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Fox Body Mustangs
1993 4-cyl. To v8 302 swap, eye candy! ;)
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<blockquote data-quote="Mnstr50" data-source="post: 14712935" data-attributes="member: 140510"><p>So here is the most recent evolution of this car, after running the car with NGK TR55 copper plugs with the standard gap of .054 for the previous dyno runs, I decided to get a little more creative with making power. I've had a handful of supercharged cars, but it's time for something different. After some research, I figured it was time to play with nitrous! I purchased a ZEX black out kit (82023B), which is universal kit for v8 cars, and I decided to set it up for a 100-shot. The reason why I decided on this particular kit is because it's the most straight forward, and it uses the TPS position for WOT. This makes install a lot easier in my opinion and allows for the kit to be "hidden" (more on that later). My learning curve with nitrous only took about a night, as I realized that bottle pressure is CRITICAL for optimal performance of the nitrous system. For this reason I decided to get ZEX's "tuner kit" which includes a purge solenoid (not installed) a blow down tube (not yet installed) and the bottle heater. I installed the bottle heater (with is thermally controlled) and it seemed to take 30-45min to get the bottle pressure to 800-psi (optimal operating pressure s 1000psi, the standard solenoids on this system will "lock" if more than 1100psi is applied, but manipulating the pressure can result in a harder "hit"). Even with only 800-psi I was able to get a race with a 2012 Camaro SS. We did three pulls from a rolling start (as 4.10's, 225 series tires are useless from a dig) and I handed the guy his rear-end all three times!! He wasn't too happy with the loss, and he hand no idea I was on the bottle! lol, After the race, I contacted ZEX about the bottle heater, and I ended up getting a pressure controlled bottle heater (after also hearing some of the trouble other people had with the standard heater). The pressure controlled heater is much quicker to get the bottle to temperature, and it's on a switch (875psi on, 1000psi off) which can get adjusted up to 1150psi (I believe) Here are some pictures of my install; </p><p></p><p>The C&L elbow was added two weeks ago, but I had the nitrous plumbed into the stock rubber elbow prior to this, and it was a total sleeper look. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]629270[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>you have to look HARD to see the solenoid (black box) hidden right behind the stock airbox. </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]629271[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>notice both the position of the nozzle, but also the TPS signal wire, which I covered in wire loop; </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]629272[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>the arming switch and the bottle heater switch are both tucked high on the kick panel, and not easily visible from even a driving position; </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]629273[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>here is the bottle, with the heater wrapped around it, and the pressure gauge (excuse the wires currently, ran out of loom) ;</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]629274[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>here is the pressure switch, and if you look hard enough you can see the relay mounted to the "cross brace" behind the rear seats; </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]629275[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>here is how I switch between the nitrous and the NA tunes on the SCT chip </p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]629276[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>No dyno runs on the nitrous. I switched the spark plugs to TR6 NGK coppers, that are a heat range cooler than stock, with a standard gap of .034</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mnstr50, post: 14712935, member: 140510"] So here is the most recent evolution of this car, after running the car with NGK TR55 copper plugs with the standard gap of .054 for the previous dyno runs, I decided to get a little more creative with making power. I've had a handful of supercharged cars, but it's time for something different. After some research, I figured it was time to play with nitrous! I purchased a ZEX black out kit (82023B), which is universal kit for v8 cars, and I decided to set it up for a 100-shot. The reason why I decided on this particular kit is because it's the most straight forward, and it uses the TPS position for WOT. This makes install a lot easier in my opinion and allows for the kit to be "hidden" (more on that later). My learning curve with nitrous only took about a night, as I realized that bottle pressure is CRITICAL for optimal performance of the nitrous system. For this reason I decided to get ZEX's "tuner kit" which includes a purge solenoid (not installed) a blow down tube (not yet installed) and the bottle heater. I installed the bottle heater (with is thermally controlled) and it seemed to take 30-45min to get the bottle pressure to 800-psi (optimal operating pressure s 1000psi, the standard solenoids on this system will "lock" if more than 1100psi is applied, but manipulating the pressure can result in a harder "hit"). Even with only 800-psi I was able to get a race with a 2012 Camaro SS. We did three pulls from a rolling start (as 4.10's, 225 series tires are useless from a dig) and I handed the guy his rear-end all three times!! He wasn't too happy with the loss, and he hand no idea I was on the bottle! lol, After the race, I contacted ZEX about the bottle heater, and I ended up getting a pressure controlled bottle heater (after also hearing some of the trouble other people had with the standard heater). The pressure controlled heater is much quicker to get the bottle to temperature, and it's on a switch (875psi on, 1000psi off) which can get adjusted up to 1150psi (I believe) Here are some pictures of my install; The C&L elbow was added two weeks ago, but I had the nitrous plumbed into the stock rubber elbow prior to this, and it was a total sleeper look. [ATTACH=full]629270[/ATTACH] you have to look HARD to see the solenoid (black box) hidden right behind the stock airbox. [ATTACH=full]629271[/ATTACH] notice both the position of the nozzle, but also the TPS signal wire, which I covered in wire loop; [ATTACH=full]629272[/ATTACH] the arming switch and the bottle heater switch are both tucked high on the kick panel, and not easily visible from even a driving position; [ATTACH=full]629273[/ATTACH] here is the bottle, with the heater wrapped around it, and the pressure gauge (excuse the wires currently, ran out of loom) ; [ATTACH=full]629274[/ATTACH] here is the pressure switch, and if you look hard enough you can see the relay mounted to the "cross brace" behind the rear seats; [ATTACH=full]629275[/ATTACH] here is how I switch between the nitrous and the NA tunes on the SCT chip [ATTACH=full]629276[/ATTACH] No dyno runs on the nitrous. I switched the spark plugs to TR6 NGK coppers, that are a heat range cooler than stock, with a standard gap of .034 [/QUOTE]
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