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The Terminator
Turbo Cobras
9 Sec Turbo Setup?
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<blockquote data-quote="Digital" data-source="post: 8061961" data-attributes="member: 66214"><p>My numbers are estimated, It's really meant to say 700-900 hp&tq but u cant put dashes so i just put it in tq. My car isnt finished yet but I base most of my facts on others that have similiar setups.</p><p></p><p>On the note about the price if you do it right you can easily make that setup happen within 15k if you price things properly. You could do it for probably less then 7 if you hunt up good used deals. Just takes a lot longer going that route.</p><p></p><p>As far as the fuel system is concerned the better drivibility on a return system the more expensive the kit. You're looking at around 3k for so for a solid return system and sometimes they dont drive around town very well.</p><p>You're looking at around the same price for a returnless setup, lines, rails, pumps, hat, fpdm, and all. Obviously if you wanted to take it over 900 i'd say stick with return but returnless can handle 800-900, people have been doing it with KBs with nitrous long before turbos came around.</p><p></p><p>I'm going to clear up a little bit of the misconception about turbos and compound setups, so pay attention.</p><p></p><p>The 03/04 is essentially a mach1 with better goodies (300rwhp) with a eaton making 8-9#s of boost (375rwhp).</p><p>When you take the eaton off you've taken away 1/4 of the cars hp that it can use to spool the turbo. This has two effect, first off it makes it so you need more boost (read as bigger turbo) to get the power, and second you'll encounter more lag with the bigger turbo you go with.</p><p></p><p>If you have a engine making 200hp it's going to spool a turbo a lot slower then a engine making 500hp. Turbo size matching is also key. People stick 76mm turbos in cobras and make 600rwhp and wonder why they go into full boost at 5k rpm. The turbo isnt matched for your power expectations.</p><p></p><p>Using this theory if you're already making 400-450rwhp (slightly over-spun eaton) you only need to make 300-350rwhp (goal being 750rwhp) with the turbo. That's a LOT less hp to make up then if you started with 100-150 LESS hp. This being the case you will only need a mid 60mm turbo to get you that power and have the turbo be in its peak power level. The added bonus to using a smaller turbo is obviously the decreased turbo lag time.</p><p></p><p>I'm going to just throw fake numbers out there, none of these are real but they are within the realm of generals number for what I'm talking about.</p><p></p><p>Lets say the terminator engine makes 300rwhp stock. The eaton increases that by 75rwhp. Now you put a modest pulley on it and increase that by almost double, 125rwhp. You're making 425rwhp now. That's 425 hp pushing on your exhaust.</p><p>Now lets say you have a 76mm turbo, nothing fancy just a regular ol 76. The "peak operating" level of this turbo will give you 600rwhp ADDED hp. and would spool at 3500rpm. So with our setup if we fully utilised this turbo we would have 425+600 for 1025rwhp. Now are we going to be making that? no. We want to make 750. So we have 275 WASTED hp potential.... So why go 76? Lets try another size..</p><p>Lets say we use a 67.. Lets say the 67 makes 425 PEAK hp potential and spools at 2500rpm. Now we 425+425 = 850. Now that's much closer to the number we want to be at. And we have dropped 1000 rpm spool time.</p><p>Hopefuly that logic makes sense. Now obviously these numbers arent all 100% but they are fairly close, and this is all based upon a compound setup. You would INCREASE the spool time GREATLY the less hp you have to start out with obviously.</p><p>As an example the 67 spooling at 2500 would probably change to atleast 4000-4500, but you'd make the same power more or less because of the PEAK potential.</p><p></p><p>Some may argue well.. at 4k rpm I'm in my powerband after 1st gear, and this is very true.. but on the street you don't drive at 4k rpm.. you drive around 2k.. which is where you will see turbo lag all day long.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Digital, post: 8061961, member: 66214"] My numbers are estimated, It's really meant to say 700-900 hp&tq but u cant put dashes so i just put it in tq. My car isnt finished yet but I base most of my facts on others that have similiar setups. On the note about the price if you do it right you can easily make that setup happen within 15k if you price things properly. You could do it for probably less then 7 if you hunt up good used deals. Just takes a lot longer going that route. As far as the fuel system is concerned the better drivibility on a return system the more expensive the kit. You're looking at around 3k for so for a solid return system and sometimes they dont drive around town very well. You're looking at around the same price for a returnless setup, lines, rails, pumps, hat, fpdm, and all. Obviously if you wanted to take it over 900 i'd say stick with return but returnless can handle 800-900, people have been doing it with KBs with nitrous long before turbos came around. I'm going to clear up a little bit of the misconception about turbos and compound setups, so pay attention. The 03/04 is essentially a mach1 with better goodies (300rwhp) with a eaton making 8-9#s of boost (375rwhp). When you take the eaton off you've taken away 1/4 of the cars hp that it can use to spool the turbo. This has two effect, first off it makes it so you need more boost (read as bigger turbo) to get the power, and second you'll encounter more lag with the bigger turbo you go with. If you have a engine making 200hp it's going to spool a turbo a lot slower then a engine making 500hp. Turbo size matching is also key. People stick 76mm turbos in cobras and make 600rwhp and wonder why they go into full boost at 5k rpm. The turbo isnt matched for your power expectations. Using this theory if you're already making 400-450rwhp (slightly over-spun eaton) you only need to make 300-350rwhp (goal being 750rwhp) with the turbo. That's a LOT less hp to make up then if you started with 100-150 LESS hp. This being the case you will only need a mid 60mm turbo to get you that power and have the turbo be in its peak power level. The added bonus to using a smaller turbo is obviously the decreased turbo lag time. I'm going to just throw fake numbers out there, none of these are real but they are within the realm of generals number for what I'm talking about. Lets say the terminator engine makes 300rwhp stock. The eaton increases that by 75rwhp. Now you put a modest pulley on it and increase that by almost double, 125rwhp. You're making 425rwhp now. That's 425 hp pushing on your exhaust. Now lets say you have a 76mm turbo, nothing fancy just a regular ol 76. The "peak operating" level of this turbo will give you 600rwhp ADDED hp. and would spool at 3500rpm. So with our setup if we fully utilised this turbo we would have 425+600 for 1025rwhp. Now are we going to be making that? no. We want to make 750. So we have 275 WASTED hp potential.... So why go 76? Lets try another size.. Lets say we use a 67.. Lets say the 67 makes 425 PEAK hp potential and spools at 2500rpm. Now we 425+425 = 850. Now that's much closer to the number we want to be at. And we have dropped 1000 rpm spool time. Hopefuly that logic makes sense. Now obviously these numbers arent all 100% but they are fairly close, and this is all based upon a compound setup. You would INCREASE the spool time GREATLY the less hp you have to start out with obviously. As an example the 67 spooling at 2500 would probably change to atleast 4000-4500, but you'd make the same power more or less because of the PEAK potential. Some may argue well.. at 4k rpm I'm in my powerband after 1st gear, and this is very true.. but on the street you don't drive at 4k rpm.. you drive around 2k.. which is where you will see turbo lag all day long. [/QUOTE]
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