65mm throttle body in but a/f ratios ok?

[red cobra 03]

I installed a 65mm ford racing throttle body. When I take it for a ride and watch the stock a/f meter it seems to be back and forth. When I punch it I get 11.8 to 12.8 and if I come off the gas pedal it seems to shoot up to 16 to 19. Looks ok with normal driving running 13.8 to 14.5. Along with the 65mm tb I have a air raid filter, frpp resonator delete and corsa axel back. Stock tune. Is the stock a/f meter accurate? Do I need a flash tuner? Thoughts?

 

[2011 gtcs]

I installed a 65mm ford racing throttle body. When I take it for a ride and watch the stock a/f meter it seems to be back and forth. When I punch it I get 11.8 to 12.8 and if I come off the gas pedal it seems to shoot up to 16 to 19. Looks ok with normal driving running 13.8 to 14.5. Along with the 65mm tb I have a air raid filter, frpp resonator delete and corsa axel back. Stock tune. Is the stock a/f meter accurate? Do I need a flash tuner? Thoughts?

Make sure you don't have any air leaks after the MAF, that is running a little lean at WOT, when I was running the CJ TB with my stock tune I was still seeing 10.0 at WOT. And yes the factory A/F gauge is very accurate, try also running the factory air filter.

 

[GT500662]

Is there a noticeable difference in power and the way it runs from stock with just adding the TB?

 

[2011 gtcs]

Is there a noticeable difference in power and the way it runs from stock with just adding the TB?

With my car there was, it's worth the money

 

[GT500662]

With my car there was, it's worth the money

I'm trying to avoid doing a tune if possible...due to having a bad experience in the past and wiped out the computer on my f250 power stroke. Still a little gun shy

 

[2011 gtcs]

I'm trying to avoid doing a tune if possible...due to having a bad experience in the past and wiped out the computer on my f250 power stroke. Still a little gun shy

Believe I know what you're saying, I sometimes I regret tuning my car, I mean the car is a lot faster but if I pop my engine I'm screwed. That being said as long as you go with a good tuner like VMP or Lund you should be safe.
Run the CJ TB for awhile and if you want more than get tuned

 

[red cobra 03]

I'm debating putting the stock tb back on. Don't Wana run a new car lean. No leaks I've checked. Others have posted running this tb with no problems I don't know what to do.

 

[red cobra 03]

Could I need a tuner with the tune for the 65mm tb?

 

[red cobra 03]

If the Car was running too lean would it throw a code?

 

[Live Faster]

To get the most out of the TB a tune is a good idea. After I did my TB,CAI I was throwing a lean code on bank 2 which was P0171 if I recall. I just did a couple if datalogs for the tuner guys and we had it all fixed up after 2 runs.

 

[VFORCEJOHN]

you should be fine. I dynotested this exact setup 2 weeks ago on mine. I saw 589 stock, 604 FRPP and airaid, and 633 with 65mm. a/f was RICH at 10.5 under full throttle runs.

I have since upgraded to the JLT cold air and a tuner, 10% lower, offroad H. DAMN what a difference. I went from 11.7 1/4 miles to 10.8's on a severely slipping clutch. I suspect 10.6-10.7 once I can launch and rpm doesn't shoot up in 3 gear past 125 mph.

 

[red cobra 03]

To get the most out of the TB a tune is a good idea. After I did my TB,CAI I was throwing a lean code on bank 2 which was P0171 if I recall. I just did a couple if datalogs for the tuner guys and we had it all fixed up after 2 runs.

So if the car runs to lean it will have a code pop up? I'm worried about burning up the motor.

 

[2011 gtcs]

I'm debating putting the stock tb back on. Don't Wana run a new car lean. No leaks I've checked. Others have posted running this tb with no problems I don't know what to do.

Disconnect your battery for a hour and restart the car, this way the computer can relearn with the new throttle body.

 

[Live Faster]

Yes a code will pop up if your to lean. Mine popped up on my 3 drive after I had just finished washing my car. Thought it was strange so I ignored it. Fired it up the next day drove to work and it was fine. Fired it up after work to go home and about 5 mins into my drive it popped up again. After that it seemed to showup on every second time I started my car. If you haven't had a check engine light pop up yet I'd say your ok. These cars are ridiculously smart!

 

[Live Faster]

Disconnect your battery for a hour and restart the car, this way the computer can relearn with the new throttle body.

That's one thing I never tried when i was having issues. But my buddy did that with his Mach 1 after we installed his new TB and his car ran great after!

 

[red cobra 03]

Disconnect your battery for a hour and restart the car, this way the computer can relearn with the new throttle body.

I will try that. Thank you

 

[red cobra 03]

Yes a code will pop up if your to lean. Mine popped up on my 3 drive after I had just finished washing my car. Thought it was strange so I ignored it. Fired it up the next day drove to work and it was fine. Fired it up after work to go home and about 5 mins into my drive it popped up again. After that it seemed to showup on every second time I started my car. If you haven't had a check engine light pop up yet I'd say your ok. These cars are ridiculously smart!

I was hoping that the car was smart enough to know if things were not rit with th a/f.

 

[LT5]

I installed a 65mm ford racing throttle body. When I take it for a ride and watch the stock a/f meter it seems to be back and forth. When I punch it I get 11.8 to 12.8 and if I come off the gas pedal it seems to shoot up to 16 to 19. Looks ok with normal driving running 13.8 to 14.5. Along with the 65mm tb I have a air raid filter, frpp resonator delete and corsa axel back. Stock tune. Is the stock a/f meter accurate? Do I need a flash tuner? Thoughts?

To get a general idea you could datalog the A/F for both TB configurations under similar condtions. That's what I did with the VMP 67 before I upgraded the MAF and tune.

Remember this is a "fly by wire "TB. I suspect if you hold WOT deeper into the rpm band. The A/F ratio will dip into the 10's. Especially in 3rd or 4th gear.
That was my result with the stock tune. You may have to use a local dyno to keep your license intact.

That being said. At minimum the car begs for a TB ,123mm+ MAF and a tune.
The risk of damage can be greatly minimized by using a conservative tune from a reputable tuner and datalogging.

 

[BOSSPOWER]

Your numbers sound normal. Like the other members said, get a tune from Lund or VMP and you will be fine.

Regards,

Manuel

 

[Competition]

I would not do any modifications involving change of inlet air, or fuel, without a tune. Just retarded IMO, even if you don't "need" it.