Advice for removing lug from broken stud

[Live Wire]

So here's what happened. Took off my wheel today to clean the inside of it and aside from a little resistance from not being removed in several years, everything came off fine. Went to remount the wheel and noticed one of the lugs felt a little weird going on and stopped tightening. Attempted to back it back out and this too felt weird and then realized it wasn't actually coming out. It reached a point where the lug (and stud) spin with just your fingers. I was thrown off by this because I didnt snap it because I can see the head turning from behind the wheel peeking through the brake shield. I uploaded a vide of the stud spinning; this is looking up between the wheel and the hub flange:
You can see how free it spins. is this thing just stripped smooth? I dunno how I did that. So that leaves me with what to do. Is there a trick to getting a pair of vice grips on that flat side stud head on the backside? Given our lugs aren't open ended, drilling the stud out isnt really an option, at least for me and my tools. I tried all sorts of things with small pry bars to try and put enough resistance on the stud to get the lug off but no dice. Harbor Frieght has cheap pointed nose vice grips... maybe they're small enough to grab hold of the stud head, but I doubt it as there is very little clearance. Any chance they make a socket for those heads that have the flat side?

Assuming I get it off, LMR and AM have cheap $50 replacement hubs (rather do that than mess with trying to replace the stud). Are these off brands OK or should I get the motorcraft thats twice as much from full tilt boogie? At $50ea I was thinking of doing both sides, but if you guys say they're crap and go with the motorcraft, then I will just do the one for now.

Thanks for reading!

 

[dumbstixlars]

That's a tough one. I had to drill out a stud last week on mine cause some tire shop ape broke a lug off. Vice grips on the backside of it seem like your only option, but like you said, not much room. I suppose you could "try" to get a saws-all in there to get to it and cut the back of the head off, or maybe a torch, but it'll take a skilled hand with a torch to no damage anything else.

 

[01yellercobra]

Ouch. I had that happen with a Bronco. But with that one I was able to pull the hub apart and slide the rim and rotor off the spindle. Then I had full access to the back of the rotor to hold the stud with vice grips.

FWIW, the cap on the lug nut is just a thin metal cover. You can knock it off with a punch or screwdriver and hammer.

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[M91196]

Throw everything I can think of out there-Impact gun, tighten first then loosen, if that doesn't work split the nut. If you can't get clearance for that can you get a welding rod on the back to tack it.
If none of those can do it maybe you can slot the stud or drive a torx bit into a hole you drill and turn the stud while you hold the nut?

 

[M91196]

Mis fired

 

[TK1299]

Maybe take off all other lugs and try and cant the wheel on the screwed up lug to maybe put enough torque to hold the bolt and turn the lug?

 

[hotcobra03]

I would drill it..

You only need to get nut off so you don't need to drill deep..

Remove the othe 4 nuts and lower car on wheel to hold stud tight to drill

 

[Live Wire]

Thanks for all the good advice. I bought a cheap pair of pointed nose vice grips from harbor freight. going to see if there is a chance I can get the snout in enough to reach that head. I can't imagine the post needs too much hold for the lug to come off.

Maybe take off all other lugs and try and cant the wheel on the screwed up lug to maybe put enough torque to hold the bolt and turn the lug?

Yea I thought the same and had a prybar on the back of the wheel to force pressure down on the stud but that wasnt enough. But as hotcobra03 mentioned, maybe put a little car weight on the stud. All I need is to get this lug off and I'm home free... can almost taste it!

I wont be able to do much until next week but I'll keep you posted. Regarding the other question about replacement hubs... $50 cheapo, or the $100+ motorcraft?

 

[01yellercobra]

I want to say I found a Timken replacement online for about $50-$60.

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[Live Wire]

I want to say I found a Timken replacement online for about $50-$60.

Yep, found the Timken on Amazon Prime for $50. Only 9 reviews but all were 5 stars.

 

[CCS_56_EX]

I had this happen on a rear, and bought a tool that was like a socket, but instead of the square inner, it was round to perfectly fit a drill bit. The tool worked great and I had the lug nut off in minutes. However, I can't track down his website, but I was able to find the patent. The guys name is Brandon Cummings. I bought the tool by messaging him on YouTube, and it was maybe $50. Here's the patent link: https://www.google.com/patents/US20120000320

 

[Live Wire]

Thanks CCS, but I think I've exhausted my capabilities and it's time to take her to a garage and see what they can do.

As mentioned, I purchased a pair of "needle" nose vice grips from harbor freight and they did actually grab hold of the stud head, but couldnt keep a grip as I turned the lug. I was actually able to get my bigger pair of vice grips on her good, but even that wasn't enough to hold it while I turned. Here's a little visual:

Also, here's a scene from behind the wheel if you're curious what it looks like spinning back there.


I've been wanting to change out the rotors for a while so going to take the opportunity to replace the rotors when I replace the hub. Going with the AmercianMuscle Xtreme Stop drilled/slotted rotors and pads. Also going to go with the motorcraft hub-10 for replacement.

Cheers!

 

[Rich'sTRsvt]

I am guessing you don't have access to an impact wrench? I am sure it would take that right off with the vise grips on the back.

 

[Live Wire]

Come to think of it, I have an old cordless dewalt impact wrench that I've never used. Came as a freebie with my drill. But I'm pretty certain it's a fixed torque rating and probably strong enough for deck screws at best. I guess I can jack up the car this weekend and give it a shot.

Would like to spray some PB Blaster or WD40 in the lug well overnight to help things out... are these safe for the finish of the wheel?

 

[Live Wire]

No dice on getting this off. Had to take it to the shop to get the stud head tack welded. Guy said I cross threaded the stud which still amazes me this occurred so "easily". I'd have thought cross threading would have given more resistance when I was putting the lug on, but oh well, lesson learned.

Can't screw it off, snap it off.

 

[Soap]

I have a bunch of like new OEM studs if you need some. I am in the Motor City as well, let me know.

--Joe

 

[Live Wire]

I have a bunch of like new OEM studs if you need some. I am in the Motor City as well, let me know.

--Joe

Thanks Joe, but between the stripped splines, tack weld, and general beating I've put on this studd, I'm better off just replacing the hub.