3.6 kb lag

[red gt500]

am not happy with my 3.6 it lags betwin the gears like if its a turbo..i talked to kenne bell they say that I didn't install the vacum correctly but they didn't say where to connect it to
I installed the vacum as if its a 2.8 kb

any thought's on how to solve this problem ?

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

am not happy with my 3.6 it lags betwin the gears like if its a turbo..i talked to kenne bell they say that I didn't install the vacum correctly but they didn't say where to connect it to
I installed the vacum as if its a 2.8 kb

any thought's on how to solve this problem ?

Do you have cams and ported heads? Does your bypass valve have a red button on it?

 

[red gt500]

yes I have cams and ported heads ..no I dont have a red button on my bypass

 

[red gt500]

Do you have cams and ported heads? Does your bypass valve have a red button on it?

yes I have cams ...no the bypass don't have a red button on it

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Does your bypass valve have a spring or does it have an arm? It's possible the valve isn't fully opening and closing due to the reduced vacuum with cams.

 

[2nd2none]

am not happy with my 3.6 it lags betwin the gears like if its a turbo..i talked to kenne bell they say that I didn't install the vacum correctly but they didn't say where to connect it to
I installed the vacum as if its a 2.8 kb

any thought's on how to solve this problem ?

Not sure where its hooked up to on a 2.8 but my 3.6 vacuum line is hooked into the back corner of the blower close to the firewall. I took my car into a shop for something else and he noticed that and thought it was hooked up wrong. I went home and looked over my installation instructions and the way it was installed was correct. He was thinking it should've been tapped into the line that goes to the fuel regulator.
My kit also came with a separate baggy with a spacer that is supposed to get installed between the blower and bypass valve. KB started adding this piece because I guess some people were having problems of the bypass arm hitting something and not allowing full movement

 

[red gt500]

Not sure where its hooked up to on a 2.8 but my 3.6 vacuum line is hooked into the back corner of the blower close to the firewall. I took my car into a shop for something else and he noticed that and thought it was hooked up wrong. I went home and looked over my installation instructions and the way it was installed was correct. He was thinking it should've been tapped into the line that goes to the fuel regulator.
My kit also came with a separate baggy with a spacer that is supposed to get installed between the blower and bypass valve. KB started adding this piece because I guess some people were having problems of the bypass arm hitting something and not allowing full movement

i hooked it to the back of the blower at the elbow same as it says in the kb instructions ..i have talked to my tuner he told my to connect in a way that it don't suck boost because its a big supercharger he also told me to connect it somewhere in the fuel rail or the vacume line of the fuel regulator
but am not sure if he is right or wrong yet

 

[red gt500]

Does your bypass valve have a spring or does it have an arm? It's possible the valve isn't fully opening and closing due to the reduced vacuum with cams.

it has an arm ..but where did you connect it to in your previous cars ?
i have connect it to the back of the supercharger elbow same as i did in the 2.8

is it safe to connect it to the fuel regulator vacuum line ?

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

You should put the car on the dyno and observe the arm during an initial hit on the dyno. I'm suspicious that its not opening all the way. What are you pulley'd for boost wise? What should you be seeing. Can you do a Smoke check and look for a vacuum leak? Are you logging the car and seeing the throttle go WOT?

 

[red gt500]

You should put the car on the dyno and observe the arm during an initial hit on the dyno. I'm suspicious that its not opening all the way. What are you pulley'd for boost wise? What should you be seeing. Can you do a Smoke check and look for a vacuum leak? Are you logging the car and seeing the throttle go WOT?

4inch upper and 10%lower seeing 17 psi
3inch upper and 10%lower 26-27 psi
so its normal no boost problem at all ..just the Maine problem is that if i lift my foot off to a shift it into second or third gear and than step on it it takes half a second to build boost

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Rule #1 When you race a Ford Mustang...........Never Lift!!!

Sounds like you probably need a lower vacuum bypass so it opens faster.

 

[red gt500]

Rule #1 When you race a Ford Mustang...........Never Lift!!!

Sounds like you probably need a lower vacuum bypass so it opens faster.

that's a good rule :-D

but how can I do the lower vacuum bypass ?

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

it has an arm ..but where did you connect it to in your previous cars ?

i have connect it to the back of the supercharger elbow same as i did in the 2.8

is it safe to connect it to the fuel regulator vacuum line ?

Don't route the boost line off the inlet manifold. Get your boost from the Fuel Rail pressure sensor side. Sounds like your boost reference is coming off the inlet manifold. I don't believe you need a different valve.

 

[red gt500]

Don't route the boost line off the inlet manifold. Get your boost from the Fuel Rail pressure sensor side. Sounds like your boost reference is coming off the inlet manifold. I don't believe you need a different valve.

I did reroute the boost line ..and now the problem is solved
and it runs like an animal :burnout:
thanks

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

I did reroute the boost line ..and now the problem is solved
and it runs like an animal :burnout:
thanks

Excellent!!!!

 

[2nd2none]

Just bringing this back up as I was bored today so decided to reroute my bypass line by adding a 'T' into the fuel pressure sensor. It definitely picks up much faster now buuuuuut I did toss a wrench light about 5 minutes into my run which I think might be due to another problem I've had and I'm hoping Van might be able to help.
I first noticed this when I was on a trip from San Diego to Tucson. I was in 6th gear doing maybe 80 mph at 1800ish RPM. I go to give it a little gas and the wrench light came on. I didn't step on the gas very much at all. Just enough to slowly pull over and pass another car. Turn off and restart the car and the light is gone. This happened again on the drive home with almost the exact same conditions. I haven't tried it again but I'm thinking I can get this to happen anytime I wanted to. Today's wrench light after the bypass hose rerouting occurred the same way but in 5th gear.
I'm hoping its something simple just in the tune as I'm pretty sure the local tuner here did something wrong. KB 3.6LC full kit w/3.75" upper with addition of 72# injectors and only made about 625 RWHP. For comparison the same tuner/dyno put me at 696 RWHP when I had a VMP TVS w/2.5" pulley, L&M 72mm TB, dynatech longtubes with cats. 91 octane on both blowers. I put the stock cats/exhaust back on with the Kenne Bell but I can't see how I lost about 70 HP with the swap. I've seen stock cars put the 2.8LC kit on and make more power.

 

[2nd2none]

Just went out with tuner and checked codes. P1000 and P115E. Its weird because when I first installed the kit I had the exact same codes. Ken Christie sent me a few different tunes and the last one finally cleared the P115E and after a few days the P1000 cleared. After I put the smaller pulley and bigger injectors on I had a local tuner dyno tune it. Its weird that his tune would now be throwing those same codes. I'm guessing something is wrong with my KB 75mm throttle body.

 

[Van@RevanRacing]

Just went out with tuner and checked codes. P1000 and P115E. Its weird because when I first installed the kit I had the exact same codes. Ken Christie sent me a few different tunes and the last one finally cleared the P115E and after a few days the P1000 cleared. After I put the smaller pulley and bigger injectors on I had a local tuner dyno tune it. Its weird that his tune would now be throwing those same codes. I'm guessing something is wrong with my KB 75mm throttle body.

The problem is that your tuner doesn't have the Kenne Bell throttle calibration and that is why the codes started popping up again.

It wasn't the throttle before. Ken fixed that. Then you change calibrations and it popped back up.

I doubt your throttle is opening all the way because whoever calibrated it doesn't have the KB throttle calibration which is absolutely necessary.