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2011-2014 Mustangs
Engine/Tuning
2018 intake manifold
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<blockquote data-quote="Bill@HPTuners" data-source="post: 15873405" data-attributes="member: 160581"><p>ok so here we go pictures can be found here <a href="https://photos.app.goo.gl/0tKNfAMvTHLmJZH62" target="_blank">https://photos.app.goo.gl/0tKNfAMvTHLmJZH62</a></p><p></p><p>I will try to make a formal how do in word with the pictures integrated in or something but basically this is how it went</p><p></p><p>I prepped the 2018 intake by removing all the crap on the back of it for IMRC</p><p>If you don't already know 11-14's do not have IMRC so this stuff MUST be removed for our cars</p><p>You will need c clip pliers to remove a couple of c clips in the back as well as a T25 torx bit to remove the 8 screws</p><p>Using (1) 11" ziptie I locked the passenger side IMRC open</p><p>Using (1) 8" ziptie I locked the drivers side IMRC open</p><p>Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the back of the intake</p><p>Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the front of the intake</p><p>I have a custom PCV setup so I simply reused the PCV cap from the procharger setup and used the supplied worm clamp</p><p></p><p>Next you will need to remove your stock intake & fuel rails</p><p>If you haven't done so already remove your strut tower brace(if so equipped) and your engine cover</p><p>To do this unclip the fuel pump module in your trunk near your spare tire </p><p>Go into the vehicle and attempt to start it, mine typically doesn't start, yours might start and then die, then try starting again, this will relieve the majority of fuel pressure in the rails</p><p>Undo the intake at the TB and move to the side</p><p>Unplug the EVAP connector, Throttle body connector and the fuel rail(make sure to put a rag under the fuel rail connection to catch excess fuel)</p><p>Remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding down the vacuum line to the brake canister and unplug this line near the Throttle body, you will need some needle nose pliers for this more than likely I used some 90* needle nose and they work flawlessly.</p><p>Remove the passenger & driver side heater hose standoffs and set to the side they will be reused</p><p>Remove the Injector rail insulators and set to the side they will be reused</p><p>Remove the (4) 8?mm bolts holding the injector rails down</p><p>Remove the injector rails w/injectors and put to the side, be careful as there will still be quite a bit of fuel in the rail that can come out of the feed portion if you hold it wrong during removal</p><p>Remove the (6) 8?mm bolts holding the intake down, these bolts are permanently connected to the intake via sleeves so don't worry about them dropping anywhere.</p><p>Remove the EVAP module by removing the (2) 10?mm bolts and the factory hose and set to the side</p><p>Start removing the intake manifold at this point, you will only be able to move it a few inches up and forward, you will need good lighting and an extra set of hands as there are (4) connections at the back that will need to be removed using a panel clip removal tool</p><p>Once removed the intake should come out fairly easily </p><p>Remove the Throttle Body from the intake by removing the (4) 8?mm bolts, you will reuse these bolts so keep them with the Throttle Body</p><p>Put the intake to the side just in case something goes wrong with your installation</p><p>Put the Throttle Body onto the 2018 intake manifold, WARNING! I had to flip mine 180* as the wiring would not reach, though I've seen others where it has reached so test fit the wiring in particular first if you plan to leave it in the stock position.</p><p></p><p>Next you will need to test fit the intake </p><p>Using an extra set of hands lower the intake into place </p><p>WARNING!!! check the clearance on the drivers side farthest front bolt, there is a coolant housing bolt that interfered with my installation and I had to dremel down my brand new intake several MM to get it to fit, you can see the issue and the clearancing in the pictures.</p><p>I only found I had to clearance it once I started tightening down the six bolts so be very careful at that drivers front bolt</p><p>Once clearanced and you've properly torqued down the intake using the specs in the pictures you can start buttoning things up</p><p>Connect the Throttle Body connector</p><p>Connect/Tighten the intake hose to the Throttle Body</p><p>Connect the Vacuum hose to the larger port on the Throttle Body(next to the PCV port)</p><p>Connect the EVAP connector to the module, position your module how you'd like and using the 3/8" hose and (2) smaller worm clamps connect the EVAP to the smaller port on the intake next to the Vacuum hose you connected in the previous step, reconnect the stock line to the EVAP module and the C Clip to hold it in place.</p><p>Reinstall the injector rails and injectors, make sure to lube the orings with a fingertip of fresh oil</p><p>Tighten down their 4 bolts</p><p>Reinstall the heater hose standoffs and vacuum hose hardline using the 4 nuts you removed earlier.</p><p>Reconnect the fuel pump module in the trunk</p><p></p><p>Next comes the tuning part</p><p>If you have a base tune to throw in do it now, obviously I use HP Tuners and do my own tuning</p><p>However once I connected the fuel pump module I ran a test, I primed the system 2x and started the car, it started, ran & idled at lambda 1.0 without issue, I have a good strong feeling the car would probably run just fine without any further modifications IMHO.</p><p>From there I simply changed the intake manifold volume from the stock value of 11.1L to the 12.5L listed in every 2018 Mustang file and flashed that in.</p><p></p><p>Took the car out for a drive, felt no noticeable loss of low end tq and SOTP felt like it pulled a little better up top, 60hp SOTP feel eh, who knows. Time will tell as theres a dyno day at the place where I dynoed the car last when I made 578/465 to the wheels so it should be a very good comparison, not the same day but at least the same dyno.