thanks guys. i have another questiom. i have 2 tone interior. my dasboard is mocha brown including the console, except for the armrest part (the lid part), which is tan like the rest of the car. is that normal or custom?
99 contour svt questions
- Thread starter Jay
- Start date
It's normal...
Hey, This is my first post, but I know what you are talking about with the CE light. More than likely it is a clogged main cat-which is under an 8year/80,000 warrenty. I just had mine replaced by ford at no charge. The "bogging" you are experiencing sounds like your secondaries are not opening up. This can be caused by an over heating IMRC. When the car boggs, does the sound of the exhaust remain the same throughout the revs? You should be able to hear a noticeable difference at about 3750 rpms. As for the shifting, mine has always been smooth and with no problems. hope this helps.
{pet peeve on}
Please folks!
If you DO NOT know the answer then do not respond with one. All it does is perpetuate misinformation!!! :cuss:
{/pet peeve off}
"Supposedly" the early 2.5L Duratecs were susceptible to oil starvation when the engine was at high rpm (above 5000) and in very hard and prolonged right hand corners.
This was never a "proven" fact. It was just an decent "assumption" based on several collective failures under the same circumstances. Some owners even (finally) owned up to saying they probably had low oil levels to begin with!!! (I.E. self induced)
Since this assumption first surfaced many years ago parts of it have been disproved while other areas have been confirmed.
The oil system on any Duratec is outstanding. You'd be hard pressed to find a better setup on a race engine.
With that said you'd be hard to find an oil filter that is rated higher than the stock oil pump (with 1 exception: K&N) This can contribute to oil being bypassed at rpm levels above a mere 4000 rpm. Therefore drastically raising oil temps and falsely raising oil pressure. (both bad!)
Now the only flaw on the early Duratecs in the lack of the extra oil drainage holes in the heads. (Like all 3L's and the new 2.5L's have) This can lead to oil pooling in the heads at very high rpm levels.
Running 6-6.25qt of Mobil 1 with a K&N filter is great preventative maintenance for all of that.
The DMD is a EUROPEAN part (Now Finally available in the US from the dealer if you know the part number) from the new 2.5L engine.
IT NEVER WAS FROM THE MAZDA 6's 3L DURATEC ENGINE!. Yes the new 6's version of the Duratec uses a DMD, but like all other 3L's the FEAD is completely different as is the front cover.
The DMD will reduce destructive crank whip and quell 2nd and 3rd order crank harmonics. All of huge benefits to engine longevity and "theoretically" better power production due to less power being lost the parasitic whip & drag.
Please folks!
If you DO NOT know the answer then do not respond with one. All it does is perpetuate misinformation!!! :cuss:
{/pet peeve off}
"Supposedly" the early 2.5L Duratecs were susceptible to oil starvation when the engine was at high rpm (above 5000) and in very hard and prolonged right hand corners.
This was never a "proven" fact. It was just an decent "assumption" based on several collective failures under the same circumstances. Some owners even (finally) owned up to saying they probably had low oil levels to begin with!!! (I.E. self induced)
Since this assumption first surfaced many years ago parts of it have been disproved while other areas have been confirmed.
The oil system on any Duratec is outstanding. You'd be hard pressed to find a better setup on a race engine.
With that said you'd be hard to find an oil filter that is rated higher than the stock oil pump (with 1 exception: K&N) This can contribute to oil being bypassed at rpm levels above a mere 4000 rpm. Therefore drastically raising oil temps and falsely raising oil pressure. (both bad!)
Now the only flaw on the early Duratecs in the lack of the extra oil drainage holes in the heads. (Like all 3L's and the new 2.5L's have) This can lead to oil pooling in the heads at very high rpm levels.
Running 6-6.25qt of Mobil 1 with a K&N filter is great preventative maintenance for all of that.
The DMD is a EUROPEAN part (Now Finally available in the US from the dealer if you know the part number) from the new 2.5L engine.
