2013 PP GT500 Quest for 9s

pierce88

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
198
Location
Tampa, Florida
I thought I would start a thread to document the car and the long trek towards the coveted 9 Second Pass. I have modeled alot of what I have added to my car based on suggestions and tips for Alkz. He has some very extensive threads on here and has been extremely helpful through messenger answering my questions. While I know I am a long way from the 9's currently everyone needs a goal and this is mine! I would really like to do it on the stock blower (Maybe go the ported route) and there is no doubt in my mind I'll have to switch to e85 or Race fuel.

Short Term Goal: 10.5X@13X on 93oct.
Long Term Goal: 9.XX@14X on e85 or Race Gas

Fastest Pass the car made was many mods ago (August 2016) was 11.3@123 with a 1.80 60'. This was on the stock clutch and gears with the 20" Drag Radials (Intake, 2.4" Pulley, 90mm idler pulley, O/R X-Pipe, Email Tune). Car was getting major belt slip and the clutch was slipping as my stock mph was 125.

Headed to PBIR on Friday 2/24 for some test hits prior to going to Bradenton for the NMRA Spring Break Shootout on March 3rd to run in True Street (And hopefully the Stick Shift Shootout!).

Here is the car as it currently stands:

Car Information:
Black with Red Stripes 2013 Shelby GT500 ~30k Miles
SVT 20th Anniversary Package with Lighted Door Sills
Performance Pack
Factory Recaro Seats with Red Stitching and Cobra Logo
Shaker 1000 Audio System (Sub Currently Removed)
13/14 Front Lip Extension
Shelby OEM Car Cover

Mods:
SCT X4 with Palm Beach Dyno Tune (Ken is the man!)
JLT Race Red 123mm Intake
VMP 2.4" Pulley
VMP 90mm Idler Pulley
VMP Twin 67mm Throttle Body
Metco Auxillary Idler Pulley (I was getting major Belt Slip without this)
JBA 2-Piece Stainless Catless H-Pipe
Ford Racing 3.73 Gears
McLeod RXT
Braided Stainless Steal Clutch Line
BBR Billet Rear Lower Control Arms
Viking Warrior Drag Shocks (Currently Set to 5c/7r)
UPR Driveshaft Loop
UPR Lower Control Arm Relocation brackets (Currently set to Middle Hole)
MGW Gen 2 with Cobra Shift Ball
BPS Rear Break Kit with Relocation Brackets (To allow 15" Wheels to Clear)
JPC Line Lock Kit
Reische 170* Thermostat
CFM Passenger Side Valve Cover Breather
Brisk Racing Spark Plugs GR12YS Silver (Gapped to .028)
Nitto NT555R Drag Radials 305/35r20 on Stock Wheels
Race Star 15x10 & 18x5 Drag Setup
Hoosier QTPs (Bias Ply, DOT Approved) 29x11.50r15
M&H Front Runners (28x4.5r18)
Ceramic Brake Pads
JLT Radiator Cover Painted to Match
JLT Passenger Side Catch Can (Anodized Black Finish)
Redline Tuning Hood Struts
Diode Dynamics LED Package (Map Lights, License Plate Lights)
Shorty Antenna




image2.jpg

image3.jpg

image4.jpg

image5.jpg


2017.01.27%20Dyno%20Sheet.jpg
 
Last edited:

paluka21

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
2,599
Location
Maryland
With the set up you have now you should be 10.5's or better in good air assuming you're quick at shifting or know how to power shift.
 

pierce88

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
198
Location
Tampa, Florida
With the set up you have now you should be 10.5's or better in good air assuming you're quick at shifting or know how to power shift.

That would be ideal!!! I'll also take any tips I can get to put it there.

Good luck should be interesting how she launches with the Hoosiers.

Final long term goal : 8.xx you'll need to perform an LS swap.

Before all the fanboys get up in arms this is my buddy. We converted him from 2 GM cars (87 Grand National, 99 FRC Vette) to 2 SVT vehicles in the last 6mo (03 Cobra, 04 Lightning).

-Pierce
 

paluka21

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
2,599
Location
Maryland
That would be ideal!!! I'll also take any tips I can get to put it there.



Before all the fanboys get up in arms this is my buddy. We converted him from 2 GM cars (87 Grand National, 99 FRC Vette) to 2 SVT vehicles in the last 6mo (03 Cobra, 04 Lightning).

-Pierce

Practice getting the car off the line. Most people I see drag race these cars struggle with bogging and/or spinning off the line. It's definitely a technique with the weight and clutch in these cars to get a smooth launch and transition into WOT.
 

pierce88

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
198
Location
Tampa, Florida
Practice getting the car off the line. Most people I see drag race these cars struggle with bogging and/or spinning off the line. It's definitely a technique with the weight and clutch in these cars to get a smooth launch and transition into WOT.

That's why I went for the bias Ply. Plan is to dump and go from 3500rpm.

-Pierce
 

paluka21

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
2,599
Location
Maryland
That's why I went for the bias Ply. Plan is to dump and go from 3500rpm.

-Pierce

You will probably still have to slip the clutch some launching at 3500rpm, or else you'll bog.
The thing I see often with people when they drag race these cars, is they try to keep throwing power at them hoping for better results. The key is to keep practicing and maximize the potential the car has, and -then- step up in power. Suspension and traction of obvious keys, as is removing the clutch protection feature because that causes bogging in itself once the computer detects slippage.
I don't say all this from personal experience racing this particular car, because I don't. But I've drag raced at tracks for many years with previous stick shift cars.
I use this video as an example (from member njtony) who has/had his launching technique nailed, which results in the full capability of the car. Notice the smooth transition from launch into WOT without bog. That's the key.
 
