A/C recharging and various questions

[Midnight_Cobra]

Hey gents,

So I installed my Killer Chiller awhile back and it does work, just not as well as I hoped. So I want to work a little on my A/C charge. My intercooler fluid temps are around 70*, which isn't as good as some of the 40-50 degress I've seen on the internet. I tried the servicing with the single gauge and a can setup with ES-12 and the low side pressure is around 40 +/- depending on temp. In cab cooling is around 65-70*. I also have the blue orifice tube.

I'm going to replace the accumulator and I want to vacuum the system. And use the 2 gauge setup with A/C hoses and such, because if some of you remember my previous threads I kept blowing an A/C freon line because the Killer Chiller fitting wouldn't work because of my aftermarket radiator so I had to make my own. I could have moisture in the system and too much oil in the system or other variables. Everything works fine with no leaks but I know my freon level/oil/moisture is off.

My question is when I vacuum it, does it suck all the PAG oil out, so I will have to add the 4-6oz or whatever it is? I want to try and do this myself with ES-12, if I can't do it...I'll just suck it up and have a shop do it with R134. If anyone has done this is ES-12 and wants to give their input I'd appreciate it.

It sucks having this Killer Chiller and not really being able to enjoy it in this hot weather.

 

[RichM1983]

I can only help a little. I had to completely redo my AC this spring.

I put the oil in then vacuumed the system 2 or 3 times chasing a leak. None of the oil vacuumed out. So you'll have to disconnect lines and drain it, which is a bitch on some of the lines. As for moisture from what I found you need to replace this: https://lmr.com/item/YF2981/1996-04-Mustang-46L-Air-Conditioner-A-C-Accumulator to because it has a desiccant in it and anytime the system is open the moisture in the air can ruin that. So a new on is a good idea. I shopped around and found a cheaper one but can't remember where. Also to get get the moisture out once your done working on the system vacuum it for 30 minutes, longer if you can.

I took my whole system out except for the part in the firewall/dash and cleaned it all and replaced the orifice tube, the compressor, the accumulator, and the condenser. I used regular 134-A though. That was the only way I could ensure I had the right oil amount, no moisture, and a clean dry system.

 

[John M]

you will only get the oil out of the system that is line and or the the high spots the machine cant suck the the oil through the low spots, as for adding oil a specific amount is needed per unit ( comp, cond etc), I m not positive but I believe it ends up in the accumulator as it works like a (catch can) and or separator. putting a vaccum on the system is the only way to go also a lot faster filling the system. as for looking at the system not cooling enough and from what you have said I would look at the whole system, evacuate the system see how much there is and form there, the extra oil could be the culprit and or the comp being old and worn

 

[*Jay*]

You need more than one can, the amount will vary but when you are filling you need to stop at approximately 37-38 pounds on the low side. The high side will be the number that will depend on the ambient outside temp. If you cant reach the correct poundage on either side that means you have an issue, you can google and find an AC troubleshooting chart for help.

I have tried higher and lower than 37 pounds, with and without the HE offline the best I can get with all new components is vent temps around 50 degrees while cruising on an 85 degree day. Right now that is with ~37 pounds, the HE offline, all of my coolant lines and resevoir insulated and all new AC components except for the heater core.

I dont think I have a blue orfice tube but my AC still has a hard time keeping my cabin cool. Dont get me wrong, IAT2 temps are much better now but my cabin cooling has definitely taken a hit. Also remember that your IAT2 temps will rise as you are cruising and wont drop down until you open up the throttle and the sensor gets more frigid IC resevoir fluid to cool it down.

Your IAT2 temps will always read higher than your resevoir temps actually are. You can use stick thermometers to compare your resevoir vs vent vs IAT2 temps, I was using an IR thermometer but was getting false low readings on the vents. Go for a drive and check all your fan setting vent/IAT2 temps, write your numbers down, park, pop your IC resevoir cap and check your resevoir temps. You can do this with the car off or still running but the AC needs airflow for optimal cooling. So the resevoir temps will rise the longer you are parked.

 

[cj428mach]

I've never used a low end machine but on our machines at work it catches the oil that it sucks out everytime it vacuums. As long as you clean vacuum system of oil before running a vacuum then it allows you to see how much oil was pulled from that vacuum.

 

[Black Gold 380R]

I just redid the system on my 99 Contour. The little vacuum pump I had did NOT vacuum out any PAG oil and it did get down to almost 30 pounds of vacuum. I replaced everything except the evaporator since it was under the dash. My system works great, but depending on the outside temp determines how cold it gets. On hot days (100 or above) the system cools down to 60 at idle and then down to 50 when driving. When the outside temp is 90 or below it cools to 50 at idle and then gets down to 40 while driving. VERY comfortable at 40 in the cabin on those days LOL. Also, my climate is very dry. Your system may work different since you're in MS and probably have a lot of humidity.

Here is a chart I found that tells you how much R134 to put in your system so you do not over charge it. According to this chart our Cobras should take about 34 OZ. of R134 (I have no experience with ES-12).

http://www.m-m-s.com/ackits_public/files/r134acapacities.pdf

I have the dual gauge kit. I did not really pay too much attention to the high side as it varies depending on outside temp. However, my low side would go up to about 50 and then the compressor would shut off and then kick back on and it kept doing that in it's normal cycle.

 

[Midnight_Cobra]

I was going to replace the accumulator, vacuum it out, then service with ES-12 to 37psi on the lowside from the suggestions.

I really don't want to take off all my lines and stuff to clean and purge the oil out, I guess I'm just confused on if I should add oil or not...because I don't know how much oil is in my system currently.

 

[John M]

Some machines measure how much oil is removed with the ac when your evacuating the system ( I like Robin Air) your still not going to get all the oil in the system out, unless you take the time and remove the cond, comp, etc and measure how much you drain out per part, every part takes a certain amount of pag oil when replacing, you said you had a line that blew off and I'm guessing you did lose oil and moisture is definitely in the system, which line blew off? from that you could take a guess to how much to try JMO I would add an ounce maybe and have the sytem evacuated and recharged with R-134a and try it moisture being in the system can cause your problems