'14 Brembo Upgrades? or BBK? Anyone?

[Five.Oh]

Hoping some of the Veterans will chime in here..

Nearing the end of my track season. The OEM Brembo's, pads and fluid proved to work well enough for the 1st year out. Now that my pads are close to being unavailable I am entertaining the idea of upgrading to a 2 piece slotted or drilled rotor set up for the front to save some un sprung weight and a good track compound pad as well as upgrading the brake fluid and lines to something a little more track friendly. Is this any better or worse than simply buying a big brake kit for the front? :??:

If I did change the front brake assembly entirely for a larger say 6 pot caliper for argument sake, would my original brake master cylinder provide enough fluid pressure to deem a larger caliper as effective as my original Brembo calipers?

I suppose I am looking for some advice and to hear what some of your brake set ups are? Please list your brake set up for me and for who ever else has the same questions I do also please leave some feed back as to how it performs for your application. :bowdown:

- Front Rotors
- Front Pads
- Front Brake ducts?
- Rear Rotors
- Rear Pads
- Brake Fluid
- Brake lines

Or

Big Brake Kit??

Thanks

 

[99COBRA2881]

If you get front brake ducks, don't get mallards them sumbitches quack all the time. :smmon:


It was just a joke you really didn't need to edit your post.

 

[wheelhopper]

I would think that your stock 4 piston Brembo set up would be fine. With some basic upgrades. I wouldn't use a drilled rotor unless your car came with it from the factory. Many of the upgrades you listed for your stock brakes should be done with a BBK as well, good fluid, cooling ducts, etc. So you might as well do the upgrades and see how that works before dropping a lot of coin on a BBK.

After saying that I would be tempted to install a 6 piston GT500 kit on the car if it was mine.

 

[Five.Oh]

I would think that your stock 4 piston Brembo set up would be fine. With some basic upgrades. I wouldn't use a drilled rotor unless your car came with it from the factory. Many of the upgrades you listed for your stock brakes should be done with a BBK as well, good fluid, cooling ducts, etc. So you might as well do the upgrades and see how that works before dropping a lot of coin on a BBK.

After saying that I would be tempted to install a 6 piston GT500 kit on the car if it was mine.

I was leaning toward just upgrading the rotors pads/lines and fluid. Then keeping my original 4 pot brembo calipers before buying myself a BBK.

The '13/'14 GT500 stops 60 - 0 in 6ft less than my car. stock for stock. That's why I didn't really consider the GT500 brake kit as an option. Adding a fair bit more un sprung weight with the larger 15 inch rotors and 6 pot calipers for $1800.00 (GT500 brake kit from AM) to stop 6ft sooner than my factory brake set up just dose not seem worth it to me.. Or am I missing something?

 

[dmichaels]

Stopping distance is less of a concern than REPEATABLE stopping through a ~30 minute track session. With good track only pads, your Brembos will have plenty of stopping power to overwhelm most tires (until you go with slicks), but heat will be the enemy.

I would do the below, in the order
Brake cooling
Fluid & track pads (front and rear)
SS lines
2-piece rotors

I run my car pretty hard and have been fighting brake fade all season. I seem to have narrowed my issue down to a rear sticking caliper, so I'm expecting no fade this coming THursday when I get out, but there are a lot of Mustang guys I run with who drive hard and have no brake issues with brake cooling, high temp fluid, and track pads. The cars stop hard, again and again!

 

[Five.Oh]

Stopping distance is less of a concern than REPEATABLE stopping through a ~30 minute track session. With good track only pads, your Brembos will have plenty of stopping power to overwhelm most tires (until you go with slicks), but heat will be the enemy.

I would do the below, in the order
Brake cooling
Fluid & track pads (front and rear)
SS lines
2-piece rotors

I run my car pretty hard and have been fighting brake fade all season. I seem to have narrowed my issue down to a rear sticking caliper, so I'm expecting no fade this coming THursday when I get out, but there are a lot of Mustang guys I run with who drive hard and have no brake issues with brake cooling, high temp fluid, and track pads. The cars stop hard, again and again!

Thanks for the advice, I will look into the brake cooling ducts 1st thing. As far as fluid I was going to buy some Motul RBF660 with HAWK DCT70 pads front and rear. What ya think?

Best place to look into brake cooling ducts?

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

You need brake cooling, not bigger brakes. Run stock or centric premium or high carbon plain rotors until you decide to go with 2 piece rotors. Don't waste money on any other rotors.

JLT makes a brake cooling kit for about $200. If you are really tracking a lot, you may want to go with a full 3 inch opening at the front of the car and tweak their kit or design your own.

Fulltilt boogie racing makes the full front backing plates with ducts for $149 if you want to construct your own.

You probably don't need DTC70s.. But 60s may work well for you. You will actually be able to drive the car on the street with them as well, so that is a plus.

My track car is not a Mustang, but I've been running DTC60s in front and 30s in the rear with NT01 tires. I have been pretty satisfied.

 

[darreng505]

I was leaning toward just upgrading the rotors pads/lines and fluid. Then keeping my original 4 pot brembo calipers before buying myself a BBK.

The '13/'14 GT500 stops 60 - 0 in 6ft less than my car. stock for stock. That's why I didn't really consider the GT500 brake kit as an option. Adding a fair bit more un sprung weight with the larger 15 inch rotors and 6 pot calipers for $1800.00 (GT500 brake kit from AM) to stop 6ft sooner than my factory brake set up just dose not seem worth it to me.. Or am I missing something?

That 6 pot gt500 upgrade kit is crap. Don't waste your money. However the gt500 brake booster does pump out 30% more force. I got it. Works great.

 

[darreng505]

Thanks for the advice, I will look into the brake cooling ducts 1st thing. As far as fluid I was going to buy some Motul RBF660 with HAWK DCT70 pads front and rear. What ya think?

Best place to look into brake cooling ducts?

If I recall hawk doesn't make 70's for the rear. I run hawk pads. They are amazing. BUT. like any serious track pad they need heat. Lots of it. In fact they seem to grip more the harder you stomp on them. Do not use them on the street! They wont stop.

Look into gryodisc rotors. Just switched to them in front. I had a corvette guy run shotgun with me and he couldn't stop laughing at the absurd stopping power. I have every possible brake upgrade but still run stock brembo calipers. Since I'm about to do w2w I'll be switching to 15" endurance brembos. 4 pots.

Blowfish racing has a cooling kit. Frpp too.

 

[bFoxGt500]

Very good advice here - adding cooling, fluid, SS lines and better track pads and slotted rotors. No need for 6 piston calipers, imo. Track pads on the street are not a good idea, in general. They will be noisy and may not stop efficiently when cold, I think.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Don't get slotted rotors unless they are 2 piece. You are wasting your money otherwise.

 

[Five.Oh]

You need brake cooling, not bigger brakes. Run stock or centric premium or high carbon plain rotors until you decide to go with 2 piece rotors. Don't waste money on any other rotors.

JLT makes a brake cooling kit for about $200. If you are really tracking a lot, you may want to go with a full 3 inch opening at the front of the car and tweak their kit or design your own.

Fulltilt boogie racing makes the full front backing plates with ducts for $149 if you want to construct your own.

You probably don't need DTC70s.. But 60s may work well for you. You will actually be able to drive the car on the street with them as well, so that is a plus.

My track car is not a Mustang, but I've been running DTC60s in front and 30s in the rear with NT01 tires. I have been pretty satisfied.

Thanks for the advice on the DCT60's street drivability is an asset as it dose see some street use

 

[Five.Oh]

If I recall hawk doesn't make 70's for the rear. I run hawk pads. They are amazing. BUT. like any serious track pad they need heat. Lots of it. In fact they seem to grip more the harder you stomp on them. Do not use them on the street! They wont stop.

Look into gryodisc rotors. Just switched to them in front. I had a corvette guy run shotgun with me and he couldn't stop laughing at the absurd stopping power. I have every possible brake upgrade but still run stock brembo calipers. Since I'm about to do w2w I'll be switching to 15" endurance brembos. 4 pots.

