2003cobra#2's 3.4 Whipple Build

94slowbra1

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ive talked to a couple of shops about cams and they said they can install in he car but pull the motor for degreeing. not saying it cant be done but obviously its a in in the car
 

01yellercobra

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I wouldn't want to deal with the degree wheel in the engine compartment. The extra hours pulling the engine will be worth the savings on your nerves IMO.
 

GodStang

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ive talked to a couple of shops about cams and they said they can install in he car but pull the motor for degreeing. not saying it cant be done but obviously its a in in the car


I have seen it done in a car. That being said I would never do it in a car since it is so so easy to just pick the car up off the engine, degree the cams, set car back on it and go. Much faster that way.
 

cj428mach

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I have seen it done in a car. That being said I would never do it in a car since it is so so easy to just pick the car up off the engine, degree the cams, set car back on it and go. Much faster that way.


Op will be so close to dropping the motor he should just do it. @MalcolmV8 degreed his in the car maybe he can give some advice.
 

03cobra#2

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Car is in my garage on jack stands I'm not going to pull the motor. Being a pain is OK. I have plenty of time and patience. If I get frustrated I walk away and come back the next day. I just want to make sure it is possible. I'm actually excited to tackle this. I did heads and cams in my 2v with the engine in the car but I didn't degree them.
 

GodStang

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Car is in my garage on jack stands I'm not going to pull the motor. Being a pain is OK. I have plenty of time and patience. If I get frustrated I walk away and come back the next day. I just want to make sure it is possible. I'm actually excited to tackle this. I did heads and cams in my 2v with the engine in the car but I didn't degree them.

Yes it can be physically done.
 

RichM1983

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Why is everyone being so negative about the 3.4 choice? I get it a crusher, E85 and massive boost is what it is build for.

However, can't a standard inlet at 18-20 lbs still make great power and only sacrifice a little bit down low? I mean for $2400 for a new blower with a huge potential that can still work with lower boost levels seems like a great idea to me.

What am i missing?
 

GodStang

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Why is everyone being so negative about the 3.4 choice? I get it a crusher, E85 and massive boost is what it is build for.

However, can't a standard inlet at 18-20 lbs still make great power and only sacrifice a little bit down low? I mean for $2400 for a new blower with a huge potential that can still work with lower boost levels seems like a great idea to me.

What am i missing?


Depends what you mean by great power. It will suffer down low and the added air restriction will add heat. Also the 3.4L is famous for popping cranks. Now for $2400 it may just be worth it. Just depends on the over all build. The 3.4L is a great blower even better if setup correctly which we figure people would want to do.
 

03cobra#2

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I do plan on using the stock lower caged pulley. I figured for the price of $2,400 it made more sense then doing $3,000-3,500 for a new / newer 2.9.

On a side note after doing some research online, watching a video, and talking to a master tech at my work I feel 100% better about doing the degreeing of the cams myself.
 

cj428mach

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Why is everyone being so negative about the 3.4 choice? I get it a crusher, E85 and massive boost is what it is build for.

However, can't a standard inlet at 18-20 lbs still make great power and only sacrifice a little bit down low? I mean for $2400 for a new blower with a huge potential that can still work with lower boost levels seems like a great idea to me.

What am i missing?

Problem is a 3.4 non crusher being spun 18-20 psi can probably be matched by a $2400 tvs without any of the headache. The 3.4 just really doesn't make since at all anymore. A 2.9 gen 4 would walk all over it with less headaches.
 

cj428mach

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Car is in my garage on jack stands I'm not going to pull the motor. Being a pain is OK. I have plenty of time and patience. If I get frustrated I walk away and come back the next day. I just want to make sure it is possible. I'm actually excited to tackle this. I did heads and cams in my 2v with the engine in the car but I didn't degree them.

Degreeing requires accuracy, it's nice to get a good straight look at the degree wheel. That 'll be harder in the engine bay. I had a very tough time adjusting the adjustable lash adjuster when degreeing my cams with the engine on the stand.


The best walkthrough for 4v cam degreeing is jrgoffins aluminator build. We're all sick of seeing the link posted but it was very helpful to me.
Mustang Forums and Ford Performance Forums at ModularFords
 
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03cobra#2

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Degreeing requires accuracy, it's nice to get a good straight look at the degree wheel. That 'll be harder in the engine. I had a very tough time adjusting the adjustable lash adjuster when degreeing my cams with the engine on the stand.


The best walkthrough for 4v cam degreeing is jrgoffins aluminator build. We're all sick of seeing the link posted but it was very helpful to me.
Mustang Forums and Ford Performance Forums at ModularFords
Thank you. I am currently digesting that thread as we speak. I have met him before. Super nice guy and I'll probably reach out to him.
 

03cobra#2

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Problem is a 3.4 non crusher being spun 18-20 psi can probably be matched by a $2400 tvs without any of the headache. The 3.4 just really doesn't make since at all anymore. A 2.9 gen 4 would walk all over it with less headaches.
I agree with what you are saying. I plan on spinning to to 22-25 lbs.
 

03cobra#2

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Slow and steady wins the race. Got the lower pullies off, unbolted ac, have a couple bolts left on the timing cover, pull the water pump, and the timing cover is ready to come off. Should happen tomorrow. Once I get the cover off and study everything I'll be placing my order for the cams / springs ect. I live 45 min from Summit and they stock EVERYTHING. So at least that is convenient. I'm also starting to scope out what I'll need to degree everything.
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GodStang

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Problem is a 3.4 non crusher being spun 18-20 psi can probably be matched by a $2400 tvs without any of the headache. The 3.4 just really doesn't make since at all anymore. A 2.9 gen 4 would walk all over it with less headaches.

Having run all different sizes at all different boosts I would agree with this except adding this:

(TVS, Whip, KB) 2.3/2.6 for ~8-18psi,
(KB, Whip) 2.8L, 2.9L, 3.2L for ~18-24psi, Crusher/Mammoth for ~22-26+psi
(KB, Whip) 3.4L, 3.6L, 4.0L, 4.2L for 24-32+psi Crusher/Mammoth only.
 

03cobra#2

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So it looks like 25 lbs on E85 is what I'm shooting for. Gotta find a crusher intake.

I'm wondering why Whipple would even offer a 3.4 with the standard inlet if it's so pointless to run without the crusher?
 
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cj428mach

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Maybe someone will post up info to the contrary but I bet a standard inlet will be at 750ish rwhp on high boost, something a smaller blower can do with out the hassle.
 

01yellercobra

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I wouldn't say it's pointless. But it's not using the blower to it's full potential. It really comes down to your goals. I went with the standard inlet on my 2.9 because I'll never run more than 23psi. But even with the standard inlet it hits hard.
 

GodStang

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So it looks like 25 lbs on E85 is what I'm shooting for. Gotta find a crusher intake.

I'm wondering why Whipple would even offer a 3.4 with the standard inlet if it's so pointless to run without the crusher?


Because the 3.4L was out long before everyone running E85. There was a time that very few ran 26+ psi. There was a time that for the most part the stock inlet covered most. Then the Mammoth and Behemoth came out and people started to realize there was a lot to be gained there for peeps running E85 and boost. Then Whipple added the crusher and then the TVS designed it with a much wider base inlet. You live, your learn, you design for a bigger faster ride.
 

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