IT NEVER WAS FROM THE MAZDA 6's 3L DURATEC ENGINE!. Yes the new 6's version of the Duratec uses a DMD, but like all other 3L's the FEAD is completely different as is the front cover.
The DMD will reduce destructive crank whip and quell 2nd and 3rd order crank harmonics. All of huge benefits to engine longevity and "theoretically" better power production due to less power being lost the parasitic whip & drag.
wow thanks for answering all ym questions.
the problem with the bogging was the fuel pump and the ce light is no longer on. the salesman said it was because the fuel filter was dirty and clogged. most likly the original. anyways, the CE light is no longer on and the car runs excellent and looks excellent. i also have a good warranty on it too for the next 4 years/50k miles. next week i am tkaign it to a ford tech that i know at a different dealer and having him look it over.
the problem with the bogging was the fuel pump and the ce light is no longer on. the salesman said it was because the fuel filter was dirty and clogged. most likly the original. anyways, the CE light is no longer on and the car runs excellent and looks excellent. i also have a good warranty on it too for the next 4 years/50k miles. next week i am tkaign it to a ford tech that i know at a different dealer and having him look it over.
That salesman is a bonafied jackass.
i think all salesman are jackasses.
by the way does anyone know any other good contour svt forums (like this one) and csvt webpages
by the way does anyone know any other good contour svt forums (like this one) and csvt webpages
Last edited:
chknhwk
New Member
www.contour.org
Check out the forums.
Demon, an independent test was performed on a 2.5L Duratec and with the factory recommended oil amount, at 5k rpms only .5 quarts of oil was in the oil pan. I think that's a serious oiling issue that can contribute to oil starvation.
Yes, your recommendations will alleviate this mostly I just thought I would throw that in and ask this:
What other ways can you tell us that the oiling on the Duratec is better than race engines?
I am in no way calling you out - your posts are ALWAYS informative. I'm asking because I'm curious and this may help with my current oiling dilemma.
(actually that should be )
Check out the forums.
Demon, an independent test was performed on a 2.5L Duratec and with the factory recommended oil amount, at 5k rpms only .5 quarts of oil was in the oil pan. I think that's a serious oiling issue that can contribute to oil starvation.
Yes, your recommendations will alleviate this mostly I just thought I would throw that in and ask this:
What other ways can you tell us that the oiling on the Duratec is better than race engines?
I am in no way calling you out - your posts are ALWAYS informative. I'm asking because I'm curious and this may help with my current oiling dilemma.
(actually that should be )I agree about hearing the info on the oil level testing. I actually got an email about before it was posted on the forums.
This test definitely showed that the lack of extra oil drainage was a bad design. (something I mentioned earlier along with the fact it has been "fixed" on the new heads)
5.5 qts of oil was used along with a stock Motorcraft filter (which BTW is only tested to a mere 3gpm when the oil pump pushes more than 11gpm at 6k - hmmm)
5.8qts is total fill per the service manual.
This is also why 6-6.25qts is the "recommend" fill.
Actually my dipstick has always shown 6qts to read full. I run 6.25qts of Mobil 1.
Another thing of note is that the dipstick has been changed at least 2 times as well. Each time it required a little more oil to reach the full mark.
This definitely is a key point.
However think about it this way. How many folks check their oil level regularily. (And I truly mean a lot!)
All it takes is for you to burn half a quart of oil from the "original" (read early manuals) 5.5qts and you are dangerously low on oil at high rpm levels now...
As for the oiling system. Here is a great paraphrase of a quote by a respected tuner when talking about building a single turbo 2.5L Duratec (which made 450+ HP on it's first pull BTW :coolman: ) Ken Duttweiler.
"It's designed like an efficient valve body. It's very ingenious and reliable" He also fawned over many of the Duratec's design properties. (Like stating "it was the most over engineered engine he'd ever seen - strength built into it everywhere")
Anyway... A few key points.
