Hi everyone im new on here i just picked up a sn95. i just bought it for a toy. 69k original miles needs some work paints faded, drivers seat base needs a new bottom and the steering wheel needs a rewrap. body is straight with no rust except for very minor surface rust on a spot where the paint just came off 1 inch by i inch square on rear fender. car has sat for about 8 yrs. i turned it over by hand a few times to make sure it wasn't seized. had oil in it and oil was changed right before parked. i added 2 gallons of 87 to tank and she cranked for about 10 seconds before lighting off. I may be changing lifters if i cant get the tick to go away. quiet at idle but if u bring it off idle up from there to about 1800 to 2k it has what sounds like lifter noise. engine runs smooth if you past that point no noise and no noise at idle after a few seconds. i believe it also still has the intake manifold runner valves. anyone have any ideas for me. if it was a lifter or engine issue i would think i would have the noise through out all rpms. i just bought 10 qts of mobile 1 5-30 to swap out. yes i know owners manual says 6 qts. cheaper to buy 10 then to worry about the extra expense next oil change. anyonw reccomend putting 5 qts mobile one and maybe last quart marble mystery to try and clean it out run it for a few days and change the oil again?
96 svt cobra
- Thread starter Riverboy460
- Start date
Glad you found a cool toy! The lifter tick may be a bad valve seat or head gasket on #7/8 there is a coolant dead end issue on all modulars, but it's much more common on the 4V cars. Sounds like a lifter tick. I've been there a few times before. I've have a 96, and a 2001 stuffed into a 98 vert and I had the same problem on the 98 Cobra I sold off.
Cars that have sat for multiple years develop all sorts of issues. Consider using an engine flush with your existing oil/filter and running it per the directions and then changing to your Mobil 1 with a fresh filter.
I am sure you know this, but that engine needs 91+ octane gas.
The IMRC system engages at 3250 rpm. If you drive it and rev above 3K, you should feel a mild kick of acceleration when the IMRC opens the secondary ports. If the car bogs at 3250 rpm, then you have dirty IMRC plates (most likely) or a dead/malfunctioning IMRC controller (less likely, despite internet opinion).
Congrats on the purchase. I'll be replacing all the lash adjusters here shortly. I've got a ticking at idle that goes away after it warms up, and I've already overhauled the timing components. I'll be cleaning the secondary intake valves while everything is apart.
Congrats! And welcome to the site.
thanks everyone for the responses. I had ent played with the ar much its been taining. bought it from a customer I was helping do some work at there house. he said it was running warm. I went to change thermostat yesterday and only got a gallon or less of coolant out. there was nothing in the cross over tube so I hope the ticking sound is not from a blown head gasket. car has sat for 8 years. I'm going to fill with ford coolant today or this weekend and run the car see what happens. I also installed a new stock ford thermostat. how ad are head gasket jobs on these cars if I need to do one? I'd like to also put a stage one or 2 cam set in along with a tune. looking for a fun fast toy.
I'd almost bet that someone didn't know how to properly bleed the coolant system on the car. The process involves removing a bung on the crossover tube that is... reluctant to let go.
vicious I bet your right. even I removed the plug the other day when I replaced the thermostat. it was a pain. I ended up torching it with my propane torch for a few seconds to help break it loose. I definitely will be using a little antisieze kn this little burger to add in help of removal next time.
Do yourself a favor and get an aftermarket crossover plug with a hex head. You can find them on ebay or from MMR.
can anyone tell me what sensor controls the temp gauage in the dash. is it the single line one that's on drivers side or 2 wire one in passenger side. my gauge is way below the cold mark and does not move. I tried gounding the single wire last night with o luck with movement on the gauage. figured the 2 wire one on passenger side is for 5 volt reference to pcm. this is the 96 cobra motor. also anyone know the troubleshooting steps or where to find the diagram I'm ew to this forum. thanks matt
So, according to the 97 manual, it's the single wire sensor to the right (as long as I'm reading the diagram correctly).
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vicious thank you for that. that's what I thought it was. I have auto enguity scan tool with he ford bundle since I own 2 powerstroke vehicles and a explorer. what's weird is i can get temp to show up on scan tool. I'm pretty sure my gauge is bad I replaced the sender today with oem ford part I got at dealership. I also removed the wire and used my meter to read the voltage of the plug and it was matching my computer diagnostic reading. the fans never turn on and I know they work. I tan the low speed and high speed fan via my tests through scan tool. ac never comes on either just blower motor when I trim max ac amd heat setting. I bought the car had no battery and wasnt ran in 8 yrs. I fixed the tick it had. I took apart the gauges and found one screw loose so someone was I there before. I moved the gauage needs into the gauge working area and as soon as I turn accessory on gauges goes backward way under the cold. it's weird bot sure what causes this. ita a learning process. I ordered tires at a cost of juat under 600 for potenza as. I hope I didnt make a mistake. I want this car to be fun ut thi k I need to find a place that can repair a 96 gauage cluster. pretty sure the gauage for water temp is bad. or I could run a automated gauage in its place but prefer the oem one.
Here's the diag page for the coolant temp. Take what you will from it, but it does lay out how to check the gauge and the circuit for correct values.
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