1997 Cobra Build

[Smooves]

Hey guys, I've had my car for a while now and I'm looking to start building on what's already on it. I'm not a genius when it comes to cars however I know a good amount. Trying to get better daily. Anyways, the details of the car are here:

3.55 gears, 3" cat back exhaust, vented & slotted rotors, aluminum racing flywheel and clutch, short throw shifter, BBK lowering Springs, caster/camber plates, strut tower brace, one size bigger injectors and remapped fuel curve.

I'm looking for advice on a smart way to go about building on from this. I've thought about stage 2 cams, fr500 intake, CAI with an oversized MAF. Let me know what you think!

Thanks!!


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[ZeroDCX]

The FR500 intake will not adapt to B-heads. I'm assuming you have a C-head swap already done or in mind?

An "oversized MAF" is just a waste of money. The stock MAF will do just fine for a full bolt on setup, or if all else, a Lightning 90M MAF should suffice. The CAI is also a waste of money, the stock intake setup is a CAI. It also provides no gains swapping out to an aftermarket CAI. Swap your air filter for a K&N filter and be done with it.

Looking at your list of suspension mods, sub-frame connectors are a good start for any SN95 car.

Before answering questions concerning where you should go with your build, more information would be needed by this simple question: What purpose are you planning with this build? (Drag car, track car, street machine, dyno queen, etc.) What's your current budget? Depending on your answer fellow members will be able to point you in the right direction.

SN95 4V cars are not cheap to build, especially NA. You're going to hear a lot of "throw a centri on it at 8 psi and call it a day", as its the best bang for your buck in terms of money spent per hp.

 

[Smooves]

The FR500 intake will not adapt to B-heads. I'm assuming you have a C-head swap already done or in mind?

An "oversized MAF" is just a waste of money. The stock MAF will do just fine for a full bolt on setup, or if all else, a Lightning 90M MAF should suffice. The CAI is also a waste of money, the stock intake setup is a CAI. It also provides no gains swapping out to an aftermarket CAI. Swap your air filter for a K&N filter and be done with it.

Looking at your list of suspension mods, sub-frame connectors are a good start for any SN95 car.

Before answering questions concerning where you should go with your build, more information would be needed by this simple question: What purpose are you planning with this build? (Drag car, track car, street machine, dyno queen, etc.) What's your current budget? Depending on your answer fellow members will be able to point you in the right direction.

SN95 4V cars are not cheap to build, especially NA. You're going to hear a lot of "throw a centri on it at 8 psi and call it a day", as its the best bang for your buck in terms of money spent per hp.

I'm looking for a street machine. I want to produce the highest HP/TQ combo that will still be street drivable.

I'm planning on keeping this car forever. Just as my project car throughout the years. Meaning, I'm not in any hurry to throw all of my money on a build as soon as possible. However, I'd like to start pecking away at it. My biggest struggle has been finding information on how to get it where I want it, but doing that the right way. I appreciate your insight as I wasn't aware of some of the things you had brought up.

I have bbk long tube headers that I'm waiting to put on as well.

My car has 142k miles. So I figured I better get the comp checked to see if or when I may need a rebuild. Also considered going with a 5.3 stroker block.

Like I said, I appreciate your advice. Looking for everything I can get!


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[Tillerman77]

+1 on getting the compression checked before considering engine modifications. Also, +1 on the subframe connectors. ZeroDCX has given you some good information.

 

[Yellow98SVT]

+1 After nearly 20 years of endless bolt-on mods, gears and set ups, if I had it to do over again mine would be bone stock with a 8 psi vortech kit. You can slowly spend thousands to get 20 rwhp out of aftermarket bolt-ons or just get base vortech kit and be done at 425 rwhp.

 

[i8urSS]

I agree with getting a blower right out the gate. Nothing like a nice blown car.

For my $$$$ a better set of gears would be first thing on the list. I went 4.10 and wish I would have gone a little steeper. It'll be a night and day difference.

But if you're thinking of doing a blower or a build, you should finalize that decision before you throw away a bunch of money on things you end up changing again later on.

 

[nomoretickets]

Compression check is the first step. Assuming the motor is healthy, FI at low boost is the best bang for your buck. Centri is the usual move. Certainly the most user friendly and market tested, though there are plenty of reliable turbo builds on the market too.

I understand the allure of going the NA route. Its certainly cool and unique. If thats what you want to do, go for it. There is an excellent 400 RWHP n/a build thread on here [https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/400-rwhp-na-build.1092545/]. Probably one of the coolest SN95's out there.

Of course, this is all moot if the motor is hurt. In which case, Coyote swap it and let 'er eat.

 

[Mike Morris]

I would love to do a n/a one but for the money an exhaust,410s with 31 spines/carrier,Vortech 8 psi is the way to go