Adj LCAs...Relocation Brackets necessary???

[NTXRockr]

I bought a BMR adjustable UCA and UCA mounting bracket, and have a set of BMR adjustable poly/spherical LCA's (tubular style) paid for and on the way. I plan on installing these next weekend with the goal to get rid of these terrible 1.9-2.1 60' times at the track. I wasn't intending on going with adjustable lowers as I already had the adjustable upper, but the price was too good to pass up so here I am plus they were the half poly, half spherical setup that I'm looking for to serve as a compromise between spherical strength and NVH-less poly units. As long as I can start cutting 1.7-1.8 or better 60' times without breaking poly inserts and not have a screaming differential sounds while driving down the highway, I'm good.

So, the plan was to install a set of BMR relo brackets at the same time (still debating on whether to weld in or not...) but now I'm wondering if I can't accomplish the same adjustments with the adjustable lower/upper arms as the brackets would? I understand the whole point of adjustable upper arms is to correct for pinion angle when lowering, etc, and that the relocation brackets adjust the arm angle when lowering OR for added traction.

I would still prefer to get the brackets and accomplish my goals that way (not to mention have just about every adjustment available to me), but do I need to spend the extra $160+ to get the brackets and then weld them in, or have I covered my bases with the adjustable lowers and can adjust pinion angle AND lower arm angle with the components I have already? Or am I totally off-kilter and am thinking about this all wrong, and I need to buy the brackets already??? I've been going through all the adjustments and angles in my head and theoretically it could work, but it's late - and it's Friday night - so I could be missing something critical (or completely obvious)...it seems like you need a post-grad degree in suspension to keep from screwing the geometry of these rear ends up to where they just don't find the groove and have a gremlin here or there, so that's why I'm asking for all of your opinions and any real-world experience with adjustable lowers.


One last thing, I'm running slicks (M/T ET Streets) at the track and am about to put 4.10s in, so the impact and abuse on the arms will only be getting worse in the future...especially if I put the nitrous kit on there very soon To make this problem go away easier, I'd love to buy a set of BMR relo brackets for a good price if anyone has some!!!

 

[jdcobra]

Well technically the re-lo brackets help get the lca's back in proper position if the car has been lowered. I have the bmr lca's and adjustable panhard without the re-lo brackets and it's made a night/day difference. When I get the upper control arm I will get the re-location bracket due the clunking noise that maybe present without an upgraded mount.

 

[Fun4me]

You definately can't accomplish what you are trying to do w/o the relo brackets.
It's simple, if your car is lowered and you want max traction, you need the brackets.
The adjustable LCA's cant help you w/ that, and you really don't want to mess w/ their lenght too much or at all.

If your not lowered, you really dont have to install the brackets at all. But they have been shown to improve traction. You can also put them in any time, as their install shouldn't mess w/ your pinion angle.

 

[scotmach]

Any reason you want to run 4.10's in your auto? If you think traction is a problem now, it's going to get much worst not to mention that extra shift into 4th which will slow you down.

 

[VETTEHUNTER]

Any reason you want to run 4.10's in your auto? If you think traction is a problem now, it's going to get much worst not to mention that extra shift into 4th which will slow you down.

^^^ This ^^^

Definitely thing long and hard about running 4.10's in an auto. I'm actually not liking the 3.73's in my 6-speed all that much at times.

And get the brackets...For $150 bucks its good to have the adjustability to get your set-up dialed in correctly.

 

[turbosha]

really?? i figured 4.10 would be a good choice for an auto. maybe if you went with 28" tires in the rear?
i mean my 3.31's pull good , i was thinking 3.55's but at $500 to have the gears changed and i dont like'em.... would suck.

 

[scotmach]

The first gear in the autos are 4.17's. Coupled that with 4.10's it makes for some tough traction. For roll racing and just all around fun on the street they're fine. If track times are important then 3.31's with a converter is the way to go.

 

[NTXRockr]

I run slicks on the track, so not too worried about traction issues there as I know it'll help me while n/a...now, once I decide to go with a power adder like a blower, I'll likely go back to 3.15 or maybe 3.31/3.55. And yes a converter is the way to go for better launches, but I'm still waiting to see test data on how much a converter helps vs. the cost of it and installing, etc.

As far as the adj lca's I'd prefer NOT to have them (they're primarily for adjusting the center of the wheels when installing an overly tall tire like 29", etc) but price won out this time...unless someone is needing a set of adj lowers and has a set of non-adj lowers that are half poly/spherical and wants to trade???

 

[NTXRockr]

Any reason you want to run 4.10's in your auto? If you think traction is a problem now, it's going to get much worst not to mention that extra shift into 4th which will slow you down.

To clarify, I DO NOT have traction issues such as wheel hop or spinning, but I'm not getting out of the hole as quickly as I'd like to and therefore I'm wanting the lower gears to help get up to speed quicker and into the power band sooner, not so much because I have traction issues as I'd agree that would be making things worse if I were spinning or hopping bad now.