A/C compressor clutch failing - replaceable by itself?

[DuffManRHA]

While driving back from work a few days ago I smelled a burning odor and could hear a squealing sound coming from under the hood. Thankfully it wasn't a spun bearing or otherwise super-serious problem, but this is what I found on my A/C unit :

Here is a vid of it actually moving :


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Is this repairable without having to replace the entire AC compressor itself? To my somewhat untrained eye it looks like there are supposed to be nuts/caps on those two "studs" on the front of the unit, as you can see there is still one on there out of the three spots for them. The A/C does still actually work although I've stopped using it for the time being just in case, but not using it in summer here in North Carolina is NOT my idea of fun :fm:

Thanks SO very much for any help anyone can provide!

 

[006]

Here are instructions I bookmarked on replacing it:

Ford Mustang A/C Compressor Clutch

and here is a replacement:
New AC Compressor Clutch Ford Mustang Cobra Mach 1 GT 03 2003 V8 4 6L | eBay

Seems fairly straight forward.

 

[VirtualSVT]

Yeah the only thing is that if got hot enough it could have damaged the seals right behind it and you could start leaking.

 

[desertt5]

I was hoping for the same thing. But found out my compressor was frozen. Ebay compressor that lasted 11 months. The bubbled / cracked paint on the clutch was from trying to turn the locked compressor. Hope your turns out cheaper than mine did.

 

[shurur]

1999 Mercury Grand Marquis AC Clutch Replacement - YouTube

 

[blacksheep-1]

Very easy job..go for it

 

[DuffManRHA]

So sorry for not replying back, but I literally have not been on a computer for the past week and a half from working everyday; I didn't want to be thought of as ungrateful or ignoring any advice or info.

Has anyone done this and had it last as long as the factory one did? Also, besides a failure of the seal(s) behind the clutch, can actually attempting the work damage something beyond just the clutch and actually cause more work and more of a headache?

Like I said before, the A/C actually still works great and is able to be turned on and off - it's really just the plate that moves around that is rattling and making the noise.

To those wondering re: that connector on the sway bar that is disconnected, it is the factory oil pressure switch that I grounded to the car to keep the ECU/dash happy so I could use that spot for my real oil press gauge.

 

[VirtualSVT]

wait so the a/c works still? Swap that bitch out.

 

[spray'n mach 1]

So sorry for not replying back, but I literally have not been on a computer for the past week and a half from working everyday; I didn't want to be thought of as ungrateful or ignoring any advice or info.

Has anyone done this and had it last as long as the factory one did? Also, besides a failure of the seal(s) behind the clutch, can actually attempting the work damage something beyond just the clutch and actually cause more work and more of a headache?

Like I said before, the A/C actually still works great and is able to be turned on and off - it's really just the plate that moves around that is rattling and making the noise.

To those wondering re: that connector on the sway bar that is disconnected, it is the factory oil pressure switch that I grounded to the car to keep the ECU/dash happy so I could use that spot for my real oil press gauge.

when the compressor lets go they send metal shavings into the system and they get caught in the condenser, evaporator, expansion tube and accumulator. the accumulator and expansion tube will need to be replaced everything else flushed out. even if you just replace the compressor, go ahead and replace the exp tube and accumulator these items don't last forever and they affect your a/c effectiveness. goodluck

 

[shurur]

Motorcraft YB 3040 A C Clutch Hub | eBay

AC clutch hub
YB-3040