So periodically my car would stall out after a clutch application slowing down to a stoplight or even holding down the clutch too long between shifts. Became real annoying and difficult to pin down to the problem.
After doing all of the tps voltage checks and all the other normal routines posted on all the forums I had to go outside the box and tried a few different things and found a solution that has cured my problem and may help some others.
First thing to check to see if your problem is the same as I had, while the car is idling and at running temps unplug your IAC valve and see where your idle goes to. My car dropped to about 300 rpm and I believe the issue lies in the IAC doesnt have enough time to correct the low idle before it stalls.
The process I took to adjust everything to work was
1. Unplug the Iac and read what the Throttle body itself is idling at.
2. Shut the car off and and turn the TB adjust screw located underneith the throttle cable linkage counter clock wise to extend the screw against the stop. Do not turn the screw very far as a little can go a long way and this step is easily repeatable.
3. Restart the car and make sure you have not exceeded the cars commanded rpm range set in your tune.
4. unplug the Iac again and check what the idle rpm goes to. I have had great success so far having the rpm set 50-100 rpm less on the TB than on the IAC controlled rpm.
5. Once you have achieved the idle you desire you need to check your TPS voltage to make sure that the new voltage is in between .95 and .99 volts. With the harness plugged into the sensor you will be probing the bottom and middle wires. I find that bobby pins or paper clips cut in half easily slides down the wire to back probe the sensor without damage to the wires.
6. Once you have everything set up where it is running good, unplug the ground from the battery for 20 mins and I prefer to turn the headlights on at the same time to draw out charge and reset the PCM quicker.
7. Reattach battery and start the car and run up to temperature and you should notice that the small idle surges are gone and that dreaded clutch stall has disappeared.
I am not positive but it seems as though when my blower was shipped that the TB linkage stop was bent away from the stop but for sure the previous owner turned the screw all the off the stop leaving the IAC to compensate for the full idle.
I hope this helps out some guys with this issue with the clutch stall as it is a pain in the ass and hard to diagnose as you cannot see the screw underneath the TB.
After doing all of the tps voltage checks and all the other normal routines posted on all the forums I had to go outside the box and tried a few different things and found a solution that has cured my problem and may help some others.
First thing to check to see if your problem is the same as I had, while the car is idling and at running temps unplug your IAC valve and see where your idle goes to. My car dropped to about 300 rpm and I believe the issue lies in the IAC doesnt have enough time to correct the low idle before it stalls.
The process I took to adjust everything to work was
1. Unplug the Iac and read what the Throttle body itself is idling at.
2. Shut the car off and and turn the TB adjust screw located underneith the throttle cable linkage counter clock wise to extend the screw against the stop. Do not turn the screw very far as a little can go a long way and this step is easily repeatable.
3. Restart the car and make sure you have not exceeded the cars commanded rpm range set in your tune.
4. unplug the Iac again and check what the idle rpm goes to. I have had great success so far having the rpm set 50-100 rpm less on the TB than on the IAC controlled rpm.
5. Once you have achieved the idle you desire you need to check your TPS voltage to make sure that the new voltage is in between .95 and .99 volts. With the harness plugged into the sensor you will be probing the bottom and middle wires. I find that bobby pins or paper clips cut in half easily slides down the wire to back probe the sensor without damage to the wires.
6. Once you have everything set up where it is running good, unplug the ground from the battery for 20 mins and I prefer to turn the headlights on at the same time to draw out charge and reset the PCM quicker.
7. Reattach battery and start the car and run up to temperature and you should notice that the small idle surges are gone and that dreaded clutch stall has disappeared.
I am not positive but it seems as though when my blower was shipped that the TB linkage stop was bent away from the stop but for sure the previous owner turned the screw all the off the stop leaving the IAC to compensate for the full idle.
I hope this helps out some guys with this issue with the clutch stall as it is a pain in the ass and hard to diagnose as you cannot see the screw underneath the TB.
