Advance for turbo/centri/blower

Sleepinbeauty

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I still have not selected a power adder for my '99 Cobra and wish to run it normally aspirated for now. The setup I have has 96-98 intake cams, and 03/04 exhaust on 03/04 heads with a a 9.3-9.4:1 compression. My questions are: Can I set the advance on all the cams to zero after degreeing until I figure out the power adder? Will I be able to just advance the cams by removing the valve cover during the tune? Is there an appropriate advance to set the cams at now before adding the power adder? Obviously I am still in the process of researching how to degree the cams in case my knowledge seems very limited.

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01yellercobra

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You would need to pull the valve covers and timing cover. It's possible to degree the cams in the car, but it's gonna suck.
 

01yellercobra

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I guess what your saying is that I would have to degree the cams every time to set a new advance.
Yes. To do it right you need to degree them each time. Personally I'd figure out my plans and set them for that while it's on the stand.
 

Sleepinbeauty

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Yeah that's the trouble I'm having right now. I don't know a lot about cam phasing and advance and I'm still learning. I was kind of leaning toward just buying a supercharger or turbo charger kit. My main focus has been on the strengthening the bottom end. I have done nearly everything exactly like the aluminator gibtec build in modularfords.com as far as the long block goes. The only difference is that I am running a different oil pan and windage tray and pistons for a 9.2-9.4:1 compression. My power adder is going to be different and I'm not sure of it. (probably my biggest mistake from the get go because now people are dicks in the forums for my lack of knowledge and going into this not knowing this.) I've called Hellion and Vortech and I would call anyone that wanted to take my business and let me know what would be an appropriate advance to set while I'm in the degree process for the kind of power I would like to make with my setup with anyone of their setups that would work to do it. This has been a total pain in the ass. I think I'm only dealing with salesman. I don't think my setup is unique as nothing about these motors really is. How did anyone come about learning what the advance should be set on these cams?

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01yellercobra

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Your best bet would be to talk to NA SVT. He has a lot of knowledge about can selection. It's not just advancing or retarding the cams. The cams need to work with whatever combo you're going with. Hence why I said figure out your plans. Turbos and superchargers need different cams to work to their best potential.
 

Sleepinbeauty

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What is your feeling on my current longblock build? Is it a total wash? Is my goal still feasible with reliability being an obvious concern? I sent the message to "na svt" (I think that is the same person) today with the following specifications and goals.

Goal: I would like to make from 700 to 800 flywheel hp with whatever power adder that will get me there on pump gas.

Vehicle: 1999 Cobra
Transmission: Stock 5 speed, Ford racing flywheel, Excedy clutch
Rear Axle: Stock IRS with 3:27 gears
Exhaust: 2.5” off-road x-pipe, LM tail muffler/tail pipe, stock manifolds

Engine
Block: ’99 Teksid std . bore. honed with torque plate, line honed for ARP studs without windage tray, ARP side bolts
Crank: std.,std.
Pistons: 11cc dish Manley with Total seal rings ( had machine shop gap for turbo) for approximately 9.2-9.4:1 compression ratio
Connecting Rods: Manley H-beam with ARP 2000 bolts
Cylinder Heads: 03/04 DOHCs, new stock lifters, Brian Tooley Valve Springs, Stock Rockers, D’Agistino Cooling mod, ARP studs, stock retainers and keepers, stock valves, stock seats.
Cams: 96-98 intake, 03/04 exhaust
Valve Train: stock chains, stock guides drilled for 9 mm pivots, Cobra Engineering 9 mm pivots, Cobra Engineering Passenger side upgraded tensioner, Cloyes adjustable primary and secondary gears, ARP cam bolts
Oiling: MMR pan, Hurricane oil pump with provided pickup, MMR 8 quart pan, MMR oil pan gasket
Advance: undetermined

Induction: stock manifold, stock injectors, BBK cold air, stock MAS
Emissions: stock and untouched, I have the original stock catted h-pipe
Fuel: undecided, but I know I will need a return style setup with an 03/04 gas tank

Cooling
Oil cooler: original filled with spun rod bearing shavings from previous owner, undecided on replacement
Radiator: stock
Overflow: stock
 
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01yellercobra

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Seems decent to me. But I'm far from an expert. If you want 700+ on pump you should just go with a turbo. It'll be a lot easier to get there than with a blower. And this is coming from a blower guy.

A lot of guys delete the oil cooler. But I think I have the old one from my 01. It's never had metal go through it.
 

Sleepinbeauty

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I was thinking of purchasing a stock oil cooler just for running the car NA for a couple of months until the funds are available for the turbo setup. I've heard they are somewhat prone to leaking so I was going to just delete it and use the MMR adapter with a 1.75" water outlet. I wanted to then move the thermostat upstairs. This seems like a pretty common modification that is well endorsed.
 

Sleepinbeauty

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I finally figured it out from talking to a guy that will remain nameless from Accufab. Great dude. In my case, he was telling me since I didn't have pistons with valve reliefs to measure the PTV clearance and set the advance on the intake as far as I could. Possibly no more than 4 degrees. Better get pistons with valve clearance next time but hoping their wont be a next time. As far the exhaust goes make sure the center line is stock around 114 degrees.
 

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