2013-2014 GT500 Intercooler Pump upgrade - What wiring?

[TermiCustomer]

Hello all,

I saw some members on here used the 2013-2014 GT500 to upgrade from the factory Bosch. I cannot figure out what wiring I need. I understand I need a new pigtail, which I cannot determine, and I may need some larger gauge wiring.

Here is what the end of the included wiring looks like - DR3Z-141A411-C

Here is the pigtail I thought I needed to connect to that wiring - 3U2Z-14S411-ATA

 

[TermiCustomer]

Hello all,

I saw some members on here used the 2013-2014 GT500 to upgrade from the factory Bosch. I cannot figure out what wiring I need. I understand I need a new pigtail, which I cannot determine, and I may need some larger gauge wiring.

Here is what the end of the included wiring looks like - DR3Z-141A411-C

Here is the pigtail I thought I needed to connect to that wiring, but it does not fit - 3U2Z-14S411-ATA

 

[me32]

@TermiCustomer

Only make one thread asking for this. Do not clutter the forum with multiple threads. Thank you

 

[TermiCustomer]

@TermiCustomer

Only make one thread asking for this. Do not clutter the forum with multiple threads. Thank you

Sorry about that. Clicked 'post' and it did not seem to load the first time, but apparently it did

 

[me32]

Sorry about that. Clicked 'post' and it did not seem to load the first time, but apparently it did

Thanks

 

[SecondhandSnake]

Try out the one linked here- CWA50 Pump Heads Up

That's the part I used, though if you're using the Ford pump it only really needs 2 wires. I just spliced it on the old intercooler wires and it runs great. The Pierberg pump actually pulls less amps than the stock Bosch one if I'm not mistaken.

 

[TermiCustomer]

Try out the one linked here- CWA50 Pump Heads Up

That's the part I used, though if you're using the Ford pump it only really needs 2 wires. I just spliced it on the old intercooler wires and it runs great. The Pierberg pump actually pulls less amps than the stock Bosch one if I'm not mistaken.

Exactly the info I needed, thank you so much!

 

[SecondhandSnake]

Good luck and enjoy your upgrade. You'll be amazed at how much it can flow and how quiet it is.

Just keep an eye on your reservoir. That new pump can actually flow so much it will aerate the reservoir and air lock on the next startup. A larger or better baffled reservoir can fix that problem.

 

[TermiCustomer]

Good luck and enjoy your upgrade. You'll be amazed at how much it can flow and how quiet it is.

Just keep an eye on your reservoir. That new pump can actually flow so much it will aerate the reservoir and air lock on the next startup. A larger or better baffled reservoir can fix that problem.

Thank you. When you say larger reservoir, how about the typical LFP/Moroso rectangular box style reservoir? Large enough? I have the LFP. Or you think a trunk mounted one?

Besides noticing increasing water temp and/or opening the reservoir cap to check flow, is there any way to tell if it is air locked?

 

[SecondhandSnake]

It isn't as much volume as it is design. The stock reservoir has the inlet shooting in at high velocity, right at the surface which churns and aerates the coolant. A larger volume allows it to slow down and prevent aeration, but a better designed one, especially with the inlet below coolant level, will keep it from happening as well. Same goes for any kind of baffling that slows the coolant velocity. Most surge tanks are designed that way. You could substitute in any number of generic or universal ones, or even take the approach of T'ing the lines such that the tank is just a surge tank rather than a flow through type of tank. There's some Mercedes/BMW tanks like that, used with this pump, that would work well.

I haven't tried the LFP or Moroso ones. I only used my own vertical tank tucked into the fender that was around 4x the volume of the stock one and that worked perfectly.

Opening the cap and looking inside is the best way to check if it's flowing or not, especially considering how silent the pump is. You'll also notice really quickly if it's aerating the coolant when the pump is running with the cap off.

I would suggest checking it before you run the car. Jump the pump on, let it run for it a bit, let it rest, then jump it on again. If it's air locked, it won't run when you switch it back on. That's what I was seeing on mine.