Let me start this off by saying that there are a lot of different ways you can do a Coyote swap and the way I did it is not the only way. Do your research and decide what's best for you...
I decided on going with a Gen. 2 engine because it's more stout than the Gen. 1's and the price difference wasn't that big. I didn't like the Gen. 3's because there were a lot of problems with noisey valvetrains and lower ends, oil consumption, and the aftermarket tuning wasn't as developed compared to the Gen. 1's and 2's. Next choice was whether to buy a Mustang or F150 engine. I went with the truck engine because it was much cheaper. I found a low mileage pullout from a 2017 F150 and I bought it for $2,684 out the door. The Mustang engines I was looking at were over $4,500 and they had 60,000 - 80,000 miles on them. Knowing what I know now I'd suggest that anyone who's looking at the Gen. 2 F150 engines to seriously think about just picking up a Mustang engine. You can buy the $400 PBH F150 engine specific harness to run the FRPP Control Pack and be good. I wanted the extra power so I bought the Gen. 2 Mustang parts I needed to make it Mustang spec (while still staying 10.5:1 instead of the 11.0:1 of the Mustang) and being able to use the FRPP Control Pack. The list gets expensive fast; all four cams, exhaust phasers, timing cover, crank damper (the F150 damper is 4 rib on the inner belt and 6 rib on the outer belt while the Mustang damper is 6 rib on both belts), alternator, oil pan, oil pan gasket/windage tray, engine harness, intake manifold, and oil filter adapter. I bought the cams used and all that was over $1,000 not including the intake manifold (I went with a 2018 for $300, the 2015 - 2017 Mustang intake manifolds are dirt cheap and can be found for $75). So, a big chunk of the money I saved on buying the F150 engine was spent on getting the engine close to Mustang spec.
Next, decide if you're using the Ford Racing Control Pack or a standalone. I went with the Control Pack because it's simpler and I don't know enough about tuning. The Control Pack comes with a lot of parts, but it's expensive. I bought mine from the people at Power By The Hour for a little over $1,800.
You'll need swap headers or you'll have to modify the factory manifolds. If you have an F150 engine you'll need Mustang manifolds as the truck exhaust manifolds are cast and suck. I went with the BBK ceramic coated swap long tube headers because the price was good, I also bought the matching X pipe. They're 3" and my old Flowmaster catback is 2.5" so I'm going to have to modify something or buy a 3" catback.
I bought a bolted up, but never ran UPR chromoly tubular K member for the swap. I went with the UPR K member because I don't want to run coilovers (they're noisey and I don't like how they put all the weight in the strut towers). I have Eibach Sportline springs, a new set of B8 Bilstein struts, a new set of B6 Bilstein shocks, newer lower control arms, MM solid steering shaft, and a MM bumpsteer kit that will work with the K member. You can use your factory K member, but oil pan and exhaust modifications will have to be made and I felt that it's not worth it.
I debated on using the Volvo PS pump, but ultimately decided against it as the pump will only give you 80% - 85% of the stock braking power. I'm not overly impressed with the stock SN95 Cobra brakes to begin with. Originally, the benefit of the Volvo PS pump was the price, but they went from $40 up to $250 when people started using them for more swaps so the biggest plus of using them for the swap isn't there anymore. I went with the Power By The Hour Speed Drive Kit that uses my stock AC compressor and PS pump. I also bought their alternator kit that comes with a clutchless pulley. When you use the Speed Drive Kit you'll have to modify the timing cover a little and the alternator gets installed facing the timing cover so the pulley can't have the one way clutch found in manual transmission cars.
I already had a Hanlon Performance rebuilt TR3650 that had all the TSB's done, doubled pinned forks, and a Steeda TriAx shifter. I bought a McLeod lightened steel flywheel and a McLeod Super Street Pro clutch with new flywheel bolts and a Ford pilot bearing. Any modular transmission will bolt up. A T56 just isn't in the budget for now.
A fuel upgrade is also needed as the Coyote engine needs 60 PSI at the rail. I went with an Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump, and used stainless steel fuel lines, fittings, Holley 12-886 FPR, and a BBK guage.
An upgrade I feel that is almost a necessity is Boundary billet oil pump gears and timing gear. It's cheap insurance and if you're going to take the timing cover off for whatever reason you'd be foolish to not install these.
The Coyote uses an electronic throttle and it comes with the Control Pack. However, it cannot bolt to the SN95 floor. You'll need a mounting bracket. Scram Speed makes one for $90.
I think that might be it for now. I'll post pictures as I do the swap and will include prices of everything I used.
