50 shot...what's needed???

[SCT2003]

I'm thinking about using a 50 shot of N2O at the track...mostly for it's cooling effect.

I have a good 91 octane SCT street tune, 2.8 pulley, catted x-pipe, 3" CB and open air filter.

I already have NGK TR-6 plugs gapped to 32...I think???

I know this isn't a big shot or anything but what is needed to safely spray a 50 shot on our Termies???

I'll need a N20(race)tune for when I'm spraying but do I need different plugs also??? Will the TR-6s be sufficient???

Would I need higher octane on the juice???

How about the stock fuel pump, will it suffice???

Any other suggestions or comments???

Thanks...

Later...Dave

 

[slo-poc]

You gonna run a dry or wet shot????

 

[SCT2003]

You gonna run a dry or wet shot????

Not sure...never dabbled in N2O before...what is your opinion???

Thanks...

Later...Dave

 

[svtnos1011]

i love my wet kit:rockon: i have the N.O.S. kit, not the one with the plate. i never had a full pass on it cuz i was having issues with the micro switch getting pushed up and not making contact therefore the nitrous was getting disengaged. waiting for spring now that that issue is fixed:coolman:

im trapping 116mphs on a stock eaton/pulleys with no spray, cant wait to see where i am at with it:rolling:

 

[SCT2003]

Is there a Nitrous Sticky for 03-04 Cobras???

Or maybe just a good link to some helpful N2O info???

I've been searching and found this link but I really want to know the ins and outs associated with the S/C 03-04 applications...

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?t=219844

Again...I'm just looking at a 50 Shot or so...

Thanks...

Later...Dave

 

[PistolWhip]

A 50 shot dry, pre MAF should be fine with the tune your running as long as your fuel system is not overly taxed as it is. If your on the edge of maxing your fuel systems capabilities now, the nitrous will absolutely push you over the edge.
When nitrous is sprayed into the MAF, the ECU is told that there is massive amounts of cold, dense air entering the engine. That "tricks" the ECU into adding more fuel to accommodate for the added air that the MAF is metering. I have seen this method used very successfully up to 100 HP shot, although I personally would not trust any higher than a 75 shot.
You need to make sure that your fuel system is up to the task and that your MAF is not going to be pegged by the introduction of the Nitrous. Other than that, no real tuning required to make it work, but it won't hurt if you want to get every last available HP.

 

[03CobraDom]

A 50 shot dry, pre MAF should be fine with the tune your running as long as your fuel system is not overly taxed as it is. If your on the edge of maxing your fuel systems capabilities now, the nitrous will absolutely push you over the edge.
When nitrous is sprayed into the MAF, the ECU is told that there is massive amounts of cold, dense air entering the engine. That "tricks" the ECU into adding more fuel to accommodate for the added air that the MAF is metering. I have seen this method used very successfully up to 100 HP shot, although I personally would not trust any higher than a 75 shot.
You need to make sure that your fuel system is up to the task and that your MAF is not going to be pegged by the introduction of the Nitrous. Other than that, no real tuning required to make it work, but it won't hurt if you want to get every last available HP.

isn't this a reason why its safer to run a wetshot??

 

[PistolWhip]

No. Even if you have a wet kit, the kit demands fuel from the rail. It still taxes the cars fuels system. At low HP levels, its always been my opinion that a dry shot is a little less taxing and eliminates the instant pressure drop across the rail that you get when you open the fuel solenoid with a wet kit.
With a wet kit, the car should be tuned for the pressure drop, increasing line and rail pressure.
Looking at the OP's mods in his sig, I see nothing that would lead me to believe that his fuel system is maxed or on the edge. It only takes one run with data logging to see if the MAF is close to pegging and if it's not, there is nothing to worry about.
With all that being said, it has always been my recommendation to make a good aftermarket MAF one of the first upgrades you make on a car that will be modded beyond basic bolt on's, but that's a debate for a different thread.

 

[Stevenbekah]

what's needed? some nuts to ensure you are 100% confident your stuff does NOT blow the hell up!

 

[SCT2003]

A 50 shot dry, pre MAF should be fine with the tune your running as long as your fuel system is not overly taxed as it is. If your on the edge of maxing your fuel systems capabilities now, the nitrous will absolutely push you over the edge.
When nitrous is sprayed into the MAF, the ECU is told that there is massive amounts of cold, dense air entering the engine. That "tricks" the ECU into adding more fuel to accommodate for the added air that the MAF is metering. I have seen this method used very successfully up to 100 HP shot, although I personally would not trust any higher than a 75 shot.
You need to make sure that your fuel system is up to the task and that your MAF is not going to be pegged by the introduction of the Nitrous. Other than that, no real tuning required to make it work, but it won't hurt if you want to get every last available HP.

