'5.0 Stroker Aluminator Build' Picture Heavy

matthayn

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Nothing ground breaking here but I figured I had enough progress to start a build thread not only to keep track of things but for other mustangers to enjoy as well.

End goal: 5.0 stroker 2.9 Whipple E85 street monster that will see occasional track time on slicks.

I started with a 5.0 aluminum stroker short block from a guy here on the forum, freshly bored 20 over, all forged internals - Kellogg crank, Manley rods, Diamond pistons. The block is an Aluminator or 'Nemak' block with a 2006 date stamp. Here's more info on these blocks: http://www.terminator-cobra.com/castings.htm scroll about 3/4 down (and thanks for the great info as always Joe!)

It is built for boost and will be somewhere in the 8.5-9.0 compression range. (EDIT: Final CR calculated at 8.62:1) At first I will be running a ported Eaton setup on E85 for a little while until it's good and broken in, then 2.9 Whipple later on and let it eat! I WILL run a safe 93 octane tune quite often with the Whipple, which is one reason for the low CR.

1sb_zpslseu60mr.jpg


2nemak_zpset2xlhqw.jpg


I scored a new set of Roush-Yates DC casting ported heads too

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3heads_zps9jxykbnb.jpg


6heads_zpswzue90w4.jpg


Went with a Melling billet geared pump

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Assembly - ARP head studs and everything else too

10studs_zpsaxefnuib.jpg


9assembly_zpsrwxpuecb.jpg


The Ford Racing timing set is a very nice set and comes with everything needed including all timing cover bolts and gaskets.

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I went with the MMR tray made to clear all stroker cranks, pick up tube, and pan.

14traypickup_zpszt1rxmcj.jpg


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And the other goodies going in with the swap

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I still need some gaskets, fluids, etc before the swap happens later this fall. I'm shooting for early November and it will be done in the garage. This is my first experience building anything and by no means am I doing it all myself, luckily I have some great tech buddies who know worlds more than myself and are helping me learn a ton.

More to come

Follow me on IG for progress as well: matt_mach1
 
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jrgoffin

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Nice job, Matt!

Looking forward to hearing how it turns out once it's dropped in. The Nemak "Aluminator" blocks are great score, and as an FYI for anyone else interested, here's a similar build thread over at ModFords for my Terminator:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/236857-Aluminator-Gibtec-build

EDIT: Forgot to add that your block is technically the "Aluminator" since you can see the one timing cover bolt hole to the right of the water pump that has been re-drilled. FRPP did this and added a plug to the unused hole. For those of us that had to source the block from a 3V GT, we are on our own here! Info in my link on p.4. Also, FRPP did a much nicer job of machining down the knock-sensor bosses!
 
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DSG2003Mach1

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Looks nice! Never really cared for those coil covers until now, my VCs are wrinkle black as well

All that ARP shit sure adds up in a hurry huh
 

jrgoffin

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All that ARP shit sure adds up in a hurry huh

That is very true. With the head studs (especially if you go to the 2000's), main caps, side bolts, cam bolts, and crank snout, you can get close to $1,000. If you upgrade the rods to 2000's you'll spend even more. That's also not including cam towers, oil pan, flywheel, etc. Well worth it, though for as much as these engines cost!
 

matthayn

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Yes ^ whew ARP will clean out your wallet! Build a mod motor they said...

Anyone wanting more info on these blocks should definitely check out Joe's website at www.terminator-cobra.com and his build thread linked above!
 

matthayn

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Teardown is in progress.

I found T#9 marked on the block in the valley. I do know that the engine in the car is a pre-production long block, I just have to wonder if anyone else has similar markings or what it might signify, could be common?

T9_zpsrhrjmfym.jpg


Check out the date marked on the intercooler

intercooler1_zpsrmkmwxef.jpg


This is the first time I've had the blower off the car, I was a little surprised at the size of the port!

port2_zpsdqkjxg8v.jpg


port1_zpspxaoz1d5.jpg
 

BadSonicBlueSVT

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That's a HELL of a motor build you have going on there Matt! Them LS boys not going to like that. Looking good though man can't wait to see it and hear it when you get it buttoned up. Can we say "ANIMAL"!
 

matthayn

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Well it's out, and I unexpectedly need a couple parts before the new one goes in of course. Tons of cleaning this week, new one should go in next weekend.

openbay_zpsrhrubkdr.jpg


2engines_zpsjjtkxgcj.jpg
 

matthayn

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Update: I have had two set backs over the last couple weekends. Here is the first, what looks to a be homemade head cooling mod. While I knew this engine had the head cooling mod, I didn't realize how the previous owner had done it... pretty jank stuff if you look closely, lol! The stock pipe on the right appears to have been welded into and was leaking (see previous pic of engine bay, look at firewall), and the piece on the left looks like it was fab'd - not very well.

headcoolingmod_zpsowiag1xf.jpg


So another one of these was on order, by the way if you need one of these pieces, they are obsolete through Ford but there are still some out there to be had through dealers...

coolingpipe_zpszfyjmgbr.jpg


Ready to drop in

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Aaaand it's in.

Now let me tell you guys something. MMR notes that their oil pan setup works with all aftermarket k members... What they don't tell you is that it DOES NOT FIT WITH A STOCK K MEMBER. With more research on their pan I would have found a thread or two out there stating this, but I guess you live and learn. Had I known before I could've notched the part I needed out in a few minutes no big deal, but instead I had to lay under the car on the ground for a good while with a small grinder and the engine almost in until I had ground away the lip that was in the way of the oil pan sliding in. I hope this info helps someone in the future!

Edit: MMR told me there should have been clear instruction with the pan in the box stating how the k member needed to be notched, there wasn't any paper or anything in my box :/ oh well.

On to my second setback.

inputshaft_zpsud351t2s.jpg


Wasn't expecting that one. Any ideas on what could cause this? No other damage to trans, luckily. All the missing teeth were on the magnets. This input shaft does not appear to be a tremec unit, thinking that has something to do with it. I have a tremec 26 spline on the way, hopefully I'll have everything in the engine bay back together by this weekend, and when the shaft arrives it's go time!
 
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BLKFOX

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Very cool! On the input shaft, it sounds like someone didn't get something right when they put it back together?
 

Geno-04

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Very nice build! It might seem like a lot of work now....but once it's done, it's always worth it! Trust me. Good luck with the rest of the build.
 

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