98 Cobra starts but dies immediately - Help needed

5.0calypso93lx

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I am officially stuck :)

I've got a 98 Cobra that I recently built an engine over the winter. The full details can be found in my build thread on here, but a quick recap:

98 Cobra
-4.6 4v Teksid block with forged bottom end
-DB Casting C heads with 98 Cobra Cams
-Mach 1 Intake manifold with adapter plate running stock upper lid and stock TB
-COP swap (went back to stock coils and plug wires to eliminate the COP's. Zero difference going back to plug wires)
-Fore fuel rails with Fore FPR
-JLT CAI with stock MAF (and SCT BA 5000 MAF, I've tried both)

That's all I can think of at the moment.

What the car is doing:
-I did break the clock spring and have an airbag light (new one is enroute). Because of this car would initially not start. Just cranked and cranked. Tuner sent me a revised tune file with the PATS turned off and the car will now do what I have typed below
-Will crank and lightly hit but won't start 9 out of 10 times
-Every great once in a while the car will hit, start, rev up to 3k (sounds amazing) but then immediately dies. This makes me think there's no mechanical issue with cam timing, etc (had all brand new OEM timing components installed by a very well-known, pro local engine builder that has done a ton of these)
-I, at one point, was able to get the car running with the MAF unplugged for about a minute, but it eventually died
-Plugs are covered in fuel. They were brand new.
-White smoke coming out of tailpipe after cranking car that overwhelmingly smells of fuel. Car will backfire loudly every now and then like there's a ton of unburnt fuel in the exhaust that ignites
-I have the battery ground cable going down to the driver motor mount stud and then from there to the brake line bracket on the driver side. Verified with a multimeter that I have .9-1.2 ohms when I touch the alternator housing and the battery ground pole

The car ran and drove before I did the built motor over the winter. It was down on power, but it ran and idled. Has a brand new 255lph stock style (funky 98) fuel pump and new fuel filter.

I have to be missing something. What should the vacuum lines look like? What should the grounds look like? Any other suggestions?
 

01yellercobra

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My first thought was vacuum leak when you said it revved to 3k. I'm wondering if you have multiple issues going on.

First thing is make sure you have constant spark. Wet plugs either mean no spark or too much fuel. If you have good spark then you have too much fuel. Did you change injectors? Which MAF was it running on previously? Stick with that MAF. Running a MAF the car isn't tuned for will only add to the issues.

Check for vacuum leaks. Since you're running a mix of intakes do you have the IAC hooked up correctly?
 

5.0calypso93lx

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My first thought was vacuum leak when you said it revved to 3k. I'm wondering if you have multiple issues going on.

First thing is make sure you have constant spark. Wet plugs either mean no spark or too much fuel. If you have good spark then you have too much fuel. Did you change injectors? Which MAF was it running on previously? Stick with that MAF. Running a MAF the car isn't tuned for will only add to the issues.

Check for vacuum leaks. Since you're running a mix of intakes do you have the IAC hooked up correctly?
Appreciate the response!

No change to injectors. Running stock 24’s that I had in the car running last year.

Same with the MAF. Went back to the stock MAF and the car does the exact same thing.

IAC hose goes to the JLT intake tube just like stock.
 

5.0calypso93lx

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761B5FC2-3FB9-48E2-ADE1-4CEA9418083A.jpeg
 

slow98cobra

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What’s your fuel pressure at the rail?

My first thought was an injector change as well but you already mentioned it being stock. I’m wondering if you have something going on at the regulator. Just a thought.

What happens if you unplug the IAC and try to start? Then give it a 1/4 throttle while unplugged and try to start?
 

5.0calypso93lx

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What’s your fuel pressure at the rail?

My first thought was an injector change as well but you already mentioned it being stock. I’m wondering if you have something going on at the regulator. Just a thought.

What happens if you unplug the IAC and try to start? Then give it a 1/4 throttle while unplugged and try to start?
29-30psi key on, 40psi while cranking. From
What I’ve seen that should be correct. I did have a buddy suggest backing that down a bunch to see if it runs better that way?

I will try the iac piece. What does essentially do when unplugging the IAC?
 

5.0calypso93lx

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What’s your fuel pressure at the rail?

My first thought was an injector change as well but you already mentioned it being stock. I’m wondering if you have something going on at the regulator. Just a thought.

What happens if you unplug the IAC and try to start? Then give it a 1/4 throttle while unplugged and try to start?

So Im almost embarrassed to say (not that it changed much) but I had the fuel pressure set with the vac hose on. But the biggest thing was the IAC. I unplugged the IAC and the car immediately fire right up and idled the longest it ever has. Now what’s weird is that it will only idle with the MAF unplugged as well. But I let the car idle for a good 5 mins like that.

I’m super happy to have the car finally start and idle. But idk what is up with the car only running / idling with the MAF and IAC unplugged?