Does anybody make a dedicated "dry kit" for the Cobra that places the nozzle before the MAF??? I've always thought that most kits for the Cobra(wet and dry) are always installed with the nozzle after the MAF and at least 6 inches from the TB???

If I do this your way, would I just get a generic dry "EFI" kit and ignore the directions and place the nozzle in the air filter like some of those ZEX import kits from a couple of years back???

I kinda like the idea of a dedicated N2O system that is made specifically made for the 03' Cobra since I'm a "nitrous noobie".

As far as my MAF and fuel system capabilities, I'm sure my tuner can give me the info on that the next time on his dyno. If I'm not mistaken...I might be close to the limits???

I really dig the idea of a 50 shot to push me over the 500 HP mark and God only knows how much torque it'll add!!!

Can't wait...

Thanks for your input...

Later...Dave

 

[SCT2003]

isn't this a reason why its safer to run a wetshot??

I've always heard that a "wet shot" is safer then a "dry shot" and a "fuel safety swich" and "rpm window switch" are no brainers to keep things from going boom. I might be able to get away with a dry kit at the 50 HP level but is it worth it???

Later...Dave

 

[SCT2003]

No. Even if you have a wet kit, the kit demands fuel from the rail. It still taxes the cars fuels system. At low HP levels, its always been my opinion that a dry shot is a little less taxing and eliminates the instant pressure drop across the rail that you get when you open the fuel solenoid with a wet kit.
With a wet kit, the car should be tuned for the pressure drop, increasing line and rail pressure.
Looking at the OP's mods in his sig, I see nothing that would lead me to believe that his fuel system is maxed or on the edge. It only takes one run with data logging to see if the MAF is close to pegging and if it's not, there is nothing to worry about.
With all that being said, it has always been my recommendation to make a good aftermarket MAF one of the first upgrades you make on a car that will be modded beyond basic bolt on's, but that's a debate for a different thread.

So, if my MAF and fuel system are up to par, you feel that a 50 dry shot without a tune will safely do the trick??? If things are close to the edge, go the "wet shot" route and a tune???

When should I do the upgraded MAF??? Before I do nitrous or only when the stock one is pegged???

Thanks...

Later...Dave

 

[Senkak]

I run a 100 dry shot post MAF on top of my 2.95/4lb Steg 3 combo. This is a Dynotune SVT kit. Very inexpensive and very reliable.
It has been dead reliable and has taken my vert to a best of 10.7@130.
I have a seperate tune in the SCT XCal2 for nitrous.






-

 

[moddedmystic]

SCT2003 what are your mods? Depending on your mods you could go either wet or dry. If your close to pegging your MAF I'd get a bigger MAF or MAF extender if you want to run dry. Otherwise pullin a 50 shot(wet) off the rail is no big deal. Only thing I would suggest (wet or dry) is to run more octane.

 

[PistolWhip]

So, if my MAF and fuel system are up to par, you feel that a 50 dry shot without a tune will safely do the trick??? If things are close to the edge, go the "wet shot" route and a tune???

When should I do the upgraded MAF??? Before I do nitrous or only when the stock one is pegged???

Thanks...

Later...Dave

For growth reasons, it can't hurt to get yourself a better MAF or MAFia when you get the Nitrous. That way even if your not pegging it now, if you ever decide to pulley the car further or add more nitrous you will have nothing to worry about. MAF's are quite often the forgotten mod because they don't add power like a pulley or a set of long tubes, but its a do it and forget it mod.
I think you misunderstood me on the fuel system though. Even with a wet kit, you need to make sure your fuel system has enough left to compensate for the added oxygen and denser air that is introduced into the combustion chamber. Nitrous works by releasing an oxygen molecule when it's heated and by cooling intake air as it's expanded (as a liquid) in the intake.
Both of those actions require fuel to make it burn. It's no a flammable gas, so without fuel it will never ignite.
So, no matter what you need to have enough fuel in the cylinder to keep the "fire burning."
This is all good stuff to keep in mind, but the bottom line is that a 50 shot is just too small of an amount of nitrous to worry too much about it.

 

[svtnos1011]

what's needed? some nuts to ensure you are 100% confident your stuff does NOT blow the hell up!

nitrous is very safe if it is done correctly. these cars love the f'n nitrous, like you would not believe. i never had a full pass on nitrous but once you hit 88mph; youll see some serious shiznit:rockon: