1993 4-cyl. To v8 302 swap, eye candy! ;)

Mnstr50 · Mar 30, 2014

Hey everyone, I purchased a 1993 4-cyl. notch a few months ago with the intension of converting the coupe to a v8. Little did I know the true magnitude of the process that is involved to do the swap right. For those interested in doing this conversion, I encourage you to source a factory v8 coupe, but if you insist on tackling this swap, there is what's involved;

Items that are different;

Front spindles
Front sway bar
Front strut
Front brake rotor
Front brake caliper
Brake booster
Brake master cylinder
Brake lines
Fuel lines
Headlight harness
Engine harness (specific for model year, my 93' needs 93' specific harness)
Engine computer
Gauge panel
Rear axle (of course)
Rear lower control arms (no provisions in the 4-cyl. Lower control arms for a sway bar)
Transmission (in my case converting from auto to auto)
Transmission shifter assembly (AOD has "1, D, OD", A4LD has "1, 2, 3, OD")
Radiator
Radiator fan assembly
AC system
Exhaust system
Intake system (harness will also depend on MAF or Speed Density)
Steering rack (v8 has a quicker steering ratio)

My best advise in this case would be to find a DONOR v8 car to strip. This is exactly what I did! I purchase a 1990 Ford Mustang LX convertible, with an AOD. I later sourced the proper 1993 engine harness to accommodate the conversion.

So, here is my spreadsheet of modifications that will be taking place prior to the swap;

Retaining stock short block
Port GT40 iron heads (by Mustang Mike) * more info later
Port Ford Explorer intake lower manifold (by Mustang Mike) * more info later
Port throttle body opening for 75mm EGR spacer
70mm throttle body
76mm MAC MAF housing with 24# injector sample tube
Ford 24# flow matched fuel injectors
Retaining stock airbox, and intake plumbing
AFE air filter (superior to K&N)
Crane 1.7:1 roller rockers
Ford F303 cam
Titanium retainers
130lb seat pressure springs
Ford Racing Hardened pushrods
Ford Racing oil pump shaft
Ford Racing oil pump
Ford Racing head gaskets
Ford Racing OE lifters
ARP head studs
Double roller timing set
MAC 1 5/8" equal length shorties
SVE 3-row aluminum radiator

Stock cat'ed H-pipe (for now)
Stock AOD and stall (for now)
Donor car has flowmaster cutback which will be retained
Donor car has 3.73's in the 8.8"
Retaining fan clutch and fan blade (for now, all new)
Solid motor mounts
Poly trans mounts
5-lug SN95 conversion w/stock rotors and pads (for now)
Poly front lower control arm bushings
Moog lower ball joints
Eibach Sportline springs
Eibach sway bars
Koni STR.T
Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates
Lakewood "traction Action" lower control arms
Retaining AC
Retaining power steering
Retaining all emissions provisions

Future plans;

3,000-3,200 non-lock up stall converter
Lenntech, or PA or Art Carr valve body "hold gear". Auto/manual
Trans cooler
Off road x-pipe
Larger plumbing for intake track, retaining stock air box
Electric radiator fans
Subframe connectors
Maximum Motorsports Torque arm
Pan hard bar or watts link

Pictures of Mike starting the port work

Stock vs. ported

Inside radius

Bowl

Contact Mike, he's an extremely friendly guy and very knowledgeable. Great work, great prices.

http://www.mustangmikesbudgetbuilds.com

Check out these lower control arms!!

wesessiah · Apr 1, 2014

nice, a little more involved as far as interchangeability than I would have imagined.

Mnstr50 · Apr 1, 2014

wesessiah said:
nice, a little more involved as far as interchangeability than I would have imagined.

I agree! Some of it doesn't make sense to me, in terms of tooling cost involved on Ford's end. After the foxbody, I think ford figured that out and started standardizing some of the hardware starting with the SN95 (spindles, etc.)

Mnstr50 · Apr 2, 2014

Suspension went in today (for the most part);

Sway bar difference;

Recipient:

Installed hardware, still running four cylinder brakes

wesessiah · Apr 2, 2014

Mnstr50 said:
I agree! Some of it doesn't make sense to me, in terms of tooling cost involved on Ford's end. After the foxbody, I think ford figured that out and started standardizing some of the hardware starting with the SN95 (spindles, etc.)

that's one thing Honda does right (I guess they still do) that I wish ford did. you can take the head off car b (different size engine) transmission from car c, 6th gear from car a and use it in transmission from c, computer and o2 sensor from car d, intake manifold from car e, cam from car f and throw it all on car a.
how much lighter is that sway bar... the factory 5.0 one feels like it weighs a metric ton.

mustangmanjeff · Apr 2, 2014

nice, I would say I would change the thottle body to a 75mm being its ported opening for 75mm / egr yet your running a 70mm tb, its always good to match the opening to the same size .

crazycarlo · Apr 2, 2014

Looks good man I have a 93 coupe I'm trying to decide if I wanna swap it or sell it. I want a stroked Windsor.

Mnstr50 · Apr 2, 2014

mustangmanjeff said:
nice, I would say I would change the thottle body to a 75mm being its ported opening for 75mm / egr yet your running a 70mm tb, its always good to match the opening to the same size .

My builder (Mustang Mike, listed in the original thread) discussed with me that the 70mm TB with the 75mm spacer was the ideal combo. You want to match your hardware when building a motor. Bigger would have resulted in low-end loss. Same concept with the headers and exhaust. He sees better results with 2 1/4" piping over 2.5" piping in stock E7 head application. In fact, MAC's 1-1/2" equal lengths yielded the most power. I've gone with 1-5/8" in because we're running GT40 heads, intake, and a decent cam. I'll likely stick with 2.5" for my system. Bigger isn't always better after all.

Mnstr50 · Apr 2, 2014

crazycarlo said:
Looks good man I have a 93 coupe I'm trying to decide if I wanna swap it or sell it. I want a stroked Windsor.

Really focus on calculating every dime for the parts you'll want to, or will need to be replaced prior to taking the next step. It's far cheaper to find a true v8 car. With that said, the end result should be nicer (with personal touches, etc.).

SVTORANGE · Apr 4, 2014

Great information - good luck on your build

crazycarlo · Apr 5, 2014

Yeah I bought my car as a roller for $500 and it had black interior already. Since my cobra blew a head gasket and I decided to part it a lot of stuff ill be transferring over like the rear end, brakes, calipers, lowering springs. Fuel pump (maybe) and some other stuff. Plans right now are for a 351 HCI motor. Just something fun with some chop to it

Mnstr50 · Apr 5, 2014

crazycarlo said:
Yeah I bought my car as a roller for $500 and it had black interior already. Since my cobra blew a head gasket and I decided to part it a lot of stuff ill be transferring over like the rear end, brakes, calipers, lowering springs. Fuel pump (maybe) and some other stuff. Plans right now are for a 351 HCI motor. Just something fun with some chop to it

The funny thing is that the fuel pump is actually the same between 4-cyl. And v8 (302). I would say "since you're in there", you might as well replace the fuel pump as well. A 255/LPH would do just fine. Especially with the 351. I also wanted to do a 351 swap, but for now, trying to stay on "some sort" of budget, the 302 will have to do.