</p><p></p><p>I was really hoping to work something out with the guys from the tuning school but we had conflicting schedules and I had the day off today so rather than twiddling my thumbs I figured I just do the install & write up myself.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I believe that's it but if I left anything out please let me know.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bill@HPTuners, post: 15873405, member: 160581"] ok so here we go pictures can be found here [URL]https://photos.app.goo.gl/0tKNfAMvTHLmJZH62[/URL] I will try to make a formal how do in word with the pictures integrated in or something but basically this is how it went I prepped the 2018 intake by removing all the crap on the back of it for IMRC If you don't already know 11-14's do not have IMRC so this stuff MUST be removed for our cars You will need c clip pliers to remove a couple of c clips in the back as well as a T25 torx bit to remove the 8 screws Using (1) 11" ziptie I locked the passenger side IMRC open Using (1) 8" ziptie I locked the drivers side IMRC open Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the back of the intake Using (1) 5/16 rubber cap cap the vacuum hole at the front of the intake I have a custom PCV setup so I simply reused the PCV cap from the procharger setup and used the supplied worm clamp Next you will need to remove your stock intake & fuel rails If you haven't done so already remove your strut tower brace(if so equipped) and your engine cover To do this unclip the fuel pump module in your trunk near your spare tire Go into the vehicle and attempt to start it, mine typically doesn't start, yours might start and then die, then try starting again, this will relieve the majority of fuel pressure in the rails Undo the intake at the TB and move to the side Unplug the EVAP connector, Throttle body connector and the fuel rail(make sure to put a rag under the fuel rail connection to catch excess fuel) Remove the (4) 10mm nuts holding down the vacuum line to the brake canister and unplug this line near the Throttle body, you will need some needle nose pliers for this more than likely I used some 90* needle nose and they work flawlessly. Remove the passenger & driver side heater hose standoffs and set to the side they will be reused Remove the Injector rail insulators and set to the side they will be reused Remove the (4) 8?mm bolts holding the injector rails down Remove the injector rails w/injectors and put to the side, be careful as there will still be quite a bit of fuel in the rail that can come out of the feed portion if you hold it wrong during removal Remove the (6) 8?mm bolts holding the intake down, these bolts are permanently connected to the intake via sleeves so don't worry about them dropping anywhere. Remove the EVAP module by removing the (2) 10?mm bolts and the factory hose and set to the side Start removing the intake manifold at this point, you will only be able to move it a few inches up and forward, you will need good lighting and an extra set of hands as there are (4) connections at the back that will need to be removed using a panel clip removal tool Once removed the intake should come out fairly easily Remove the Throttle Body from the intake by removing the (4) 8?mm bolts, you will reuse these bolts so keep them with the Throttle Body Put the intake to the side just in case something goes wrong with your installation Put the Throttle Body onto the 2018 intake manifold, WARNING! I had to flip mine 180* as the wiring would not reach, though I've seen others where it has reached so test fit the wiring in particular first if you plan to leave it in the stock position. Next you will need to test fit the intake Using an extra set of hands lower the intake into place WARNING!!! check the clearance on the drivers side farthest front bolt, there is a coolant housing bolt that interfered with my installation and I had to dremel down my brand new intake several MM to get it to fit, you can see the issue and the clearancing in the pictures. I only found I had to clearance it once I started tightening down the six bolts so be very careful at that drivers front bolt Once clearanced and you've properly torqued down the intake using the specs in the pictures you can start buttoning things up Connect the Throttle Body connector Connect/Tighten the intake hose to the Throttle Body Connect the Vacuum hose to the larger port on the Throttle Body(next to the PCV port) Connect the EVAP connector to the module, position your module how you'd like and using the 3/8" hose and (2) smaller worm clamps connect the EVAP to the smaller port on the intake next to the Vacuum hose you connected in the previous step, reconnect the stock line to the EVAP module and the C Clip to hold it in place. Reinstall the injector rails and injectors, make sure to lube the orings with a fingertip of fresh oil Tighten down their 4 bolts Reinstall the heater hose standoffs and vacuum hose hardline using the 4 nuts you removed earlier. Reconnect the fuel pump module in the trunk Next comes the tuning part If you have a base tune to throw in do it now, obviously I use HP Tuners and do my own tuning However once I connected the fuel pump module I ran a test, I primed the system 2x and started the car, it started, ran & idled at lambda 1.0 without issue, I have a good strong feeling the car would probably run just fine without any further modifications IMHO. From there I simply changed the intake manifold volume from the stock value of 11.1L to the 12.5L listed in every 2018 Mustang file and flashed that in. Took the car out for a drive, felt no noticeable loss of low end tq and SOTP felt like it pulled a little better up top, 60hp SOTP feel eh, who knows. Time will tell as theres a dyno day at the place where I dynoed the car last when I made 578/465 to the wheels so it should be a very good comparison, not the same day but at least the same dyno. I was really hoping to work something out with the guys from the tuning school but we had conflicting schedules and I had the day off today so rather than twiddling my thumbs I figured I just do the install & write up myself. I believe that's it but if I left anything out please let me know. [/QUOTE]
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