hey svtp i am currently looking into building a 4.6 stroked to a 5.0 and i have some questions. a little back story on my car it currently has the trickflow 44cc heads along with comp 270 cams, full exhaust, 4.10 gears, 24lb injectors. The original idea was to build a car for boost but i decided to just go N/A since not many people build the 2vs this way. I already have a Wap block that i plan on using for this build since it is a lighter block. My questions are does anyone here run a 4.6 stroker kit and is it worth it pros vs cons? 2nd will my stock MAF, 24lb injectors, stock fuel rails, fuel pump be ok with this build? and last question would it be worth it to change out the intake manifold for maybe the victor jr or tfs intake manifolds. my plans for the car is to have a decently quick 2v that makes power throughout the powerband not just have the highest hp numbers. any help would be appreciated.
2V N/A build questions
- Thread starter egsvt98
- Start date
I had a nice long reply typed up but Tapatalk ****ed up.
1. You'll need high compression, high RPM stroker motor to make good power NA on these engines. I've read of driveability issues. Will also need to be light weight.
2. MAF, fuel pump, injectors - needs upgrading. I've read the stock rails can support 650hp.
3. Lots of info out on all the diff intakes. Call the suppliers and they might point you one direction or another.
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1. You'll need high compression, high RPM stroker motor to make good power NA on these engines. I've read of driveability issues. Will also need to be light weight.
2. MAF, fuel pump, injectors - needs upgrading. I've read the stock rails can support 650hp.
3. Lots of info out on all the diff intakes. Call the suppliers and they might point you one direction or another.
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I planned on running 10:5:1 since here in PA we have 93 octane. I've also read that the stroker kits have reliability issues and that's why I was asking if anyone here has done one and has put good miles on it and if it's worth it. If it's not worth it I will just be going with a high compression 4.6 but since both kits are similar in price I wanted to do some research on them. For the intake manifold question I have talked to multiple companies and all of them say their intake works well with this setup but reading people's reviews on some of the intakes makes me want to stay away. For this setup I do have a Walboro 255 pump I will use if need be but I'm not sure which injectors would work better.
Not many people do it because it is hard to make big hp N/A on the 4.6 2v platform. There are some driveability concerns, which will vary based on how well the tuner does, and your tolerance level, as with anything else.
Biggest argument for a stroked N/A 4.6 is if you plan to do some competitive road racing with the car and that combo puts you at the right hp/weight ratio for that class.
There was a thread on modular fords years ago when the TFS heads came out that someone made just over 400 rwhp, but had like a 13.5 compression ratio and ran E85. Not sure how streetable that was.
Its just so easy to find a 3k supercharger kit or forge the internals and boost and make 420+ hp easily and safely.
Biggest argument for a stroked N/A 4.6 is if you plan to do some competitive road racing with the car and that combo puts you at the right hp/weight ratio for that class.
There was a thread on modular fords years ago when the TFS heads came out that someone made just over 400 rwhp, but had like a 13.5 compression ratio and ran E85. Not sure how streetable that was.
Its just so easy to find a 3k supercharger kit or forge the internals and boost and make 420+ hp easily and safely.
Hello egsvt98/SVT, you have a good set of heads to start with.
Though you don't mention the runner size.(depending on the combo that may or may not be an issue)
If your going n/a and your trying to make the most out of it I would recommend more cui and more compression.
We have build 450+HP 281 cui 2v's in the past and with a 320-326cui engine with more compression 500+ is doable.
I properly engineered stroker kit like we offer with the correct piston design in it does not experience the same durability issues other vendors or older components face.
You will need to make your mod list around your target goals.
The injector, MAF, fuel pump and other supporting equipment all need to compliment each other.
We are a huge fan of the Injector Dynamics pieces and can offer those to you as well.
Items such as the correct header type and style, camshaft, intake and t/b are all critical to a solid running street car.
I can not stress this enough COMBO,COMBO,COMBO
Though you don't mention the runner size.(depending on the combo that may or may not be an issue)
If your going n/a and your trying to make the most out of it I would recommend more cui and more compression.
