Hello all, were coming into the season fast here and I would love to know what alot of you have found to be some of the best wheel/tire setups for drag racing the 2013-14 shelbys. Im looking to get setup here soon so all advice is welcome! Should I go nitto dr on my 20 inch wheel? or go 15in wheel and tire setup for more sidewall? does a 15 inch wheel even fit? or should i go 17inch setup? Thanks in advance
2013-14 Shelby GT500 Drag wheel/tire setup questions.
- Thread starter ItsReal
- Start date
You have to swap to smaller rear brakes for 15's. 17's fit.
I actually have the setup you want if you don’t want to modify anything:
Darkstar 18x5 fronts and 17x10.5 rears.
Rears are 28.5x11.5x17 MT ET Street R bias ply.
Fronts I have mounted 28” M&H bias plys but also have 26” M&H radials.
I decided to swap to lighter Wildwood brakes all around and have Weld beadlock s now.
Long story short is the most efficient way is the Dragstar/Darkstar setup as it requires no spacers.
They also make a 18x10.5” rear. I will say the 17” rear is SO close to the shock mount you’ll have to check for interference as I had slight rub on one side with strip use.
Take home point—RUN BIAS PLYS AT THE TRACK!
Drag radials will work but are a street tire for a stick car. At the strip, the bias ply will be much more consistent and save parts and possibly rear end noise.
PM me is interested in the Darkstars.
-J
Darkstar 18x5 fronts and 17x10.5 rears.
Rears are 28.5x11.5x17 MT ET Street R bias ply.
Fronts I have mounted 28” M&H bias plys but also have 26” M&H radials.
I decided to swap to lighter Wildwood brakes all around and have Weld beadlock s now.
Long story short is the most efficient way is the Dragstar/Darkstar setup as it requires no spacers.
They also make a 18x10.5” rear. I will say the 17” rear is SO close to the shock mount you’ll have to check for interference as I had slight rub on one side with strip use.
Take home point—RUN BIAS PLYS AT THE TRACK!
Drag radials will work but are a street tire for a stick car. At the strip, the bias ply will be much more consistent and save parts and possibly rear end noise.
PM me is interested in the Darkstars.
-J
This is the setup with 18” rears when I first took the car to the track modified. Ran 10.87@137 on this day.
Spinning all thru first on DRs. I drove it to track like this and on the 17” bias set, those went 10.009@145
-J
Spinning all thru first on DRs. I drove it to track like this and on the 17” bias set, those went 10.009@145
-J
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Dude! thanks for the info. Sounds like i need get that setup! plus you could give me a idea of what I should be running at the track with my mods on my 13 shelbyThis is the setup with 18” rears when I first took the car to the track modified. Ran 10.87@137 on this day.
Spinning all thru first on DRs. I drove it to track like this and on the 17” bias set, those went 10.009@145
-J
Is there any 15” wheel that will fit in the rears without having to change out to a smaller brake setup?
Absolutely not.
-J
PM on the price for the rear 17x10.5 Darkstar wheel and slick combo. Thabks
JDCOYOTE
New Member
This is the setup with 18” rears when I first took the car to the track modified. Ran 10.87@137 on this day.
Spinning all thru first on DRs. I drove it to track like this and on the 17” bias set, those went 10.009@145
-J
What springs are u running on the ur car?
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Not interested in shipping just yet.
-J
In that pic it was probably FRPP L fronts and Revan Racing Dead Hookers in rear. I now have BMR GT500 specific drag fronts.
-J
So I took your advice and bought identical setup as yours.
17x10.5 Race Star wheels with 28x11.5x17 Bias ply MT.
I am also running to the same problem. Shock is super close to wheel when I went to test fit. I’m afraid if I mount the tires it will rub. I also notice the wheel is extremely close to the sway link as well and might hit.
A few questions here. 1) what did you do to rectify this.? 2) did you have to buy wheel spacers? 3) did you relocate your sway links?
Any help from anyone right this issue will be greatly appreciated. I will start a thread as well to see if anyone else has ran into this problem. Thanks
Tire was fine. You may want to and probably should do a very minor clearance on the sway bar link that’s closest to inner wheel barrel.
I had a few street miles on them and no rubbing but driving to track and racing made only one side have a minor clearance issue and it’s probably from race launching stress and component movement. Likely same issue if you drive on the street regularly. It’s not a big deal to me and you couldn’t tell it’s been done once clearanced.
Good luck
-J
I had a few street miles on them and no rubbing but driving to track and racing made only one side have a minor clearance issue and it’s probably from race launching stress and component movement. Likely same issue if you drive on the street regularly. It’s not a big deal to me and you couldn’t tell it’s been done once clearanced.
Good luck
-J
Also, do you have an adjustable panhard rod and panhard rod support?
That is necessary to adjust and center the rear, ideally with adjustable lower control arms. The dust boot might be close but I had no stock shock issues.
There are always small adjustments to be made with aftermarket parts. The true no touch bolt on is 18” but for best strip performance you need the 17” setup you have. Every car is different, but after the minor tweaks, you’ll have the best hooking setup possible for the strip without swapping the rear brakes.
Good luck.
-J
That is necessary to adjust and center the rear, ideally with adjustable lower control arms. The dust boot might be close but I had no stock shock issues.
There are always small adjustments to be made with aftermarket parts. The true no touch bolt on is 18” but for best strip performance you need the 17” setup you have. Every car is different, but after the minor tweaks, you’ll have the best hooking setup possible for the strip without swapping the rear brakes.
Good luck.
-J
No on the adjustable pan hard. I will be ordering that today. Do you have a recommendation on a good one?
I relooked at the suspension again and yes looks like it it’s just super close to the dust cover. I will be getting adjustable shocks and it should help alot. I’m also going to relocate the sway links as well so that will be an easy fix. I ordered the thinnest wheel spacers just in case.
I was at the race track yesterday and picked a few people’s brain that had mustangs out there racing and they said it was pretty common for it to be that close. Just need extra little parts to set it up correctly. I feel much better about it now and will expedite everything and get it ready for this weekend.
I appreciate all your feedback and help Bimini... Thanks again
You’re welcome man, good luck.
-J
-J
This is the setup with 18” rears when I first took the car to the track modified. Ran 10.87@137 on this day.
Spinning all thru first on DRs. I drove it to track like this and on the 17” bias set, those went 10.009@145
-J
Hey Bimini,
Does the 17” front runner wheel not fit up front without modification? I notice you said 18’s instead? Can’t find Mickeys tire for 18’s
No the only 17” I know that fits is a custom $$$ Bogart. There are 18” front runners by MT and M&H. I run 28” tall 18” front runners
-J
-J
Bimini - Can you send me a link to the 18” front runner tires. I can find any from both brands. Thanks
I run these for the street, 28” looks best:
Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R Tires 90000032430
I used to run these but they’re 26”, I have some dismounted and would sell:
185/50R18 FRONT
And these M&H bias ply DOTs, they come on the Demon and lightest for track sets:
4.5/28-18 DOT Certified NEW Tire!
Good luck.
-J
Mickey Thompson Sportsman S/R Tires 90000032430
I used to run these but they’re 26”, I have some dismounted and would sell:
185/50R18 FRONT
And these M&H bias ply DOTs, they come on the Demon and lightest for track sets:
4.5/28-18 DOT Certified NEW Tire!
Good luck.
-J
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