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99 GT starting in Road Racing
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<blockquote data-quote="David Hester" data-source="post: 5997724" data-attributes="member: 6794"><p>I didn't look through all the posts, but the problem I've seen is ALL rotors will develop heat cracks. On the A/Sedan car I don't worry too much about them, but will replace them before next race weekend. BTW, heat checking is the little 1/4-1/2" cracks that will develop where the pads meet the rotor surface. Not a big deal. When they get more than 1/2" or so, I start to worry. With the drilled rotors, the cracks will go from hole to hole with BIG gaps where the holes are, holes that are only an inch or so a part..so 1/2" in either direction hole to hole and BINGO you have connecting dots and can actually see the cracks in the holes. Bad things happen just too quick after that. </p><p>Old Sebring, when it had the hairpin, was 130-140 flat out and then hard braking to maybe 20 for the right hand hairpin. One 30 minute practice session and I had stress hairline cracks. (On pit lane rotors were 900+ degrees <em>after</em> cool down lap.) When I came in after qualifying, I had visible cracks from hole to hole. I put the car on the trailer.</p><p>Tire rack rotors work fine, as do the best rotor Advance or NAPA has for the old LX I had. (Bendix, BTW). On the A/Sedan I use .81" x 12.19 Wilwoods on a Wilwood aluminum hat. <img src="http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-Rotors/003-HD/hdpic.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /> I can get pretty much 4-6 race weekends out of a pair on the fronts and they are only about $40 each. Rears last all season.</p><p>On the breaking in, on the racecar that only takes about 25 minutes.</p><p>I'm lucky I live pretty much in the middle of nowhere. I make a couple of 55-10mph slow downs-<strong>hard</strong> on brakes, but not skidding or anything..NOTE I DO NOT STOP. Tell you why a minute. This is where you will smell the brakes. I'll drive another mile to cool some and make a couple of 65-10mph hard slow downs. REALLY smelly now.</p><p>Another mile and I'm at the Tennessee River. This time I make one hard slow down from .......I take the fifth... and THEN drive <em>55</em> for about 3 miles with no brakes at all to cool everything off. There is a resturant lot I can turn around in and 9 times out of 10 there is no traffic so I don't have to touch brakes. Don't do this in town with lights or cross streets. Trick is not touch brakes, except for the bedding in process.</p><p>Back 3 miles to the river and I'll slow down and pull over, not touching the brakes again. Just roll to a stop. If I get out and measure, rotors will show about 150-200 degrees, still. Easy ride back to the house and pads/ rotors are ready for practice laps the next race weekend.</p><p>The reason for doing all this is so you don't heat shock crack the pad OR rotor.</p><p>Wanna see? drop an ice cube in a glass of water at room temperature. </p><p>The heating slowly and cooling allows a layer of pad to spread over the rotor, just like seasoning a pan to cook with.</p><p>If you hold brake to a complete stop, you will deposit a hot pad shaped blob on the rotor. This leads to "warped" rotor syndrome as you feel the lump everytime the pads go over it.</p><p>Oh and have fun at your event!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="David Hester, post: 5997724, member: 6794"] I didn't look through all the posts, but the problem I've seen is ALL rotors will develop heat cracks. On the A/Sedan car I don't worry too much about them, but will replace them before next race weekend. BTW, heat checking is the little 1/4-1/2" cracks that will develop where the pads meet the rotor surface. Not a big deal. When they get more than 1/2" or so, I start to worry. With the drilled rotors, the cracks will go from hole to hole with BIG gaps where the holes are, holes that are only an inch or so a part..so 1/2" in either direction hole to hole and BINGO you have connecting dots and can actually see the cracks in the holes. Bad things happen just too quick after that. Old Sebring, when it had the hairpin, was 130-140 flat out and then hard braking to maybe 20 for the right hand hairpin. One 30 minute practice session and I had stress hairline cracks. (On pit lane rotors were 900+ degrees [I]after[/I] cool down lap.) When I came in after qualifying, I had visible cracks from hole to hole. I put the car on the trailer. Tire rack rotors work fine, as do the best rotor Advance or NAPA has for the old LX I had. (Bendix, BTW). On the A/Sedan I use .81" x 12.19 Wilwoods on a Wilwood aluminum hat. [img]http://www.wilwood.com/Products/002-Rotors/003-HD/hdpic.jpg[/img] I can get pretty much 4-6 race weekends out of a pair on the fronts and they are only about $40 each. Rears last all season. On the breaking in, on the racecar that only takes about 25 minutes. I'm lucky I live pretty much in the middle of nowhere. I make a couple of 55-10mph slow downs-[B]hard[/B] on brakes, but not skidding or anything..NOTE I DO NOT STOP. Tell you why a minute. This is where you will smell the brakes. I'll drive another mile to cool some and make a couple of 65-10mph hard slow downs. REALLY smelly now. Another mile and I'm at the Tennessee River. This time I make one hard slow down from .......I take the fifth... and THEN drive [I]55[/I] for about 3 miles with no brakes at all to cool everything off. There is a resturant lot I can turn around in and 9 times out of 10 there is no traffic so I don't have to touch brakes. Don't do this in town with lights or cross streets. Trick is not touch brakes, except for the bedding in process. Back 3 miles to the river and I'll slow down and pull over, not touching the brakes again. Just roll to a stop. If I get out and measure, rotors will show about 150-200 degrees, still. Easy ride back to the house and pads/ rotors are ready for practice laps the next race weekend. The reason for doing all this is so you don't heat shock crack the pad OR rotor. Wanna see? drop an ice cube in a glass of water at room temperature. The heating slowly and cooling allows a layer of pad to spread over the rotor, just like seasoning a pan to cook with. If you hold brake to a complete stop, you will deposit a hot pad shaped blob on the rotor. This leads to "warped" rotor syndrome as you feel the lump everytime the pads go over it. Oh and have fun at your event! [/QUOTE]
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