We have build 450+HP 281 cui 2v's in the past and with a 320-326cui engine with more compression 500+ is doable.
I properly engineered stroker kit like we offer with the correct piston design in it does not experience the same durability issues other vendors or older components face.
You will need to make your mod list around your target goals.
The injector, MAF, fuel pump and other supporting equipment all need to compliment each other.
We are a huge fan of the Injector Dynamics pieces and can offer those to you as well.
Items such as the correct header type and style, camshaft, intake and t/b are all critical to a solid running street car.
I can not stress this enough COMBO,COMBO,COMBO
Yea DHG1078 I know it would be easier to go with boost but I'm not looking to have a high HP car just something that gets up and goes. I know that it is hard to make NA power out of the 2v just want to be different with my build. The car will not see much road racing the car is mainly a "Sunday cruiser" and maybe sees the drag strip maybe 3 times a year
If you never intend to have more than 400 rwhp, it could be a fun option. 350-400rwhp can be a blast in a 3300 lb car. Definitely plenty fast for driving around. Its hard to beat an NA power band too.
Definitely do some searching on this forum, and some other mustang forums. People have done it, just not the most popular option. They usually have to spin lots of rpm to get those power numbers too.
Definitely do some searching on this forum, and some other mustang forums. People have done it, just not the most popular option. They usually have to spin lots of rpm to get those power numbers too.
Thank you for the info the kit I was looking at was from modular head shop but I will be looking at your kits as well as long as they have the valve reliefs for the tfs heads. Also I've been trying to research which parts will compliment each other but since nobody really builds NA 2vs it is hard to find any info on which parts will go well the intake runners on my heads are the 185s and along with the comp 270 cams I was looking at switching them for a cam designed for the heads. The intake, throttle body and plenum is a k&n intake with the SR 75mm setup with Mac long tubes.
I was just going to say make sure you have cams ground for the TFS heads as they take a custom grind.
I plan on doing some research if I can find some threads of these types of builds mainly the advantage I should have building an NA car is being lighter and which is why I went with a tubular k member and a rear seat delete. I plan on taking more weight out by replacing the seats to something lighter and also the WAP aluminum block is one of the lighter modular blocks weighing in at around 85lbs. I don't want to go heavy with the weigh reduction since I still want to have A/C, power steering and a spare tire.
If I was planning boost I would have went with the teksid but any bit of weight shed off helps a lot and I'm sure that whichever build I choose either the stroker or a high compression 4.6 that it will make me happy just the one piece I can't find any info on is if it is worth it to change the intake manifolds they all have their own pros and cons and no one has used one on a N/A build
I don't know if we have what your looking at advertised on our site as the marketing guys are targeting products from the newest offerings to the older stuff. They may not have made it that far back in models as of yet.
We can offer anything from a 281 to a 326 on a rotator traditional pistons or the trickflow specifics.
We have assembly's rated from 750 hp rated to 2000+
You need to decide if your going big bore or sticking to a .005-.020" overbore.(only ok N/A on the .020" o.e. liner)
this would dictate runner size, intake type, t/b size, primary tube diameter and camshaft profile.
Just like any other engine project parts choices would need to be made off of budget, carry over parts you are stubborn on using(most of the time this is a negative as changing one ingredient in the food makes it no longer palatable) and time frame.
If you are after the best Modular 4.6l based block you would obtain a 3v block. Texids are fine but generally overpriced and not as strong as the 3v by a bit
Teksid blocks can be picked up for 350 and can hold over 1k HP.
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Most of these that show up at the shop do not clean up in the .005" or less range.
If you do get a good one they are solid and we have no troubles using them for customers.
We do not rate any o.e. liner blocks over 1000 hp reliably.
what some guys get away with HP #'s wise in their turbo lightweight racears is not gospel for street cars
We want people to put their stuff together and get several years of enjoyment out of them before refresh.
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