2014 GT Auto build advice for CA car

SD_Stang

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Hello so this is my 3rd coyote.... My first was an 11 then sold for a 14 both were 3:73 Brembo Cars M6. I had a moment of weakness and sold the 14 for a 15 Focus ST but after a year of Sellers Remorse when I saw a low Mile (13.9k)14 GT Premium Auto (just Shaker 500, Leather, Heated Seats but no touch screen, back up camera) in Sterling Grey Metallic I couldn't pass on it.

The Car has the base 19 inch wheels with the 245/45 19's Stock gears 3.15's, stock exhaust, stock everything.


The first thing I noticed about the auto is it doesn't have the wheel hop like a stock manual and hooks up really well for the cookie cutter tires it has.

Suspension I'll be going Full BMR Rear and Front (No Anti Roll Bar, I'll keep the stock bars for now)
LCA's, UCA, Bracket, Relocation Brackets, Panhard Bar & Brace, Viking Double Adjustable shocks, Strange Single Adjustable struts up front, K-Member, A-Arms, Radiator Support and Brace, with Maximum Motorsport CC Plates.

Exhaust will be Magnaflow X Pipe (after cat) with JPC Over Axles into GT500 Mufflers.

Question here is at the time of K-member install are shorty's going to see any gains? If so which brand they have to be Carb Legal.

For intake I plan on just going Airaid intake tube and a good dry flow filter. Possibly BBK Throttle Body as it has factory electronics and shouldn't need to be tuned for the car ideas on this?


For extra weight reduction I will ditch the spare and all parts of it and go with a light weight battery but I have not researched how effective they are for a DD any issues?

Wheels will likely be Forgestars with some MPSS at least a 275 or wider.

Tune will likely come from AED to finish it off. Goal is to reach 11's for a DD/Street car and pass smog with reverting the tune and possibly change out a Throttle Body. I won't be going with an off road mid pipe as much as I know that may be the difference in meeting my goal but I think the improvements should get me in the ballpark. As the car is a DD I'm not sure how a converter would play in stop and go traffic and I have seen Kelly@BMR have success with the stock converter stock gear.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

Bgoins

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Sounds like a fun build. How much weight reduction would you see by swapping out your stock battery?
Also as far as I know the BBK throttle body scores kinda low on the bang-for-your-buck scale.
 

5lho

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11s would be easy on a converter and tune, with a sticky tire. It's the gnat's butthole tight converter that holds the car back at the strip, more than anything.
 

KushBandit

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Shorty headers won't gain you anything, the stock tri-y shorty headers that come on the car won't hold you back until your North of 600rwhp.

I vote for a new converter.
 

SD_Stang

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I know some of these mods will be minor for the cost but it's California and Smog so even if it's 5 horsepower for 500.00 it's worth looking into from my perspective if it will keep the car legal and improve. The Battery I believe is a 30-32 lbs savings over the stock one. Per an old thread "Lithium Prop C680 Lithium Ion battery + Baschur tray. Call Baschur Racing - Jarrod - 440-839-1900. Saves over 21lbs. " So with the BMR goodies I'd be close to 75lbs off the front end plus a DS and other goodies which will likely net 120+ off the car in good places.

On the Converter how are it's street manners? The car is a DD and which Circle D converter ? If anyone has a link to good read on them I'd appreciate it.
 

KushBandit

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When I say the stock headers are fine, I mean they can not be beat unless you went with long tube headers. No shorty header will beat the factory shorty headers.

The street manners of a converter depend on who is tuning it. You'll hardly notice it if it's tuned properly. Driving slowly in a parking lot will be a tad tougher.
 

AutoRed5.0

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Kooks Super Street Headers are actually proven to be the only shorty headers that's putting numbers very close to long tube headers
I highly recommend you looking into those of you want Shorty's
 

KushBandit

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Kooks Super Street Headers are actually proven to be the only shorty headers that's putting numbers very close to long tube headers
I highly recommend you looking into those of you want Shorty's

Yup, you're right. I forgot about the Kooks Shorty's. I don't know any GTs with them, but a few Boss 302s have made about 10rwhp and 20rwhp/TQ through the power band.

Last I heard, Kooks were trying to get a CARB# in 2014 for the headers but I can't find one anywhere.
 

Sizeth3

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When you switch tunes, your car will no longer hookup in 1st or on the shift from 1st to 2nd, just a heads up :). The auto cars pickup a bunch from a tune.
 

2013GT'ed

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Yeah, your going to have to watch it when your tuned. Totally different drive for the autos. I can blow 1st and most of second away, as well as get really wily on the kick downs to second.
 

SD_Stang

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When you switch tunes, your car will no longer hookup in 1st or on the shift from 1st to 2nd, just a heads up :). The auto cars pickup a bunch from a tune.

Yea I'm guess the 245/45 19's will be lacking once it gets a tune. I'll likely do the tune and converter at the same time. It took 285/35's RE-11's to get my manual 3.73 gear to get traction in 1st "most" of the time. So with a proper suspension as I listed above will it need a drag radial with a Converter?

Would a nice 295 or 305 MPSS be up to the task or would it require an R888/555R style tire to put it down? The reason I ask is the local 1/8 mile track is more or less on pavement without fantastic prep. The closest 1/4 mile track would be a 2 hour drive north which I'll visit once the car is seeing decent times in the 1/8.

On the Circle D's I see the 2C, 3C etc the Stall appears to be only a few 100-200 RPM difference is their any major difference between a 2C and the 4C? Chris mentioned in an older post he felt the 4C was great for a DD/NA Car.
 

slofoshow

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The major difference between the 2C & 4C is stall speed of which the 4C will have a higher stall speed. As to what converter to get, that all depends on what your plans are for the car. Most would recommend a 5C for max N/A builds but if boost or the bottle is in your future then a 2C, 3C, or 4C would work well depending on which route you plan to take. If I go from what your initial post describes, a 4C or 5C would fit the bill nicely.
 

5lho

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I don't think you need 5c to hit 11s and the streetability is getting stretched. You just need to get about 4K on the tacho at launch, a sticky tire and a tune to hit 11s on a fully loaded car. That's what I did on my manual 12 so, it should track to the auto as well.
 

SD_Stang

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The major difference between the 2C & 4C is stall speed of which the 4C will have a higher stall speed. As to what converter to get, that all depends on what your plans are for the car. Most would recommend a 5C for max N/A builds but if boost or the bottle is in your future then a 2C, 3C, or 4C would work well depending on which route you plan to take. If I go from what your initial post describes, a 4C or 5C would fit the bill nicely.

Yea, as much as I want to go FI I'm not going for 10's just looking for a fast street car that will surprise a lot of people with running solid 11's all day. 4C seems like the way to go with the money I would have wasted on shorty headers and a throttle body that only puts my build up a 300-400 dollars for a much more noticeable upgrade. I've see some in the 11's with just a DR tune and converter I'm going with a DS, full adjustable suspension and a little weight reduction so I should get there. Thanks for the assistance.

Of course if that new 2.9 Whipple gets a Carb number I would certainly start saving my pennies.
 

kingcobra323

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My car is kinda what you want. And I'm in cali. Mid to 11s. Stock mani, airaid, 3c, alum ds, tune, e85, suspensionand weight out. It really surprises people

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