Last edited:

pierce88

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
198
Location
Tampa, Florida
You will probably still have to slip the clutch some launching at 3500rpm, or else you'll bog.
The thing I see often with people when they drag race these cars, is they try to keep throwing power at them hoping for better results. The key is to keep practicing and maximize the potential the car has, and -then- step up in power. Suspension and traction of obvious keys, as is removing the clutch protection feature because that causes bogging in itself once the computer detects slippage.
I don't say all this from personal experience racing this particular car, because I don't. But I've drag raced at tracks for many years with previous stick shift cars.

Yea obviously going to take some work hence the reason for getting the test passes in this weekend before Bradenton. The 3500rpm came from what ALLKZ recommended with the 29" tires and 3.73s. Idk if you have seen the videos of his passes but I didn't see any issues with bogging on the dump. He was making 720whp on Race Gas so if it bogs I may have to step it up to 3700-3800 (According to my dyno this car is making 690 ft/lbs at 3500 and almost 470whp).

I completely agree with not needing to add any more power. Car is already crazy fast and I honestly added intake, pulley TB, tune, and then turned to suspenion, brakes, Wheels and Tires. I really don't think there is any reason this car can't go 9s with just some e85 (Along with BAP/Injectors), some seat time, and maybe some suspension tweaks (Upper control arm could be in my future).

Only time shall tell! I know Ken from PBD will likely be at the track so we'll also take some data logs and make sure everything is going smooth through the power band and evaluate some shift points.

Can't wait for Friday!

-Pierce
 

paluka21

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
2,599
Location
Maryland
Every car is different, and if he's at 720rwhp conservatively, his car should be easier to launch.
Was he running a line lock? Hitting off some type of limiter on launch:
 

pierce88

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
198
Location
Tampa, Florida
Every car is different, and if he's at 720rwhp conservatively, his car should be easier to launch.
Was he running a line lock? Hitting off some type of limiter on launch:

He's running a line lock (For the Burnout), and the N2MB Wide Open Throttle box and using the 2-Step Feature as well as the no-lift shifts during the run.

I Plan to use the factory 2-Step which limits spark and fuel to hold the RPM at 3500. If I bog I am going to have to try and blip the throttle to 3500 and go. Definitely a learning process but should be much better than running on the 20" wheels and drag radials. I know NJTony made some good passes with that setup but it sure wasn't working for me.

-Pierce
 

paluka21

Well-Known Member
Established Member
Joined
Aug 24, 2004
Messages
2,599
Location
Maryland
He's running a line lock (For the Burnout), and the N2MB Wide Open Throttle box and using the 2-Step Feature as well as the no-lift shifts during the run.

I Plan to use the factory 2-Step which limits spark and fuel to hold the RPM at 3500. If I bog I am going to have to try and blip the throttle to 3500 and go. Definitely a learning process but should be much better than running on the 20" wheels and drag radials. I know NJTony made some good passes with that setup but it sure wasn't working for me.

-Pierce

Keep posted on your progress.
 

Njtony

Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2012
Messages
339
Location
Nj
He's running a line lock (For the Burnout), and the N2MB Wide Open Throttle box and using the 2-Step Feature as well as the no-lift shifts during the run.

I Plan to use the factory 2-Step which limits spark and fuel to hold the RPM at 3500. If I bog I am going to have to try and blip the throttle to 3500 and go. Definitely a learning process but should be much better than running on the 20" wheels and drag radials. I know NJTony made some good passes with that setup but it sure wasn't working for me.

-Pierce
My best passes were made on 18 inch 305 mt drag radials on the stock 3.31 gears. Car made a best run of 10.40 1.55 sixty and mph was low 130's with same basic setup as yours. Made about 10 passes with 3.73's added in but track conditions and not wanting to fry another clutch made high tens the best I did with that setup. Don't think nines are possible without trapping at least 136-137. Most cars that trap that high have headers. Mid to low tens should be relatively easy with your setup. Good luck.
 

Beercules

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2013
Messages
491
Location
Mountains
I know of a guy who broke his torsen when he went to slicks, so watch out if you still have that. Go to a true trac or strange s-track if you want to go to 35 spline axles.
 

pierce88

Active Member
Established Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2014
Messages
198
Location
Tampa, Florida
Hey guys so here are the results!

Track was absolute mess. Several Guys oiling down the track causing 2 separate 2+ hour shut downs. (Got 3-runs in 6 hours)

So I definitely made some mistakes with Tire Pressure. Need to be running 14+ psi with the weight of these cars. The 11.1@128 pass I had about 12lbs in it. Should have been high 10's even with a 1.73 60'.

The 11.489@121 Pass there was 11lbs in the tires (WAY TOO LOW) and l lost a ton of MPH despite a 1.59' 60' (Personal Best). I do not think this 60' really had anything to do with the lower tire pressure but just a near perfect launch. I'd consider this near perfect as I do not have a 2-step so I am just blipping the throttle as close to 3500rpm as I could. With an MSD 2-Step I'd expect much more consistent results.

With everything I learned on Friday (All Nannies HAVE to be off), and the lesson in Tire pressure (3rd Pass was about 9psi tires due to temp drop @11pm, 11.4@119), I'd say mid 10s will be fairly easy to achieve with a well prepped track at Bradenton next weekend!

Here are the slips and 2 videos.



2017.02.24%2011.1128%20Time%20Slip.jpg


2017.02.24%2011.4121%201.59%2060%20Time%20Slip.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread



Top