2001 svt cobra-a.pod

nitemarestang

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? for ya! when installing gauges w/a pod. where the best location to run wire way,oil pressure nylon tubing,etc out into the eng. compartment ? is there a place on or near the fire wall where you don't have to drill thru or is that the only alternative? i have the c.d.service man. for the 2001 workshop information on mustang but c.d. vague on firewall,etc. information. any help would be greatful !!!!!
 

Quadcammer

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there is a huge grommet below and to the right (from the engine side) of the brake fluid resevior. just drill a hole through there and run the lines through.
 

type911

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quadcammer said:
there is a huge grommet below and to the right (from the engine side) of the brake fluid resevior. just drill a hole through there and run the lines through.


Just dont do what I did and drill into the wires. Popped a bunch of fuses because I also did not disconnect the battery. Im lucky I didn't do any real damage. Caution is needed here. Is a great spot though
 

blacksnake305

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I just did the autometer oil pressure / water temp and saleen style gauge pod in my 01' snake. Its pretty easy to do. and they work/look great. Some things to note:

Buy a plastic paint and have it color matched at a proper auto paint supplier. This was a bit of a pain, as the original spray can they created for me was about 5 shades too light. I had to take it back and had them manually tint the paint until it was spot on...
Like everyone said, use the main wiring grommet to the left of the steering column. I used a 'punch' to make the initial break then used a drill to enlarge the whole. I suggest punching the whole around 10 oclock (from inside the car). It will make it easier to grab from engine compartment.
The water gauge is a piece of cake. the sensor goes in your crossover tube. The fitting autometer supplies is a poor fit. you WILL need to use a high temp silicone to ensure it seals properly. Suggestion: cover the threads liberly and then screw into female end. Do NOT tighen yet. Mild hand tight only. Allow to dry about two hours then tighten firmly.
Oil pressure: this one is tricky: The autometer canistor/sensor will mount below the oil filter. There are two bosses. Move the dummy sensor to the other boss (facing down). Clean threads and use silicon sealant. Now the autometer cannistor/sensor will go in the forward facing boss, but the catch is it will NOT FIT. the cannistor/sensor is TOO long and will hit the power break line. I solved this issue by cutting the brass connector that screws directly into the boss. Then the cannistor screws into this. So cut the brass connector in half. Use a compressor female thread coupler to help your clean/correct the brass connector. Then the unit will just fit. Again use silicon sealant.

Grounds: I used 16 guage speaker wire (2 piece). I simply split the wire at the gauges and conneced to the metal dash support underneath.

Ignition: I used the same wire and tapped the rear defrost. This is an 'ignition/key' only power source. Its a good spot to tap.

Lighting: I tapped the air conditiong power line. So my gauges dim w/ the rest of the dash/console. I usually take pics, but didn't on this one.

GOOD LUCK!!!
 
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nitemarestang

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blacksnake305 said:
I just did the autometer oil pressure / water temp and saleen style gauge pod in my 01' snake. Its pretty easy to do. and they work/look great. Some things to note:

Buy a plastic paint and have it color matched at a proper auto paint supplier. This was a bit of a pain, as the original spray can they created for me was about 5 shades too light. I had to take it back and had them manually tint the paint until it was spot on...
Like everyone said, use the main wiring grommet to the left of the steering column. I used a 'punch' to make the initial break then used a drill to enlarge the whole. I suggest punching the whole around 10 oclock (from inside the car). It will make it easier to grab from engine compartment.
The water gauge is a piece of cake. the sensor goes in your crossover tube. The fitting autometer supplies is a poor fit. you WILL need to use a high temp silicone to ensure it seals properly. Suggestion: cover the threads liberly and then screw into female end. Do NOT tighen yet. Mild hand tight only. Allow to dry about two hours then tighten firmly.
Oil pressure: this one is tricky: The autometer canistor/sensor will mount below the oil filter. There are two bosses. Move the dummy sensor to the other boss (facing down). Clean threads and use silicon sealant. Now the autometer cannistor/sensor will go in the forward facing boss, but the catch is it will NOT FIT. the cannistor/sensor is TOO long and will hit the power break line. I solved this issue by cutting the brass connector that screws directly into the boss. Then the cannistor screws into this. So cut the brass connector in half. Use a compressor female thread coupler to help your clean/correct the brass connector. Then the unit will just fit. Again use silicon sealant.

Grounds: I used 16 guage speaker wire (2 piece). I simply split the wire at the gauges and conneced to the metal dash support underneath.

Ignition: I used the same wire and tapped the rear defrost. This is an 'ignition/key' only power source. Its a good spot to tap.

Lighting: I tapped the air conditiong power line. So my gauges dim w/ the rest of the dash/console. I usually take pics, but didn't on this one.

GOOD LUCK!!!
thx,i take ur gauges are electrical.i got mechanical how diff would the install be
 

blacksnake305

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nitemarestang said:
thx,i take ur gauges are electrical.i got mechanical how diff would the install be

yep. mine are electrical. And I dont know how different they would be... good luck
 

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