Is it possible to run 11.99 or better with a bone stock 07 GT500 with just the addition of drag radials? What about 12's on street tires? What kinda launch techniques are you guys using on drag radials? RPM, tire pressure, clutch release. Is there anything weak in the drivetrain I should know about? It's gotta be more beefy than my C5's. What kinda wheels/tires do you guys use for a drag pack so to speak, just some cheap wheels that fit on the rear. I ran 11.80 in my car with 331rwhp, so I wanna see if I can hit 11.9 or better with 420-440rwhp(est) but 1,000lbs heavier(est) Thanks for any help.
11's possible stock, and launching ?'s
- Thread starter slowtealz28
- Start date
Surprised no one has commented on this one. I took my bone stock 2011 to the track a week or so ago and ran a 12.7 @ 115.8 I have to admit I was hoping for better but I guess thats not bad. It was about 50-55 degrees which is not optimal conditions for hooking. I would think you could get into the 12s bone stock with some superb driving. I would say getting into the 11s on drs should not be a problem. Honestly you probably have a better shot at 11s w/drs that you do hitting 12s stock lol. They just have way too much torque for street tires.
Stock, with a excellent driver, you are looking at best 12.2-12.3. With slicks you could break into the 11s if your driveshaft holds together. Using physics calculations if traction and run was perfect equates to 11.5@118 at 3850lbs.
With filter/inlet, tune, drag radials and/or gears will get you into the 11s.(think KR). With Weight reduction and traction the stock powerplant makes enough to put one in the 11s but then that's not a stock car anymore.
With filter/inlet, tune, drag radials and/or gears will get you into the 11s.(think KR). With Weight reduction and traction the stock powerplant makes enough to put one in the 11s but then that's not a stock car anymore.
Last edited:
A Serious set of big&littles and tune/pulley you should be looking at 11.7xx 11.6xx
Just do a three second 2nd gear burn out to get the goodyears nice and sticky. Launch at about 3,200rpm and no lift shit 3rd and 4th gear and you should be really proud of your ET's. Its also going to get get heat soaked so if you blow the start just get out of it and coast to the finish and save your cool engine for the next round. If you want to do it on the cheap you can grab a pair of Racestar 15x10's and 26" tall drag radials and be in the 11's all day long.
My first time out with my stock 2011 I ran a best of 12.3@118. It took about 5 or so trial and error passes before I found the right combo. I dropped the tire pressure down to 25psi in my 20" PP's, turned off all the traction and advance track controls, big 2nd gear burnout, hold it at 3,200 rpm and have the clutch released in a car length when I go WOT, shit into 2nd gear a little early like 5,600rpm and keep the accelerator on the floor while you grab 3rd and 4th as fast as you can.
My first time out with my stock 2011 I ran a best of 12.3@118. It took about 5 or so trial and error passes before I found the right combo. I dropped the tire pressure down to 25psi in my 20" PP's, turned off all the traction and advance track controls, big 2nd gear burnout, hold it at 3,200 rpm and have the clutch released in a car length when I go WOT, shit into 2nd gear a little early like 5,600rpm and keep the accelerator on the floor while you grab 3rd and 4th as fast as you can.
Last edited:
good info right here.
Don't forget he was refering to an 07 which is 60hp less and 125# more.
Very doable in the right conditions. After "learning" how to drive my car on a cold night(50's) I went 12.16 @ 113 factory stock. Before this I had an '04 Cobra which required finesse to launch where as the Shelby just wants to be beat on. Stock Goodyears, full weight, factory airfilter. With Dr's and a hard launch 11.99 wouldn't have been out of the question.
I've been as quick as 11.28 @ 123 with 05r's on factory wheels, full weight, C&L CAI, 2.6 upper pulley only, upper/lower control arms(for hop), email tune, lethal off road x, 3.73's, LFP HE, and magna flow catback. Stock manifolds, no lower pulley.
Us 07-09 guys are at a disadvantage compared with the 11-12 guys. We have less hp from the factory and more weight, and less gearing(3.31 vs 3.73's).
Agreed, completely different cars.:beer:
Best I could get bone stock w/ sticky tires was 12.4, and my driver mod needs tuning.
Stock, the F1s are horrible, you get wheel hop, and 3.31 gears don't help...
Stock, the F1s are horrible, you get wheel hop, and 3.31 gears don't help...
good info on this thread. i was told that the stock f1 supercar tires (on my 10'), are horrible at the drag (which i already knew they were), but also that a burnout is unnecessary - and will make hooking harder on these tires. good to hear other points of view and what has worked for others. ill be going to the track soon - cant wait to try.
I've never heard of a tire that hooks better when it cold vs a smoky burnout. Worst advise ever.
Just so you never forget............Heat makes rubber sticky, thats why you hear all the pebbles and rocks kicking up in your wheel well once they get hot.
Tires have a temperature operating range. Outside of that range the grip level is decreased. Too cold and they are not pliable, too hot or drastic heat cycle degrades the rubber to the point they are ruined.
A little heat in the tire is good for a street tire it's best to drive around the water box(especially important if not running skinnys in front) do a small burnout basically enough to put a little heat in the tires but the main purpose for the burnout is actually to clean the build up of old rubber and debris on the tire. This is also true for slicks. MT ET Streets(cheater slicks) I have noticed need quite a bit to get into the fresh rubber and break-in. Don't dry hop(test launch) the car because the very first "hit" you do will be the best the tires will do so save it for the actual launch of the run. Drag radials actually work much better if you drive them around on the street extremely low on air pressure to break down the side wall and get a few heat cycles through them before any abuse takes place(burnout/dragstrip) after that run at normal pressure(normal for drag radial) and avoid drastic heat cycles.
A little heat in the tire is good for a street tire it's best to drive around the water box(especially important if not running skinnys in front) do a small burnout basically enough to put a little heat in the tires but the main purpose for the burnout is actually to clean the build up of old rubber and debris on the tire. This is also true for slicks. MT ET Streets(cheater slicks) I have noticed need quite a bit to get into the fresh rubber and break-in. Don't dry hop(test launch) the car because the very first "hit" you do will be the best the tires will do so save it for the actual launch of the run. Drag radials actually work much better if you drive them around on the street extremely low on air pressure to break down the side wall and get a few heat cycles through them before any abuse takes place(burnout/dragstrip) after that run at normal pressure(normal for drag radial) and avoid drastic heat cycles.
Last edited:
Great job. I knew it was possible.:beer:
Thanks man. Guess I should also stress guys, by no means did either one happen quickly. It took about 8 or 9 trips to the track and the DA was awesome the Friday night that I got them both.
Users who are viewing this thread