The pump is run directly off the crankshaft (1:1 ratio) This uses basically no power at all.
Also the pickup tube is an immense .9" I.D. This means the oil will fill the tube and not hole in the middle do to over pressure at the tip. (common problem)
It also has a shuttle valve for a bypass.
Then there is the fact the pickup sit in a mini sump inside the pan itself.
This test definitely showed that the lack of extra oil drainage was a bad design. (something I mentioned earlier along with the fact it has been "fixed" on the new heads)
5.5 qts of oil was used along with a stock Motorcraft filter (which BTW is only tested to a mere 3gpm when the oil pump pushes more than 11gpm at 6k - hmmm)
5.8qts is total fill per the service manual.
This is also why 6-6.25qts is the "recommend" fill.
Actually my dipstick has always shown 6qts to read full. I run 6.25qts of Mobil 1.
Another thing of note is that the dipstick has been changed at least 2 times as well. Each time it required a little more oil to reach the full mark.
This definitely is a key point.
However think about it this way. How many folks check their oil level regularily. (And I truly mean a lot!)
All it takes is for you to burn half a quart of oil from the "original" (read early manuals) 5.5qts and you are dangerously low on oil at high rpm levels now...
As for the oiling system. Here is a great paraphrase of a quote by a respected tuner when talking about building a single turbo 2.5L Duratec (which made 450+ HP on it's first pull BTW :coolman: ) Ken Duttweiler.
"It's designed like an efficient valve body. It's very ingenious and reliable" He also fawned over many of the Duratec's design properties. (Like stating "it was the most over engineered engine he'd ever seen - strength built into it everywhere")
Anyway... A few key points.
The pump is run directly off the crankshaft (1:1 ratio) This uses basically no power at all.
Also the pickup tube is an immense .9" I.D. This means the oil will fill the tube and not hole in the middle do to over pressure at the tip. (common problem)
It also has a shuttle valve for a bypass.
Then there is the fact the pickup sit in a mini sump inside the pan itself.
thanks for the info guys. i wish i could change my fluids at my apt. building but it is strictly forbidden so i have to take it some place, should i just put in an extra quart when i get it back or ask them to do it for me? also, k and n oil filters were mentioned earier. are they worth it? how are the mobil 1 filters?
I always tell them to put six quarts in... I didn't know about K&N
oil filters. I will start using them too. I like K&N...
I think you'll find the CSVT is a better all around package than the SHO. You'll miss the Yamaha. You won't miss the SHO brakes. Twisties are what the CSVT lives for...
Good choice on the CSVT. We have a fleet of them.
98.5 CSVT Silver Stock
92 SHO Red
00 Cougar V6/5 sp Stock (Wife's Pretty Kitty)
00 CSVT Green Stock Daughter
00 CSVT Red Modded Son
87 Grand National Modded Son (Beast)
oil filters. I will start using them too. I like K&N...
I think you'll find the CSVT is a better all around package than the SHO. You'll miss the Yamaha. You won't miss the SHO brakes. Twisties are what the CSVT lives for...
Good choice on the CSVT. We have a fleet of them.
98.5 CSVT Silver Stock
92 SHO Red
00 Cougar V6/5 sp Stock (Wife's Pretty Kitty)
00 CSVT Green Stock Daughter
00 CSVT Red Modded Son
87 Grand National Modded Son (Beast)
Last edited:
chknhwk
New Member
Thanks Demon!
Just ordered a remote oil filter kit and oil cooler so hopefully I'll get my oiling issues figured out.
Good luck on the Contour! You'll love it, trust us!
Just ordered a remote oil filter kit and oil cooler so hopefully I'll get my oiling issues figured out.
Good luck on the Contour! You'll love it, trust us!
thanks. i will def ask them to put in an extra quart. i love the csvt so far. it is really smooth acclerating too. i will have pics soon. i just need to find some tiwsty roads
what times do the svt contour run 1/4 mile times
what times do the svt contour run in th 1\4 mile
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