3 DTC codes

[01Lightningwafb]

Recently had this code come up on tuner: P0136-Downstream Heated O2 sensor circuit fault-Bank 1. Then today I had two others come up. They are: P1132-Lack of Upstream Heated O2 sensor switch. Sensor indicates Rich-Bank 1/drivers side. P1152- lack of upstream heated O2 sensor switch. Indicates Rich-bank 2. Are these sensors common to fail, or hard to replace? Truck OD is a 68k. Any help would be great! Thanks. :beer:

 

[oilwell1415]

The 136 is probably an internally shorted heater circuit in the sensor. You could check it yourself, but I don't think I could explain it to you on the forum.

On the front two, you may have some damaged wiring somewhere. It's a little odd to have the same O2 sensor code on each bank at the same time unless the two are related.

On something like this you have a few options. Here they are listed from cheapest to most expensive for the average person:

1. Take it to a pro. Pay them to fix it. Be done with it. Most people think this will be really expensive, but I can't tell you how many times I saw a car come through the door that someone had DIY'd to the tune of $1000 in parts that I was able to fix for a $200-300. Then they bitched because we charged too much. WTF?

2. Buy a service manual and a volt ohm meter. Wrestle with it every waking hour for a few days. Even with the manual and tools, you may struggle with this a lot without any experience troubleshooing the codes. It may be 5 minutes, it may be days or weeks. Who knows? What is your time worth? A manual, meter and parts may very well cost more than the repair at a shop, but you'll still have the manual and meter.

3. Throw parts in the general direction of the truck until the light goes off. This is quicksand if ever there was any. What usually happens is the person throws 3 or 4 different parts at it and the light is still on, so they throw two or three more at it. When they install part number 7 the light goes off. The problem is that the second part they installed fixed their problem, it just took a while to get the necessary drive cycles done to clear the code. At this point it doesn't matter much, the problem is fixed. A year later the light comes on for the same problem again and it gets dumb because they throw part #7 at it again thinking that it will fix it again even though it isn't what fixed it the first time. They again spend lots of money on unneeded parts hoping that the light will go off. Maybe they go back to #2, maybe not. The eventually throw up their hands and move to possible solution #2 or hopefully #1 above after spending $1000-1500 on crap they didn't need when a $20 piece of hose would have fixed them right up.

Your call. If I was in your shoes, I would crawl underneath and look for any obvious damage to the wiring or sensors. Check the fuses for the heater circuits. If none of that turns up a problem, take it to a pro and be done with it.

 

[JollyGiant]

Have you recently done any work under the truck? Headers or transmission? It sounds like a wiring problem in the harness that goes to the O2 sensors and these problems occur frequently after trans or header work. Harness gets pinched or melted due to improper relocation.