89 gt mustang

[camaross0002]

is this car worth the money

Can you guys tell me if this is worth the money. I have taken it for a test drive and the horsepower is there. The previous owner had a race built motor put in with a vortech supercharger and alot of other mods. The paint has some rock chips on the front and interior just needs some cleaning. The previous owner has 1/4 mile slips of high 11 low 12.
I was thinking of offering them 12k for the car.

http://www.corvettecollection.com/search-detail.cfm?ID=269

Your opinions are greatly appreciated. Also this car is a gift to my father. He took it for a test ride and loves it. If I buy this for him it will be the first ford he has ever owned.

 

[cobra4v]

Personally myself...I would never pay 12,000 for a fox body no matter what has been done to the car. If it was a 93 cobra, it would be a great deal. But it is up to you since your dad really likes it.

 

[acrod]

Ya way too much in my opinion. Save yourself the money. Nice car though.

 

[1995COBRA-R]

No way I'd offer anywhere close to that.

1) It's been raced and driven hard. Race motor? forged crank and rods or? You should do some serious checks on the motor: leak down tests, compression check, etc. What shape are the heads in (you did check 'em?)?
2) Drivetrain? A car with 75K miles needs alot of suspension work: Bushing, balljoints, shocks/struts, etc.
3) Stock tranny? With that much HP? It is ready to blow.
4) Needs painting
5) Body: has it been wrecked? You did check all the seems to be sure nothing has been fixed from it's previous 15 years? All ser# match as well as date codes?
6) S/C's are very expensive to have rebuilt. How are the bearings and seals?

If all of the above checked out, I'd offer $5K.

 

[poopnut2]

Originally posted by 1995COBRA-R
No way I'd offer anywhere close to that.

1) It's been raced and driven hard. Race motor? forged crank and rods or? You should do some serious checks on the motor: leak down tests, compression check, etc. What shape are the heads in (you did check 'em?)?
2) Drivetrain? A car with 75K miles needs alot of suspension work: Bushing, balljoints, shocks/struts, etc.
3) Stock tranny? With that much HP? It is ready to blow.
4) Needs painting
5) Body: has it been wrecked? You did check all the seems to be sure nothing has been fixed from it's previous 15 years? All ser# match as well as date codes?
6) S/C's are very expensive to have rebuilt. How are the bearings and seals?

If all of the above checked out, I'd offer $5K.

What the f#ck? $5,000 wouldn't buy the motor and the blower in that car? $5,000 would be a great price for a bone stock 5.0 with that many miles on it.

I don't think it's worth $12,000, I'd say $9,000, maybe $10,000 if EVERYTHING power in it works, and he can provide receipts for everything the motor has.

 

[ampstang]

You can't even sell an '01 GT for their asking price.

 

[FuryShift]

That's because they know some dummy will pay that for it.

 

[1995COBRA-R]

Originally posted by poopnut2
What the f#ck? $5,000 wouldn't buy the motor and the blower in that car? I'd say $9,000, maybe $10,000 if EVERYTHING power in it works, and he can provide receipts for everything the motor has.

Hey, it's only my opinion. I've only had 30 years experience building Ford motors and cars. I'm sure you are a better mechanic and have more experience.:shrug:

My actual point wasn't the price but the amount of homework a guy needs to do to offer that kind of money for a car of unknown quality of internal parts and prep.

You'd offer $9K, maybe $10K, without checking it as I outlined?

 

[poopnut2]

Originally posted by 1995COBRA-R
Hey, it's only my opinion. I've only had 30 years experience building Ford motors and cars. I'm sure you are a better mechanic and have more experience.:shrug:

My actual point wasn't the price but the amount of homework a guy needs to do to offer that kind of money for a car of unknown quality of internal parts and prep.

You'd offer $9K, maybe $10K, without checking it as I outlined?

