5W50 oil questions

[Grabber]

Hey everyone,

I went ahead and found a few in-depth threads about 5W50 oil and the possible requirement to use them in 2014 GT's with the Track Pack option.

I am really trying to determine a great quality 5W50 oil since Amsoil and Royal Purple do not make one.

The car will be driven somewhat frequently (Not a DD) and will only be taken to a drag strip at most, a few times a year.

Is 5W50 really required then, or could I settle for 5W40?

Thank you

-Chris

 

[jonb347]

Hey everyone,

I went ahead and found a few in-depth threads about 5W50 oil and the possible requirement to use them in 2014 GT's with the Track Pack option.

I am really trying to determine a great quality 5W50 oil since Amsoil and Royal Purple do not make one.

The car will be driven somewhat frequently (Not a DD) and will only be taken to a drag strip at most, a few times a year.

Is 5W50 really required then, or could I settle for 5W40?

Thank you

-Chris

this has been beat to death. the ford 5w-50 shears to a 30 weight if I remember? its crap. I don't even use it and I'm a ford dealer. Use amsoil 10w-40, 10w-30, or 5w-30 depending on your usage. I am sure beast will be here shortly to comment.

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

Actually. Joe Gibbs makes a FR50 oil which is 5w-50 and it's high up there if not better then Amsoil because of the zinc content used. We started using Joe Gibbs for everything.

BR30 - Break In Oil
FR20 - 5w-20
LS30 - 5w-30
FR50 - 5w-50

 

[Grabber]

Actually. Joe Gibbs makes a FR50 oil which is 5w-50 and it's high up there if not better then Amsoil because of the zinc content used. We started using Joe Gibbs for everything.

BR30 - Break In Oil
FR20 - 5w-20
LS30 - 5w-30
FR50 - 5w-50

this has been beat to death. the ford 5w-50 shears to a 30 weight if I remember? its crap. I don't even use it and I'm a ford dealer. Use amsoil 10w-40, 10w-30, or 5w-30 depending on your usage. I am sure beast will be here shortly to comment.

In comparison to the Amsoil and Royal Purple variants, how well does this oil stack up to the others? Very minimal wear and tear and good protection? How good is the breakdown point of the oil? The car will be driven on the street mainly in Chicago heat, so, will a 5W50 breakdown to say a 5W40 in high heat?

I've searched and only come up with a handful of threads I can count on one hand

I just want to make sure I select the right oil, as I really care about what goes in my car. I cannot stand motorcraft or mobil 1 as I know it is nowhere near the top of the line oils.

I've been using Amsoil for years and that is what I know best. But, I wanted some other opinions. Didn't mean to create yet another thread, beat the already buried horse because there are thousands of specific 2013/2014 GT Track Pack threads..........

 

[SteveG@Lethal]

In simple terms, light years ahead of RP. AmsOil is just as good and something we love using as well. The Joe Gibbs have a higher zinc content so it will not break down as quickly and will last. We use it in the hot humid Florida summers without issues either.

 

[UOP Shadow]

We've been running Redline 5W50 in our 13 GT500. We don't drive the car hard but the oil seems pretty beat when we change it.

 

[Nitrous Outlet]

Oil wars are funny to me as most guys that are pushing the limits of the oil on the market these days are far and few with the advances of oil over the years. I have ran Rotella T for years without any issues. I run Valvoline VR-1 now with a Wix oil filter since I get it for a good price and still nothing bad to say. Just keep up on the oil changes and all should be well. I would save the money on expensive oils and use it on go fast parts. Odds are if you're pushing the car it will go from something else vs. a "lesser oil".

 

[UnleashedBeast]

Oil wars are funny to me as most guys that are pushing the limits of the oil on the market these days are far and few with the advances of oil over the years. I have ran Rotella T for years without any issues. I run Valvoline VR-1 now with a Wix oil filter since I get it for a good price and still nothing bad to say. Just keep up on the oil changes and all should be well. I would save the money on expensive oils and use it on go fast parts. Odds are if you're pushing the car it will go from something else vs. a "lesser oil".

Lance, there is so much more to an engine lubricant than protection being "sufficient". Most oil debates in SVT actually bring hard facts to the table, showing what is optimal. I've never understood why someone would spend a fortune in high performance cars, only to use cheap off the shelf lubricants that rapidly shear, have a high evaporation rate, which also must be changed more frequently. At the same time, not optimizing efficiency, and leaving deposits in your engines intake manifold, valves, and combustion chamber.

Top tier lubricants address these issues, not sacrificing performance to increase profit margins. Rotella T6 is cheap hydrocracked base oil, with not much to brag about in the additive department. It's the age old "never let me down, so it must be good" statement. So what, it's suffient, we can agree on that. Lubricant debate threads are about optimal.

