98 Redemption build

[Crucible03]

The start of a redemption story. Decade ago pulled the motor and started a build, went on pause cause life for 5 years, bought some upgrades, went back on pause...

I got to timing it before I bagged it. Didn't do the best job and today I've got a bit a surface rust here n there so I'm gonna tear it back down and start clean again. Keeping this "budget" build with using what I decided as a kid. The first challenge is finding all the other parts...

.020" forged internal kit from SHM
Port & polished B heads, upgraded all the head internals but been so long can't remember exactly what I bought.
Comp cams stage3 blower cams
Paxton blower
Among others

Here's how she sits today

There's a little surface rust on the chain tensioners, crankshaft weights, iron parts etc so I'm tearing it back down and start clean. I plan on leaving the heads timed until the internals are put back in.

I think I'm going to buy all new timing set, it's pricey but I don't think I can't trust reusing what I have.

The other thing that bugs me is a hairline crack in 1 cam retainer but I never see it in any diagrams. Maybe it's no big deal but it's apart and cracked...

I'm also confused why I didn't paint the block the first go so that'll prob get a black coat and the valve covers a red to match the car

Disassembly to begin in the next week

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[SVT GI]

Looks like a well put together motor. ARP everywhere, cam bolts, studded, etc. I would put the $400+ for a new timing set elsewhere, there’s nothing wrong with what you have except those plastic primary tensioners. I’d put the iron ones back in. You can get them from Rock Auto for about $70. You also have the primary guides ( the swing arm ones) on the wrong sides. Need to swap them, pay attention to the relation of the beveled opening and the dowels. You should see the beveled hole on the R side.

I’d also not paint the block, it’s aluminum, it dissipates heat. Same reason you don’t see people painting aluminum heads.

That part of the cam cap isn’t integral, you can have a shop weld it up or send it as is.

 

[Crucible03]

Thanks, nice eye. I should say this was/is my first engine build.. I used arp where I could, worth it. The stock bolt is in the crank in the pic but I have a new arp one waiting. I thibk the exhaust

I saw the kit with the iron tensioners on mmr on Friday for $395, kicking myself for not buying. Hope Christmas will see the same sale, saves a couple bucks

While I'm kicking myself here's the other 2 maybe bonehead moves I did way back

- I removed the tubes in the lower manifold. Trying to replicate something like a sheet metal manifold, planned to put stubby cones in the ports. Maybe it's salvageable

- I took a dremel to the throttle body and gutted the divider. I can't find it at the moment but it looked like the accufab one a friend had

As for parts, please recommend other upgrades I should consider. Here's more of what I got

Machined imrc deletes
Spec clutch & flywheel
Kooks headers
Qtp cutouts
Innovators west overdrive HB

Going to spend this week dunking rusted parts in evaporust...

Is there a complete stainless bolt kit? Found this one but been out of stock forever. Would save me some time at the wire wheel

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[96dreamer]

If you still have the tubes for the lower intake there's no harm done. You can cut the bell mouths off and reweld them up 2-3" to make a short runner. Other wise it isn't really good for much. Even putting a short tube with belled end would be a extremely short runner creating peak power higher than would be useful for nearly any setup.

 

[Crucible03]

More goodies

Billet fuel rails
Oil pan & arp bolts
Water pump
Apparently bought oil pump gears, trigger happy kid..
Billet crank pulse wheel

I think I have new injectors somewhere around here. The car had an inline fuel pump installed when I bought it w the paxton blower

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[Crucible03]

If you still have the tubes for the lower intake there's no harm done. You can cut the bell mouths off and reweld them up 2-3" to make a short runner. Other wise it isn't really good for much. Even putting a short tube with belled end would be a extremely short runner creating peak power higher than would be useful for nearly any setup.

I'll have to look, hopefully they with my throttle body

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[04DeadShort]

I found a few places awhile back that had a stainless kit option. I have yet to try these companies. ProWeld has a ton of info on their site but I have never heard of them.

Ford Modular 4.6L Stainless Engine Bolt Kit with Steel Oil Pan

http://www.proweldperformanceparts.com/id179.html

 

[mysteed]

This should be a solid build when done. ProWeld has a few really good put together stainless bolt kits that several friends have used.

 

[Crucible03]

Thanks for the links, proweld looks money.

To my surprise looks like I kept most parts together

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[96dreamer]

If the blower has been sitting a while without being rotated I would be sure to open it up and check for rust on the gears. I bought one that still had the inspection tag from paxton on it but it had sat so long without being rotated there was some minor pitting starting to form on the gears. I was able to polish it out with a brass wire wheel and all has been ok since then.

 

[SVT GI]

You can’t go wrong with Proweld for your hardware, I’ve used them a lot.