2001 Cobra swapped Terminator. NEED HELP

Codie

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Okay, so i'm new to this forum as you can see and need some help/info with a swap.


First off, I purchased a 2003 cobra motor. (bottom half) didn't have ecu or supercharger. I bought an eaton, elbow, TB, IAC, CAI, MAF, MAP sensor on ebay used and took it to a "mechanic" who I found out the hard way is pretty incompetent. He put it together the best he could, but it runs like crap. When started the car idles up to 4,000rpm and then down to 2k. then back up, and when shifted to first, stalls, bucks and all gauges act erratic, idles up to 8,000 too. Basically, I don't know if i'm missing sensors or what. there is cables that aren't plugged in and hoses just sitting there. I know the EGR valve isn't gonna work 'cause the long tubes didnt have a spot for them. Anyone have an eaton diagram/manual of all parts and sensors? Also the hoses locations too. Is this an ECU problem or could something else be causing this? Do i just need a tune or ecu or both? Need an 03 cluster too? Need to be paired with same cluster and ecu or...? Any help is much appreciated and any references to TRUSTWORTHY tuners in the OKC area would be nice. The mechanic basically said he didn't know where half the stuff went and couldn't do anymore.

Also how do i post photos?
 

Oiljunkie

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Post pictures of your issues, loose connectors, spare hoses.

Did this mechanic have any experience at all? Im a colour blind plumber with very little experience on cars. This was my first car I've ever done more then brakes on. This swap is way more difficult on a 2v car then a 99-01 4v car.

Is your car running of the tune for the NA 4v motor or have you plugged in a handheld and uploaded a tune designed for an 03/04 cobra. That could be the bulk of your problem.
 

Codie

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This is the wiring loom coming from under the CAI. I was told by the people working on the car it was for the A/C or something that didn't matter to the running. (still would like to know where to hook these up) http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=xfrqe1&s=8#.VZTfrvlVikp

This is a picture of something that needs two hoses going to it, I just dont know where from and where to. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=23mmwxg&s=8#.VZTg8_lViko

Here are two loose hoses, I believe are just coming from the EGR which doesn't come into play if so. (aren't factory hoses just something they stuck there)
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=qoanx4&s=8#.VZThWflViko

Have no idea where these go, I'm sure anyone with a factory termi setup could help me out.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=6hq7q1&s=8#.VZTiDflViko

Another plug. http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2ah5hrb&s=8#.VZTiV_lViko

Also, I am running this car with whatever tune it had from the previous engine, Can't say it was factory. I recently bought the car and it had alot of miles. However, yes it was an 01 naturally aspirated car before. Bone stock motor. I wasn't aware of handheld tuners being able to tune it, thought I would need a dyno tune? Could you point me in the right direction?

Also, thanks a lot for responding. :)

Edit: looking at the links they appear to be blank.. dunno what the problem is. gonna reupload elsewhere in same order and post link here in case original aren't working..

Alrighty, they seem to be working after right clicking and hitting reload. Sorry about the confusion.
 
Last edited:

Oiljunkie

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run a search for EGR delete, and how to properly run the boost lines. that will help out with the boost bypass valve and the wiring on that side.

In the first picture the largest plug attaches to the AC system. there will be a plug on a line right near your intake. the other plugs plug in under your intake.

That swap is an absolute mess. Its not a lot of work to get it sorted out. If you lived close by i would come and do it with ya, but unfortunatly thats not the case.

as for the tune. don't even start the car again without a start up tune and all vacuum lines run and plugs connected. Contact a good tuner, purchase a handheld from them and ask them to write you a start up tune.

PM me your # and i can get some picture for you and text them to ya. Ill try to walk you through as much as i can.

READ ALL THESE LINKS:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/showthread.php?839729-How-to-Eaton-swap-intercooler-pump-wiring
https://docs.google.com/document/d/...hhfANqyQig8D4Y0/mobilebasic?pli=1&viewopt=127
http://mach1registry.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74676
http://reischeperformance.com/refill
 

Codie

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Ended up hauling the car to Texas to Gearheads performance of Arlington. I don't feel like I got what I paid for and is certainly not what I was hoping for. The car is running and it runs very well, I'm happy about that. But, also a few problems arose. The speedometer no longer works (never had that problem before), the miles never go up on the car. I drove 400+ and it hasn't moved. The car will die when started Cold unless given gas and kept up to 800RPM or better. It just idles down to 600-400-200-dies. I believe it's a vacuum leak? Because once it is warmed up the car will stay running fine and give no problems at all. It seems to also be getting full power. 2nd gear is also grinding now when shifting into it and will occasionally pop out of it. I've been starting off in either 1st to third or just starting with third gear. I'm guessing the synchronizers are worn? Any input on this would be appreciated. (I may start new thread). I ended up paying $2,000 and all they did was put on my wiring harness from the 01 and wire the alternator, plus Dyno. Feel like that was about twice what it was worth.
 

01yellercobra

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We never feel like we got our money's worth when the project doesn't feel completed. Around here a dyno tune is $400-$600 depending on if you have your own hand held or not. So take that into consideration. And I'm sure the hourly rate isn't cheap and they were starting with a project that someone else half assed.

A vacuum leak wouldn't go away when the car is warmed up. It sounds like the cold start needs some work. Are you still running the 3650 or did you swap to the T-56? The speed sensor might be unplugged at the trans. If you have an aftermarket shifter make sure the stops are out of the way. If they're out too far it can keep the trans from going into gear completely.
 

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