Blowfish racing has a cooling kit. Frpp too.

Thanks, I assumed HAWK made a DCT70 compound pad for the rear to match the fronts. (I am somewhat new to this road race business) I stand corrected. It dose not see much street use by most peoples standards but dose see some.

 

[Five.Oh]

Don't get slotted rotors unless they are 2 piece. You are wasting your money otherwise.

I only planned to go with a 2 piece rotor set. I figured the same. At what point should I be changing out my Fluid? Change fluid with my pads like dmichaels said above.


Thanks again

 

[Five.Oh]

If you get front brake ducks, don't get mallards them sumbitches quack all the time. :smmon:


It was just a joke you really didn't need to edit your post.

No problem, Thanks for pointing that out. I went full retard that time.. lol

 

[ac427cobra]

Hoping some of the Veterans will chime in here..

Nearing the end of my track season. The OEM Brembo's, pads and fluid proved to work well enough for the 1st year out. Now that my pads are close to being unavailable I am entertaining the idea of upgrading to a 2 piece slotted or drilled rotor set up for the front to save some un sprung weight and a good track compound pad as well as upgrading the brake fluid and lines to something a little more track friendly. Is this any better or worse than simply buying a big brake kit for the front? :??:

If I did change the front brake assembly entirely for a larger say 6 pot caliper for argument sake, would my original brake master cylinder provide enough fluid pressure to deem a larger caliper as effective as my original Brembo calipers?

I suppose I am looking for some advice and to hear what some of your brake set ups are? Please list your brake set up for me and for who ever else has the same questions I do also please leave some feed back as to how it performs for your application. :bowdown:

- Front Rotors
- Front Pads
- Front Brake ducts?
- Rear Rotors
- Rear Pads
- Brake Fluid
- Brake lines

Or

Big Brake Kit??

Thanks

Of course any Mustang on track needs good front brake cooling. We have these ducts part number FT 9200:

On our S-197 brake order page at the bottom of the page:

http://fulltiltboogieracing.com/2011-2014_V6_Mustang_Brake_Parts.htm

These fit all iterations of S-197 vehicles.

If you're looking for a good fluid to run on track, I'd recommend Castrol SRF. It's a tad pricey but it's well worth it. It's listed on the same page as linked above. If you're looking for 2 pc rotor assemblies I would avoid any drilled rotors when running on track or racing. Slotted rotors are fine.

We have a couple of these Brembo FR500C front brake conversion kits left and the 2 pc HD road race floating rotors in this kit will save you 11# of rotating mass and unsprung weight over the one pc OEM 14" rotors which weigh over 25#.

Here's a link for more information on the kit:

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...Brembo-FR500C-S-front-brakes&highlight=FR500C

I'll be glad to answer any questions you might have.

:thumbsup::coolman::beer:

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

I only planned to go with a 2 piece rotor set. I figured the same. At what point should I be changing out my Fluid? Change fluid with my pads like dmichaels said above.


Thanks again

You should at least be flushing it yearly if you are tracking the car occasionally. But it depends on how hard you are on the brakes. Brake fluid absorbs water, so you will lose brake feel and the boiling point will drop over time. It is a safety item, so if you go to the track a lot flush it more often. Castrol SRF is pretty expensive, but you can flush it less often. I use ATE TYP200 (super gold) in my track car.

 

[Mike Rousch]

What works for me

3 inch cooling from Ford racing or the other that have been recommending.
Carbotech xp-12 or dtc-60 front ( dtc-70s will chew the rotors to pieces )
SS lines
Good fluid is a must, i have used Motul 600 and just went to 660
Centric rotors

 

[Five.Oh]

All good advise, I have been doing a lot of reading. Brake fluid seems to be hard to decide on Brand. They all advertise the same nearly.

 

[dmichaels]

I just put in DTC70's and will have them at Limerock two days in October. Took them for a ride on the street today and pedal feel was excellent, so was initial bite. I have a feeling these are going to be wonderful at the track. Rotors are cheap enough where I'm not too concerned if I chew through them