordering parts to set the front up to handle better. Was kicking around a tubular K member but they are not good for handling and the MM piece is awesome but pricey. Stock K is what I settled on and actually is a great K for the street, just heavy. MM centered aluminum rack bushings, new tie rods, MM bumpsteer, MM CC plates, Global West Del-A-Lum A arms, Steeda X2 balljoints, beefy swaybar/bushings and go. I have all that stuff shipping in and will install in the next month or two.

Any questions about the 4V swap or IRS swap or anything else lmk.

Ive gone in/out from the bottom, I have heard certain longtubes wont fit with both attached, I didn't feel like dealing with that
 

scottydsntknow

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Nope, 2V ecu. Just had it properly tuned. Modified the 2v engine harness for the 4v coils and alternator.
Awesome thanks! Did you have the 4v ECU? The guy I bought my engine from claims he has it, but it's buried somewhere. I'm starting to wonder if he'll ever find it and what I need to do if he doesn't.

Sent from my COR-L29 using the svtperformance.com mobile app
 

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