4v cam install

[snakebittin]

Anyone have a sudgestion as to a good cam for my 97 Cobra?Also wondering if the sprngs can be chandged while the cams are being done without taking engine out of theh car?

 

[Tabres]

You haven't really provided enough information for anyone to make good suggestions. Cam selection should depend on multiple variables - N/A vs. FI, goals for the car, etc.

And yes, it is possible to swap springs without the heads being removed. I've never done it myself, though.

 

[snakebittin]

the car will be na weekend cruiser dual purpose car straights and turns.Currently have 4.10s,catted xpipe cat back flowmasters,82mm massair,62mm throttlebody,pullies usual bolt on mods

 

[x25064]

I'd say go with these puppies, this is the pair I have been looking at.

COMP Cams: Xtreme XE-R Series, XE278AH-114 <br> Race/Limited Street Use, Very Rrough Idle

Theres a few videos of mustangs on youtube with them. They sound mean as hell.

 

[Chris _Scott]

^^^ lol

I wouldn't waste your money on those.

changing valve springs with the motor in place is possible..but an absolute PITA and I personally would never do them with in the car...I waited until I pulled my heads to install mine.

I say go with a nice custom grind cam that was made for your specs and what you want for your car [gears/power/displacement/powerband/intake/blah blah blah] that won't require the cost of $500 springs and retainers on top of it.

You would also need a short runner, long tubes, and a retune with it to see the full potential of the cams.

 

[James Snover]

I would say it is impossible to change the valve springs with the engine in the car. TX_Diablous has a 98 Cobra. We had to change the valve seals. We took one look at it and pulled the engine out to do the job.

Unless you are some kind of contortionist, or have some really nifty special tools that I don't know about, forget it. Pull the engine.

Are you sure you really need new springs? The stockers are really good ovate-wire beehive springs. I guess it depends on what the cam manufacturer recommends, though.

Jim Snover

 

[Chris _Scott]

I would say it is impossible to change the valve springs with the engine in the car. TX_Diablous has a 98 Cobra. We had to change the valve seals. We took one look at it and pulled the engine out to do the job.

Unless you are some kind of contortionist, or have some really nifty special tools that I don't know about, forget it. Pull the engine.

Are you sure you really need new springs? The stockers are really good ovate-wire beehive springs. I guess it depends on what the cam manufacturer recommends, though.

Jim Snover

It is possible. Basically you have a tool that attaches to an air compressor and screws into the spark plug threads and keeps the cylinder full of air, that way the valves do not drop in when you remove the spring.

I haven't personally done it, but the guy I bought my cams from was going to sell me his valve springs too...couldn't get them off after several days of trying and just gave up and sold me the cams alone.

And yes, for anything bigger than a stage 1 off the shelf cam [atleast from COMP] will REQUIRE the use of upgraded valve springs and retainers.

I believe the 03/04 Cobras have even nicer valve springs and are beehive, but still are not sufficient for cams with a big lift.

However you can get custom grinds that will allow you to utilize the stock springs and provide a better curve for a street car.

edit: ZOMG!! I know something Jim Snover doesn't!!! -marks on calendar-

 

[encasedmetal]

if you get the livernois springs you don't need new retainers- and they're 369.99. pull the engine-especially if you choose the comp 278, cause you'll need to check the ptv clearance. I get the feeling that alot of people are basing their cam choices on their "friends" cars that aren't modular-ie 5.0's and LS1 cars.

 

[James Snover]

Keeping the valves up is not the problem, just turn the crank to TDC for that cylinder and the piston will keep the valves up well enough for the job. With the engine still in the car, room around the head, room around the valve keepers, room around the valve springs, that is the problem.

If you ever do it yourself, let me know and I'll buy you a beer.

Jim Snover

It is possible. Basically you have a tool that attaches to an air compressor and screws into the spark plug threads and keeps the cylinder full of air, that way the valves do not drop in when you remove the spring.

I haven't personally done it, but the guy I bought my cams from was going to sell me his valve springs too...couldn't get them off after several days of trying and just gave up and sold me the cams alone.

And yes, for anything bigger than a stage 1 off the shelf cam [atleast from COMP] will REQUIRE the use of upgraded valve springs and retainers.

I believe the 03/04 Cobras have even nice valve springs and are beehive, but still are not sufficient for cams with a big lift.

However you can get custom grinds that will allow you to utilize the stock springs and provide a better curve for a street car.

 

[Chris _Scott]

Keeping the valves up is not the problem, just turn the crank to TDC for that cylinder and the piston will keep the valves up well enough for the job. With the engine still in the car, room around the head, room around the valve keepers, room around the valve springs, that is the problem.

If you ever do it yourself, let me know and I'll buy you a beer.

Jim Snover

I know what you mean...I was having trouble with the heads off using a traditional valve compressor tool. Ford sells a special OTC valve compressor tool that you need to use. The springs sit in pretty far and deep and it is hard to get to..and you can't use the neat tools that do everything for you with a magnet since the valve stems are multi-groove.

room around the actual head though is no problem for me..I don't have that huge brake booster[I have manual brakes] or any wires around the engine anymore. :banana:

Still I will definitely not attempt it myself...I did what you two did, I simply just pulled the motor and did it that way.

I wouldn't even attempt doing it for a beer and a large pan of bacon!! haha :beer:

 

[Tabres]

The Ford OTC tool is an expensive piece of junk. I actually had a keeper pop loose when I was degreeing the cams in my engine (thanks to how the OTC tool behaves, actually) and no matter what I did could not get the OTC tool to work in a manner that would allow me to get the keeper installed back correctly. I messed with it for ages and eventually gave up, pulled the head off, and bought a different style compressor - like this:

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-OTC4572-Spring-Compressor/dp/B000F5ECUY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1283381703&sr=8-2"]Amazon.com: OTC Tools (OTC4572) Large Valve Spring Compressor: Automotive[/ame]

With the new spring compressor I had the keeper back in place in about 15 seconds.

Personally, I agree with Jim. I'd much rather remove the engine and pull the head off to swap springs than ever think about goofing around with the task while the engine is in the car.