2008 GT500 & 11" Wheels
- Thread starter kens88gt
- Start date
Need an adj. panhard rod to center the rear, but I run 315/35/20 NT05Rs on 20x11s.
315 is about the widest to go easily.
What wheels are you considering?
-J
315 is about the widest to go easily.
What wheels are you considering?
-J
I would say a 325 size tire which puts you just under 13 inches in tire width. I don't know about clearance on a 11 inch rim. I run a 20 x 10 in the rear.
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It's all about the offset. You have to center all that tire mass within the wheel well and still leave enough room for clearance when the axle articulates. I've got a thread in the "How To" section. While that shows the 315/35-20 I mounted, I have since migrated to 325/30-20. My wheel is the OEM SVTPP wheel widened to 11" with a 1/4" spacer. Resulting offset is +63mm. You can get by with a little less, but it moves the wheel/tire outboard. My sidewall is flush with the outer fender.
Now my car is a 2012, but from what I've read from others, the results are not that different.
Now my car is a 2012, but from what I've read from others, the results are not that different.
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Bump stop relocation is a good idea, I did it and I think Revan Racing or another supporting vendor picked up the common kit a member here developed.
It might not be 100% needed, but it's a good move.
What's your goal or use of the car?
Stock wheels widened to 11" (Weldcraft) and the common 305/315 drag radials from Nitto/MT are used by many.
-J
It might not be 100% needed, but it's a good move.
What's your goal or use of the car?
Stock wheels widened to 11" (Weldcraft) and the common 305/315 drag radials from Nitto/MT are used by many.
-J
If you remove the bump stop bracket, you risk metal to metal contact on bottoming the suspension, because the bump stop will be unable to absorb the shock if it's not relocated.
Here's why. This is from Zombeast's original thread regarding his bump stop relocation brackets.
Here's why. This is from Zombeast's original thread regarding his bump stop relocation brackets.
Thanks for the info. I found the bump stop relo bracket kit on Revan Racing. I occasionally take the car down to the track and want to improve the traction. I am around 636 rwhp. I have lower control arms, QA1 adjustable shocks, adjustable panhard bar and so forth. Thought the wider tires would help.
Thanks. A photo is worth a thousand words. Goes back to my original question that if I go with 11" wheels, does the bracket need to be removed to avoid being hit by the wider tire. I am sure others have been thru this; didn't want to learn the hard way.
Lots of guys are running big rubber without removing the bump stop brackets, but the tire side wall will contact the bracket when the axle droops. Some really wide wheels may also. Can that happen in real world driving situations, I can't answer. I wasn't willing to find out and removed the brackets. If it's making contact, I'm sure the paint will get rubbed off the bracket at the point of contact.
My understanding is that bracket is for moving the chassis in the factory before running gear is installed. Aside from serving as a contact point for the bump stop, I can't see that it serves any other useful purpose.
My understanding is that bracket is for moving the chassis in the factory before running gear is installed. Aside from serving as a contact point for the bump stop, I can't see that it serves any other useful purpose.
I run 11.5 inch wheels and 335/30/19 nitto
tires with bracket removed.
You can run 345 nitto DR as well.
I relocated the bump stops myself just used a square piece of metal and drilled 4 holes. Works perfect.
Nothing rubs while driving. Regardless of bumps.
It may rub a tad at very slow speeds if you caulk the rear axle a lot going up a driveway but it's minimal.
Love it
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tires with bracket removed.
You can run 345 nitto DR as well.
I relocated the bump stops myself just used a square piece of metal and drilled 4 holes. Works perfect.
Nothing rubs while driving. Regardless of bumps.
It may rub a tad at very slow speeds if you caulk the rear axle a lot going up a driveway but it's minimal.
Love it
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I'd love to see the 335/345 on a GT500.
I also have thought of changing from the 315/35/20 to their 345/35/19 NT05R but haven't seriously looked into it.
Any pics?
-J
And that offset is?
Steve at True Forged may know.
Tire looks great on there, sometimes I don't feel my 315s on 11s look meaty enough.
Also I'm still not sure if it's tall enough at 27.3" almost 1.5" shorter than my 315/35/20s:
http://www.nittotire.com/race-tires/nt05r-dot-compliant-competition-drag-radial-tire/
Glad to see you got the 335s to fit, thanks for the info.
Any pics outside? From farther back?
-J
Steve at True Forged may know.
Tire looks great on there, sometimes I don't feel my 315s on 11s look meaty enough.
Also I'm still not sure if it's tall enough at 27.3" almost 1.5" shorter than my 315/35/20s:
http://www.nittotire.com/race-tires/nt05r-dot-compliant-competition-drag-radial-tire/
Glad to see you got the 335s to fit, thanks for the info.
Any pics outside? From farther back?
-J
I don't for now. I would check on the nitto web site for widths your 315 may be close depending on manufacturer. I know Michelin's run bigger. The 335 and 345 dr are on 1/4 inch difference in width
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