1993 Mercury Capri issues with starting, seeking advice.

SoCalCobra

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Ok, here's the issue I'm having with my daily driver, a 1993 Mercury Capri. I'm trying to isolate the issue without replacing any unncessary parts. I'm kind of strapped for cash and don't want to fix the problem by replacing multiple parts.

A couple weeks ago, I try to start my car to go to work, and it won't crank. First thing that popped in my head was dead battery, so I take out the battery and head to Auto Zone to get it checked. The employee charges the battery and runs their typical tests on the battery to determine if it needs replaced or not. 30 minutes later, he hands me the battery back and says it's good to go and that I don't need a replacement. I take it home, put it back in the Mercury and don't have any issues with it.

A few days later, I'm leaving work after a bad rainstorm. I run over a puddle, and my car goes completely dead. The car shuts off and everything electrical goes out. I steer the car to the side of the road and a friend jumps me off.

My car sits for about a month in the garage after that because my wife had our first child, so I was on vacation.

A few days before heading back to work, I check my car to see if it will start again, and it's completely dead. I jump it off with my wife's car and head to work. While driving to work, I notice when I turn my headlights on that the car almost dies for a split second but then goes back to running normally. Every time I turn the headlights off and back on, the same thing happens. I also notice my headlights slightly dimming when I'm using my blinkers, as in they dim off and on with the blinking. Of course, the car is dead when I go to leave work, so I have it jumped off again.

Right now, when I test the battery with the Digital Multimeter while the car is off, it reads 12.45. When I try to start the car, nothing happens, not even a clicking sound. Nothing electrical operates when the car is off, headlights, etc. When I try to start the car, the digital clock and the buzzing sound indicating my key is in my ignition shut off, but eventually come back on after a couple minutes.

I was just out in the garage messing with it when I figured I would post this message to see what kind of advice anyone can offer.
 

SoCalCobra

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Turning headlights on almost kills car. Turning both headlights AND A/C kills it unless I'm revving the engine.
 

SoCalCobra

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I read on another forum if you disconnect the positive cable from the battery while the car is running, that you can determine whether or not the alternator works if the car continues to run while the battery is disconnected. I did just that, and my car still ran. I'm going to assume the Auto Zone guy was wrong, so I just replaced the battery. Everything works fine for now, I'll see if it stays that way.
 

BuckChoklit

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I read on another forum if you disconnect the positive cable from the battery while the car is running, that you can determine whether or not the alternator works if the car continues to run while the battery is disconnected. I did just that, and my car still ran. I'm going to assume the Auto Zone guy was wrong, so I just replaced the battery. Everything works fine for now, I'll see if it stays that way.

The thing is, is that a battery is supposed to have a chance to rest after it's charged before you test it. Chances are it didn't have sufficient time to rest between charging and testing to give an accurate reading.
 

ford_racer

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The car can run on alternator alone depending on it's electrical needs. Pretty much all old cars can where as most new ones cannot.

The equipment at Auto Zone could have been wrong. It happens quite a bit. You should get it load tested, which usually takes an hour.

Other than that, hold a multimeter to the battery with both cables attached and the car off and make sure there isn't a draw.
 

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