Sent from my SM-N986U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
I decided on going with a Gen. 2 engine because it's more stout than the Gen. 1's and the price difference wasn't that big. I didn't like the Gen. 3's because there were a lot of problems with noisey valvetrains and lower ends, oil consumption, and the aftermarket tuning wasn't as developed compared to the Gen. 1's and 2's. Next choice was whether to buy a Mustang or F150 engine. I went with the truck engine because it was much cheaper. I found a low mileage pullout from a 2017 F150 and I bought it for $2,684 out the door. The Mustang engines I was looking at were over $4,500 and they had 60,000 - 80,000 miles on them. Knowing what I know now I'd suggest that anyone who's looking at the Gen. 2 F150 engines to seriously think about just picking up a Mustang engine. You can buy the $400 PBH F150 engine specific harness to run the FRPP Control Pack and be good. I wanted the extra power so I bought the Gen. 2 Mustang parts I needed to make it Mustang spec (while still staying 10.5:1 instead of the 11.0:1 of the Mustang) and being able to use the FRPP Control Pack. The list gets expensive fast; all four cams, exhaust phasers, timing cover, crank damper (the F150 damper is 4 rib on the inner belt and 6 rib on the outer belt while the Mustang damper is 6 rib on both belts), alternator, oil pan, oil pan gasket/windage tray, engine harness, intake manifold, and oil filter adapter. I bought the cams used and all that was over $1,000 not including the intake manifold (I went with a 2018 for $300, the 2015 - 2017 Mustang intake manifolds are dirt cheap and can be found for $75). So, a big chunk of the money I saved on buying the F150 engine was spent on getting the engine close to Mustang spec.
Next, decide if you're using the Ford Racing Control Pack or a standalone. I went with the Control Pack because it's simpler and I don't know enough about tuning. The Control Pack comes with a lot of parts, but it's expensive. I bought mine from the people at Power By The Hour for a little over $1,800.
You'll need swap headers or you'll have to modify the factory manifolds. If you have an F150 engine you'll need Mustang manifolds as the truck exhaust manifolds are cast and suck. I went with the BBK ceramic coated swap long tube headers because the price was good, I also bought the matching X pipe. They're 3" and my old Flowmaster catback is 2.5" so I'm going to have to modify something or buy a 3" catback.
I bought a bolted up, but never ran UPR chromoly tubular K member for the swap. I went with the UPR K member because I don't want to run coilovers (they're noisey and I don't like how they put all the weight in the strut towers). I have Eibach Sportline springs, a new set of B8 Bilstein struts, a new set of B6 Bilstein shocks, newer lower control arms, MM solid steering shaft, and a MM bumpsteer kit that will work with the K member. You can use your factory K member, but oil pan and exhaust modifications will have to be made and I felt that it's not worth it.
I debated on using the Volvo PS pump, but ultimately decided against it as the pump will only give you 80% - 85% of the stock braking power. I'm not overly impressed with the stock SN95 Cobra brakes to begin with. Originally, the benefit of the Volvo PS pump was the price, but they went from $40 up to $250 when people started using them for more swaps so the biggest plus of using them for the swap isn't there anymore. I went with the Power By The Hour Speed Drive Kit that uses my stock AC compressor and PS pump. I also bought their alternator kit that comes with a clutchless pulley. When you use the Speed Drive Kit you'll have to modify the timing cover a little and the alternator gets installed facing the timing cover so the pulley can't have the one way clutch found in manual transmission cars.
I already had a Hanlon Performance rebuilt TR3650 that had all the TSB's done, doubled pinned forks, and a Steeda TriAx shifter. I bought a McLeod lightened steel flywheel and a McLeod Super Street Pro clutch with new flywheel bolts and a Ford pilot bearing. Any modular transmission will bolt up. A T56 just isn't in the budget for now.
A fuel upgrade is also needed as the Coyote engine needs 60 PSI at the rail. I went with an Aeromotive Stealth 340 pump, and used stainless steel fuel lines, fittings, Holley 12-886 FPR, and a BBK guage.
An upgrade I feel that is almost a necessity is Boundary billet oil pump gears and timing gear. It's cheap insurance and if you're going to take the timing cover off for whatever reason you'd be foolish to not install these.
The Coyote uses an electronic throttle and it comes with the Control Pack. However, it cannot bolt to the SN95 floor. You'll need a mounting bracket. Scram Speed makes one for $90.
I think that might be it for now. I'll post pictures as I do the swap and will include prices of everything I used.
Sent from my SM-N986U using the svtperformance.com mobile app
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