For the record, Amsoil @ Preferred Customer pricing is no more expensive than Mobil 1 off the shelf from Wal Mart. How is that possible? I can run it twice as long. Currently, I have 8,000 miles on the oil in my GT, with no plans to change it until I reach 12,000. Right about now, you probably think I am nuts. Actually, it's the opposite. I'm educated on the topic, and know my engine will still last longer than someone using cheap lubricants at 3,000 mile oil change intervals, with less contaminants, and far better efficiency.

 

[Grabber]

Lance, there is so much more to an engine lubricant than protection being "sufficient". Most oil debates in SVT actually bring hard facts to the table, showing what is optimal. I've never understood why someone would spend a fortune in high performance cars, only to use cheap off the shelf lubricants that rapidly shear, have a high evaporation rate, which also must be changed more frequently. At the same time, not optimizing efficiency, and leaving deposits in your engines intake manifold, valves, and combustion chamber.

Top tier lubricants address these issues, not sacrificing performance to increase profit margins. Rotella T6 is cheap hydrocracked base oil, with not much to brag about in the additive department. It's the age old "never let me down, so it must be good" statement. So what, it's suffient, we can agree on that. Lubricant debate threads are about optimal.

For the record, Amsoil @ Preferred Customer pricing is no more expensive than Mobil 1 off the shelf from Wal Mart. How is that possible? I can run it twice as long. Currently, I have 8,000 miles on the oil in my GT, with no plans to change it until I reach 12,000. Right about now, you probably think I am nuts. Actually, it's the opposite. I'm educated on the topic, and know my engine will still last longer than someone using cheap lubricants at 3,000 mile oil change intervals, with less contaminants, and far better efficiency.

So, stick with Amsoil, or, what do you think about Joe Gibbs oil?

Good info BTW.

 

[Nitrous Outlet]

If you build the motor correctly or the motor is built correctly there will be no issues. I have spoke with engine builders over the years and they say these three names as for oil to use. Brad Penn, Valvoline VR-1 and Rotella. Most like Rotella for a break in oil but I have spoke to many that use it in cars pushing 1,500+hp. All oil would have a good additive package like the high dollar oils if the EPA was not involved. And I get the long interval thing but if I run a synthetic I won't change it at less than 7,500 miles. I like Valvoline, it is cheap ($3.99) and I have not had an oil related issue ever. And Rotella used to have a pretty badass additive package.

I read somewhere, where they did a Motor Oil Wear Test deal and 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra was number one, Amsoil was like number four with Valvoline right behind it and 5W50 Motorcraft was right behind the Valvoline. Just some food for thought.

 

[UnleashedBeast]

I read somewhere, where they did a Motor Oil Wear Test deal and 5W30 Pennzoil Ultra was number one, Amsoil was like number four with Valvoline right behind it and 5W50 Motorcraft was right behind the Valvoline. Just some food for thought.

That test used no hard data for comparison, simply ranking. How can that be "food for thought"? We've proven more than once that Motorcraft 5W-50 is failboat (beaten consistently by Amsoil Signature Series). Also, when referring to additive pack, you are focused only on ZDDP, which has been proven to be not required in modern engines in most uses. Wear results were no different between high ZDDP formulations and API SN levels of ZDDP. Even factory engines have API SN levels of ZDDP in their break in oils (standard factory fill). I'm not saying high ZDDP is not required for break in, as I prefer it...so does Amsoil. I'm just saying it's not required all the time. Other additives in the package were added to compensate lower levels of ZDDP.

All three lubricants you listed are not top tier. They all contain group III hydrocracked base oils. Sufficient, absolutely. Optimal, not even close.

 

[Nitrous Outlet]

That test used no hard data for comparison, simply ranking. How can that be "food for thought"? We've proven more than once that Motorcraft 5W-50 is failboat (beaten consistently by Amsoil Signature Series). Also, when referring to additive pack, you are focused only on ZDDP, which has been proven to be not required in modern engines in most uses. Wear results were no different between high ZDDP formulations and API SN levels of ZDDP. Even factory engines have API SN levels of ZDDP in their break in oils (standard factory fill). I'm not saying high ZDDP is not required for break in, as I prefer it...so does Amsoil. I'm just saying it's not required all the time. Other additives in the package were added to compensate lower levels of ZDDP.

All three lubricants you listed are not top tier. They all contain group III hydrocracked base oils. Sufficient, absolutely. Optimal, not even close.

To each his own. I listen to the engine builders and use what they say and I have never had an issue. Like I said if it is built correctly there will be no issues.

 

[Iceman II]

I just changed the oil in my 12 this week. I went with Amsoil 10w40 based on unleashedbeast recommendations.

 

[Grabber]

I went ahead and ordered some RP HPS 10W40 for the 5.0.

 

[mp23]

The joe Gibbs oil is top notch. I know some performance engine builders who wont warrant the engine unless you use joe gibbs