Appreciate the suggestions!
 

slow98cobra

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I’m glad to hear there is some progress!

Unplugging the IAC is a good way to test its functionality. I’m no expert but I believe when it is unplugged, it is completely closed. It’s sounds like you may have a little issue with it and it may be worth either trying to clean it or replace.

I would ask your tuner what fuel pressure they are expecting with the tune and try to dial in from there with the regulator. I’m not sure what they are expecting with vac attached/unattached. I would also check your FPDC reading on your hand held if available. It has been quite awhile since I tinkered with the fuel system on the 98 so can’t recall if they have a fuel rail pressure reference sensor and if that is failing or has a misreading between the pressure it is expecting and what the sensor is telling it, it cranks up the PSI. Don’t think so because that is mainly returnless but I believe the 98 fuel system was a little different than standard return.

On the MAF, I would put back on the one before you did the build but I would go buy some MAF sensor cleaner. It may be that it some how got dirty or has some debris in it. It almost sounds like the elements are not heating up so it thinks there is a ton of air crossing the sensors tricking the computer to give it more fuel.

Just a couple thoughts. Let us know how it works out!
 

5.0calypso93lx

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I’m glad to hear there is some progress!

Unplugging the IAC is a good way to test its functionality. I’m no expert but I believe when it is unplugged, it is completely closed. It’s sounds like you may have a little issue with it and it may be worth either trying to clean it or replace.

I would ask your tuner what fuel pressure they are expecting with the tune and try to dial in from there with the regulator. I’m not sure what they are expecting with vac attached/unattached. I would also check your FPDC reading on your hand held if available. It has been quite awhile since I tinkered with the fuel system on the 98 so can’t recall if they have a fuel rail pressure reference sensor and if that is failing or has a misreading between the pressure it is expecting and what the sensor is telling it, it cranks up the PSI. Don’t think so because that is mainly returnless but I believe the 98 fuel system was a little different than standard return.

On the MAF, I would put back on the one before you did the build but I would go buy some MAF sensor cleaner. It may be that it some how got dirty or has some debris in it. It almost sounds like the elements are not heating up so it thinks there is a ton of air crossing the sensors tricking the computer to give it more fuel.

Just a couple thoughts. Let us know how it works out!

Again, thanks so much for all the help!

I actually have two IAC's. An older Motorcraft piece and a new aftermarket piece. What's weird is if I plug the connector in on the motorcraft iac that's bolted to the upper intake lid the car dies immediately. If I plug the connector in on the aftermarket one while just holding it in my hand the car does nothing different and continues to run. Makes me think the Motorcraft IAC bolted on the lid is doing something.

The MAF is the stock MAF that I ran on the car last year and one the car ran fine with. I will give it a good cleaning regardless.

Tuner is expecting 40psi with the vac hose unplugged so I've now got that dialed in exactly.

The 98's do not have a rail pressure sensor. My Fore rails have the provision for it, but I actually had to buy a blockoff plate to close the hole on the rail. The difference with the fuel system on the 98 is that Ford went to the bucket style variable voltage fuel pump in the tank, but still used a true return system.

I got another good suggestion about opening up the throttle body blade screw a touch as the TB should be slightly open
 

cobracide

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An Aeroforce gauge will read TPS directly.


 

5.0calypso93lx

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where is your valve cover lines going? are you sure they arent leaking?

I have them both routing to a catch can on the passenger side. I will double check them, but I am 99% sure they are good. They are going to a baffled can with a filter on top so isn't that essentially a big leak in itself?
 

decipha

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its only a leak if your evacuating the crankcase elsewhere otherwise thats not a leak if its just being dumped to atmosphere

thats free power your giving away though

make sure your tuner knows everything youve changed on the vehicle from when it was running before til now. It could be a little detail yall are overlooking.

Did you change the inlet piping any?
 

5.0calypso93lx

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its only a leak if your evacuating the crankcase elsewhere otherwise thats not a leak if its just being dumped to atmosphere

thats free power your giving away though

make sure your tuner knows everything youve changed on the vehicle from when it was running before til now. It could be a little detail yall are overlooking.

Did you change the inlet piping any?
Nope, same JLT CAI.

Went to a pals house over the weekend and even with him forgetting to plug a nipple on his intake lid his car still ran and idled albeit really high at like 2k. I can't even get mine to do that :)

I've started doing some other troubleshooting and I'm just not finding any real problems. Started probing around at my sensor wiring and checking several of the plugs for proper power. TPS is showing 5.0 volts, IAT is showing 4.55 volts and the MAF is showing battery voltage which is all correct.

At this point I think it has to be something that needs to be diagnosed via a log. The car is just getting way too much fuel with the MAF plugged in and it won't run. It's just tough to get a log when the car won't run :lol:
 

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