If everything works and he has receipts, that's all you can really do. Unfortunately, most people don't let you take a motor apart before you buy their car. No way in hell I'd pay $14,000 for it of course but I would say $9,000 would be a steal. You can see most of the big money parts with your eyes, and if he has the receipts for the internals, you can't do anything but assume that they're in the car.

Quick way to find out, test drive, make the owner get on it, and I mean get on it and that'll tell you if the internals are stock, real quick.

 

[NeedaCobra]

If you have almost 500rwhp and you can only run high 11s, something ain't right.

I could build a faster car with less money than that and it'll be more docile.

Just wait till my car is done and all gremlins are worked out :burnout:

 

[NeedaCobra]

Here you go, buy this car, save yourself money, have better performance
http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25542

Oh, only black foxbodies should have chrome wheels, :read:

 

[FliteQH]

Nah, I wouldn't pay that much for it.... The guy should be happy to get $10k in his pocket for it. I don't get why people overprice Foxes so often! It is ridiculous!

Originally posted by NeedaCobra
Here you go, buy this car, save yourself money, have better performance
http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=25542

Oh, only black foxbodies should have chrome wheels, :read:

I don't care for the looks of that car...Bras are for tits!! sheeessh

I do agree about the chromies though! ;-)

 

[SVTHorsnake]

I'd pay 12 for it. I'd bargain with him first though.

Intake and heads alone are pricey, plus the blower, injectors, all that other shit... 12, for sure

 

[NeedaCobra]

What kind of block is it?

Here you go again, this one has an A4 block, billet crank, etc.

http://www.turbomustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20317&highlight=billet

 

[NeedaCobra]

Buy this one!!!!!

Awesome engine, awesome paint, etc! :thumbsup:

 

[camaross0002]

I want to thank all you guys that gave your opinions. they are greatly appreciated.

I called the dealer back today and was going to do some bargaining with him. He told me that one of the customers that took the car for a test drive got on it a little to rough and didn't know how to drive stick fried the clutch.

1995COBRA-R. I wanted to say that you gave some excellent advice right there. I did talk to the owner of the car and he has all the reciepts and blueprints of the engine. He had the engine and tranny completed overhauled for race prep last year. He had all the reciepts from the shop and the time slips were from before he had the car overhauled so he wasn't sure of the new time.

 

[T-Bolt]

Too much. I've been looking at N/A 306s that are making as much power as that for 5500 (not as nice shape though). I like this bad boy, except for the spray, but it runs an 11.8 N/A: http://www.mustangclassifieds.com/i...47&PHPSESSID=c945df3e4c2967193c7b3f275f01928d

 

[1995COBRA-R]

Originally posted by poopnut2
If everything works and he has receipts, that's all you can really do.

I guess I'd just want to do more. Here's why. I have a race motor with $12K invested. I also have a spare motor that needs refreshed. I could show you the receipts on the good motor and sell you the spare. I agree most people wouldn't mislead you, but I'm the type that has to do all the due diligence possible before handing over the cash (research is cheaper than a lawyer).

I agree you can't take the engine apart, but it is simple to run a quick compression and leak down test. If the owner objected; I'd walk. If he didn't let me jack it up and crawl under it, pulll the wheels and check the suspension, and drive it myself (he could ride along); I'd walk. The underside of a car can tell you alot about it. The compression/leak down test tells you a bunch about the internals.

Like needacobra mentioned; you can check the type of block easily. An A4 (or it's replacement) or a S302 block probably has the good forged crank and rods. I'd worry if it was the production block. You can also pulll one valve cover and check the rockers very easily.

I've seen alot of $10K motors turn into boat anchors when one rod lets go. It can take the crank and heads with it. You'll have a pile of junk. Go to the R-model threads for a 351 in a 95R that lost a piston just a few weeks ago. It looks like he was lucky that it didn't do more damage to the engine.

Just my 2 1/2 cents

 

[poopnut2]

That's why I'd never buy a car with a "race" motor in it unless I knew the person and knew everything was on the up-and-up. I'd still prefer doing it myself.