Just don't have the tires yet. Didn't even have a chance to bolt them on yesterday. Thought I would tease you guys a little... 
oke:
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93 Cobra Repro. wheels are at my house...
- Thread starter 93Cobra#2771
- Start date
And I'm already working on lining up some 5.0 axles, just in case.
Oh, and it looks as if my rearend isn't quite centered side to side. Favors the passenger side by about 1/2" or so. Haven't done any official measurements, though, so I'm unsure if 1/2" is a valid number.
Hell, I'm not even sure where to check for valid measurements - I'll prob. try hard chassis points like upper or lower control arm mounting points, or something like that.
Oh, and it looks as if my rearend isn't quite centered side to side. Favors the passenger side by about 1/2" or so. Haven't done any official measurements, though, so I'm unsure if 1/2" is a valid number.
Hell, I'm not even sure where to check for valid measurements - I'll prob. try hard chassis points like upper or lower control arm mounting points, or something like that.
Do you think 245s will rub on a replica wheel? Where could I get some and about what price range would they be in?
Check the upper contol arms closely.... they are what sets the side to side of the rear axle. I use to own a 88 Coupe that had an upper control arm bushing come lose . The bushing/shell actually slid over in the control arm itself causing the rear end to shift to the right almost an inch.
As far as a quick check, I would measure outside wheel lip to the qtr. panel lip and also the inside lip to inner fender well on both sides.
As far as a quick check, I would measure outside wheel lip to the qtr. panel lip and also the inside lip to inner fender well on both sides.
Hmm, great idea, Daryl. Rearend is DEFINITELY shifted to the passenger side, at least 1/2", maybe closer to 3/4". And, I've had a rattling noise coming from the driver side area, that I attributed to a tailpipe possibly hitting. Have a feeling it may well be a control arm bushing.
Bolted the wheels on last nite, sans tires. Passenger side - No way will it work, Drivers side, it is about right. So, if I get my rearend shifted back in place, I suppose neither will work right... :lol:
Wheels are beautiful, paint is perfect. Center caps are pretty much identical in appearance, and they look as if they will fit the OEM rims.
The hub part of the wheel (that slides over/centers on the axle) appears to be slightly bigger in diameter. In other words, the hole through the center of the wheel is about 1/8" bigger than the OEM rim. Looks like a shank type lug nut might be a better choice to keep the wheel centered, although the acorn type would prob. still be OK.
Man, it's amazing how much bigger the wheels look than stock.
I'm trying to score a set of 5.0 length axles, either stock or hardened. Hopefully I can get some for cheap. I've decided I don't want to risk modding the wheel to make it fit. Just not worth it to save a few bucks. It would SUCK to break a freaking wheel if I ever hooked up on a decent launch. I'm planning on drag radials, so it should hook decent.
Anyone got any 5.0 axles they want to send me?
Bolted the wheels on last nite, sans tires. Passenger side - No way will it work, Drivers side, it is about right. So, if I get my rearend shifted back in place, I suppose neither will work right... :lol:
Wheels are beautiful, paint is perfect. Center caps are pretty much identical in appearance, and they look as if they will fit the OEM rims.
The hub part of the wheel (that slides over/centers on the axle) appears to be slightly bigger in diameter. In other words, the hole through the center of the wheel is about 1/8" bigger than the OEM rim. Looks like a shank type lug nut might be a better choice to keep the wheel centered, although the acorn type would prob. still be OK.
Man, it's amazing how much bigger the wheels look than stock.
I'm trying to score a set of 5.0 length axles, either stock or hardened. Hopefully I can get some for cheap. I've decided I don't want to risk modding the wheel to make it fit. Just not worth it to save a few bucks. It would SUCK to break a freaking wheel if I ever hooked up on a decent launch. I'm planning on drag radials, so it should hook decent.
Anyone got any 5.0 axles they want to send me?
Well, it's kind of hard to say for me at the moment. My rearend has shifted ~3/4" to the passenger side (I suspect Daryl may be right on the upper control arm bushing). I'm basically at a stand still until I figure that part out.
Looking at the DS with the wheel on, the offset is just about perfect. However, when I get the rearend centered back up, I have a feeling it's going to be too close.
To give you an idea how much my rearend is off, with my stock wheels, I'm surprised that my tires haven't been rubbing my fender lip...
Don't worry guys, I'll keep you informed of my progress...
Looking at the DS with the wheel on, the offset is just about perfect. However, when I get the rearend centered back up, I have a feeling it's going to be too close.
To give you an idea how much my rearend is off, with my stock wheels, I'm surprised that my tires haven't been rubbing my fender lip...
Don't worry guys, I'll keep you informed of my progress...
when you say "stock 5.0" axles, i assume you're talking about stock length GT axles, right?
if so, then you can use any old 4-banger 7.5" Axles. They are EXACTLY the same peices as the 5.0 ones. I dont have any first hand experience with this, so you might want to research it a bit more, but thats what i've heard/read.
if so, then you can use any old 4-banger 7.5" Axles. They are EXACTLY the same peices as the 5.0 ones. I dont have any first hand experience with this, so you might want to research it a bit more, but thats what i've heard/read.
5LiterMustang said:
You are correct... the 7.5 and 8.8 use the exact same axle. I use 4 banger axles in 8.8 all the time since the 4banger axles are usually in perfect shape while the 8.8 ones are chewed up by the bearrings from all the hard driving they see. In fact my 5.0 LX ran on stock 4cyl axles for 5 years (well over 300 passes) running low 12's on slicks w/1.60 60ft's and they never broke or twisted.
