a few more questions about my new car

jays03cobra

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first, when the car is started, should I be able to drive it almost immediately without it stalling? a/f is all over the place for a couple minutes.

second, is there a clutch out there that anyone has or knows about that wont chatter yet can handle over 600hp?

third, the tob is gone on the car. its the all too familiar noise that goes away when clutch is slightly depressed. isn't this something done when you install a new clutch?
 

Tractionless1

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first, when the car is started, should I be able to drive it almost immediately without it stalling? a/f is all over the place for a couple minutes.

second, is there a clutch out there that anyone has or knows about that wont chatter yet can handle over 600hp?

third, the tob is gone on the car. its the all too familiar noise that goes away when clutch is slightly depressed. isn't this something done when you install a new clutch?

1. Yes, get your tune checked.

2. Mcleod RST/RXT

3. Yes, get the FRPP bearing and Lethal Performance Sleeve. While you're there 26 spline D&D input shaft. Also grab a rear main seal just in case it's weeping when you get in there.
 

1Kona_Venom

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If you dont wanna ballup for a twin disk as mentioned a Spec 3+ with soft pedal option will work, its what I run.

Agree with #1 and #3 above
 

04cobra88

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I'm also going to upgrade to the 26 spline input and am looking for a good clutch 900 seems so steep for the McLeod rxt but I guess you pay for what you get
 

jays03cobra

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I'm also going to upgrade to the 26 spline input and am looking for a good clutch 900 seems so steep for the McLeod rxt but I guess you pay for what you get

theres a group buy or special price going on right now. if I remember correctly it was a lot less than 900.

also I did have the tune checked and he claimed it was ok and he wouldn't touch it. somehow though I got the impression he wasn't interested in doing it. gonna try another local tuner/mustang guy on Friday.

would coils also cause this to happen?
 

testorossa1989

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rxt is the way to go. I believe i paid 840shipped to my door with a lethal promotion.

If you are savvy with the wrench and have a garage i would do a 26 Spline / RXT/ LP input sleeve/ FR tob and PB. All the work isnt overly difficult if you have a moderate knowledge of tolerances and know your way around a garage. Could save yourself well over $1,000 in shop fees.

Plenty of great writeups on here for those upgrades.
 
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jays03cobra

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rxt is the way to go. I believe i paid 840shipped to my door with a lethal promotion.

If you are savvy with the wrench and have a garage i would do a 26 Spline / RXT/ LP input sleeve/ FR tob and PB. All the work isnt overly difficult if you have a moderate knowledge of tolerances and know your way around a garage. Could save yourself well over $1,000 in shop fees.

Plenty of great writeups on here for those upgrades.

unfortunately this isn't me. I can do small things but to attempt to mess with a car like this...nah. id screw something up. decided to take it for a ride tonight. it seemed ok under wot, although I seem to always smell something in cab after getting on it hard. not entirely sure what it is either. had it in 4th gear at 80 mph and it seemed to hiccup just a tad. I could definitely feel it. pissing me off I took it to a tuner and he said it was fine when I know damn right well it isn't :fm:

taking it to another guy tomorrow. really wish I knew wtf is causing it to rough idle on startup. after its warmed up it seems to run at 14.5 to 15 for a/f. im guessing whatever is causing that has to be the same reason why it starts kinda hard once in a while.
 
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itSSlow98

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Just do a 26 spline and rxt and never look back. For your rough idle and stumbling id pull the plugs and see what they look like.
 

Bdubbs

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If your on a tighter budget, I'd recommend a promotion clutch. Mines rated to 550hp, very light pedal feel. I do have some chatter in 1st gear and reverse unless I up the rpm's a bit.
 

jays03cobra

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Decided to buy a updated tuner. Also changing under drive pulley. It's too big and is causing me to run at 22lbs of boost which is too much on pump gas. I want this car to last. With that said say goodbye to my Hp numbers.

I'm a little aggravated with a certain tuner in my area. The sob knows how serious I am about my cars and having shit done right, yet instead of putting it on the dyno first and figuring out my boost was too high, he changed my alternator pulley and put a new belt on. So now I'm paying for another new belt. Why can't people be forthcoming? I have no problem spending the money to get it done right to begin with. Not to mention this other guy picked right up on the way the CAI and homemade elbow were installed. It may be possibly letting air in which could cause my hesitation problem or rough idle.

Sad part of all this is each one bashes the other. Another thing. I believe a good shop will monitor specialty forums like these. My reason for this is sometimes there really are some great ideas and finds on here from do it yourself mechanics. When I walk into a shop and a guy totally dismisses killer chiller without ever seeing it, there's a problem. I'm not saying I love the setup but it does do what it says its suppose to do. Bottom line!! Ok I'm done ranting. Getting really pissed off at my local shops. I guess next time ill head out to a real enthusiast work shop.
 

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