Well, that certainly helps narrow my search down. Glad you said that about the lugs, as I was not aware of that (although I suspected something)...
And the verdict is...
Well, did some pretty careful measuring last night. My rearend is off center by about 7/8" toward the passenger side. I suspect the DS lower control arm bushing is shot, but I'm still unsure until I tear into it a little further.
Anyhow, I did some math and measuring, to see where the wheels would fall if the rearend was PERFECTLY centered from side to side. Here is what I found:
Using a level, with the wheels mounted on the car (no tires), rearend supported by jackstands, the outer lip of the wheel lands almost perfectly in the center of the fenderwell lip. Again, this is in the perfect world if the rearend is perfectly centered. BTW, I recently saw a thread on the corral.net where people were talking about their off center condition - anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4" offset one way or another.
As my car sits right now without ANY recentering of the rear end, the passenger side rim sticks out past the outer edge of the fender by 1/4", and the DS rim is inside the outer edge of the fender by about 1.75".
So, to sum it up: If your rearend is perfectly centered, they MAY work, according to height or size of your tire. However, be aware that you may need to roll the fenders to avoid problems. IMHO, rolling the fenders will be a requirement to be truly safe, and if your rearend if off center by even 1/4", one side WILL not work. So, I guess I'm recommending doing the axle conversion to fit the rims.
Sucks, but at least the cost isn't super bad. I'm already trying to round up a set of axles, and I plan on getting the northracecars brackets for the calipers. It'll take a while to get everything I need - heck, I don't even have tires for it, yet. I figure I can get get used axles for 20-50 bucks, plus 130 or so for the brackets. So I should be able to get by for under 200 bucks. Still sucks, but better than looking ass with wheels sticking out too far.
Well, did some pretty careful measuring last night. My rearend is off center by about 7/8" toward the passenger side. I suspect the DS lower control arm bushing is shot, but I'm still unsure until I tear into it a little further.
Anyhow, I did some math and measuring, to see where the wheels would fall if the rearend was PERFECTLY centered from side to side. Here is what I found:
Using a level, with the wheels mounted on the car (no tires), rearend supported by jackstands, the outer lip of the wheel lands almost perfectly in the center of the fenderwell lip. Again, this is in the perfect world if the rearend is perfectly centered. BTW, I recently saw a thread on the corral.net where people were talking about their off center condition - anywhere from 1/2" to 3/4" offset one way or another.
As my car sits right now without ANY recentering of the rear end, the passenger side rim sticks out past the outer edge of the fender by 1/4", and the DS rim is inside the outer edge of the fender by about 1.75".
So, to sum it up: If your rearend is perfectly centered, they MAY work, according to height or size of your tire. However, be aware that you may need to roll the fenders to avoid problems. IMHO, rolling the fenders will be a requirement to be truly safe, and if your rearend if off center by even 1/4", one side WILL not work. So, I guess I'm recommending doing the axle conversion to fit the rims.
Sucks, but at least the cost isn't super bad. I'm already trying to round up a set of axles, and I plan on getting the northracecars brackets for the calipers. It'll take a while to get everything I need - heck, I don't even have tires for it, yet. I figure I can get get used axles for 20-50 bucks, plus 130 or so for the brackets. So I should be able to get by for under 200 bucks. Still sucks, but better than looking ass with wheels sticking out too far.
If the rear axle has to be centered so perfectly to make it work, be sure and not take turns very hard, because the rear axle can easily move left and right under load 1/2".
Bah, what's 1/2" among friends?
It's funny, I found this out because my upper control arms would hit my exhaust pipes when I was haulin' through turns. :-D I guess a panhard bar would solve this.
Lee - are you sure it wasn't your tailpipes shifting a little bit?
Regardless, a panhard bar would solve it, as there isn't room for tailpipes over the axle with one..
Regardless, a panhard bar would solve it, as there isn't room for tailpipes over the axle with one..
Ha! Good point Richard. Which is moving? The exhaust or the axle? I wonder if both weren't moving because I tried to move the exhaust around and it seems pretty stiff and I couldn't get enough movement to contact the upper control arms so I figured both were moving.
93Cobra2771 said:Lee - are you sure it wasn't your tailpipes shifting a little bit?
Regardless, a panhard bar would solve it, as there isn't room for tailpipes over the axle with one..
im sure the exhaust sways a bit but really its the axle thats doing most of the movement. thats why its called a live axle. i do have a MM. pan hard bar on my car and thats what i came here to write about. now im not saying go out and buy one so you can run these wheels, but during the install/setup of the bar i measured and located my axle perfectly centered. if you've ever driven a car with a P.H.B. you'd know what i mean by this...you can feel how the axle isnt moving side to side anymore. the axle and chassis feel like there one (unlike stock). the car is obviously soooo much more controlable its not funny. (i need a torque arm so that id really be set, its coming, cant wait
)and yes certain tailpipe do fit with a P.H.B. to my knowledge the stockers,flowmaster, and (what i have-) dnyomax pipes all fit, at least with a Max. M. PHB.
Richard how do you think the wheels would fit on a lowered car?? i think mines like a 1" to a 1 1/2" lower. :shrug:
i planned to roll the fenders regardless, IF i buy these. (man i worried about the 12 year old paint chipping though)
thanks for taking the time to write all this up here and on the corral. :thumbsup: :beer:
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