$1000 budget from wife !!!

1st usa car

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$$$ can be used on senseless upgrades... stuff that is not broken or worn out. Example tires and clutch do not apply.

I am thinking of getting a VMP fuel voltage thingy "BAP" for insurance. Also, some shiny Viking rear shocks.

Any other ideas? I am not in a hurry to purchase... probably wait for the next sale by the vendors.
 

RedVenom48

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Had a VMP BAP and it did its job. That said next time around im getting a Kenne Bell 21v Competition Plug n play BAP.

You cannot go wrong with Viking Shocks. Love the set of DA Warriors i have on my car.
 

RBB

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$$$ can be used on senseless upgrades... stuff that is not broken or worn out. Example tires and clutch do not apply.

I am thinking of getting a VMP fuel voltage thingy "BAP" for insurance. Also, some shiny Viking rear shocks.

Any other ideas? I am not in a hurry to purchase... probably wait for the next sale by the vendors.
Hard to answer this question without knowing your current mods. What've you done so far?

No need for a BAP unless your tuner has told you that you're running out of fuel.
 

1st usa car

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How does one get a $1000 budget from the wife. Inquiring minds need to know. :D The BAP is a good choice
In-laws at the house for several months.

Hard to answer this question without knowing your current mods. What've you done so far?

No need for a BAP unless your tuner has told you that you're running out of fuel.
Mods are in my signature on 1st post -- and it is just for insurance.

BAP and 10% lower or headers
100% happy w/ current exhaust setup --- 10% lower will be really pushing it on pump gas.
 

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should i get front struts?? I am not interested in lowering the car... is there enough benefit in handling with just a strut change?
 

Catmonkey

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Struts do wear out and I'm not sure there's a handling benefit unless they're worn out. I see you have bigger sway bars which would be the bigger benefit to handling. If you're happy with everything you've done and looking for insurance type upgrades, I'd say a fuel pump booster and ID750s or 1000s. The injectors come up for sale now and then when people convert their cars back to stock or get bigger injectors for E85 and resell them at fairly reasonable prices.
 

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Struts do wear out and I'm not sure there's a handling benefit unless they're worn out. I see you have bigger sway bars which would be the bigger benefit to handling. If you're happy with everything you've done and looking for insurance type upgrades, I'd say a fuel pump booster and ID750s or 1000s. The injectors come up for sale now and then when people convert their cars back to stock or get bigger injectors for E85 and resell them at fairly reasonable prices.
Well, that is good to know -- I guess I'll wait on the struts. BAP is cheaper and more than enough insurance for my setup... bigger injectors will be nice but I dont think I can boost much more on pump gas -- I want to remain on pump gas.

I really am running out of options... perhaps a 2nd hand driveshaft.
 

RedVenom48

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naw, if your getting a driveshaft, get it new. I picked up my DSS aluminum shaft for $800 off American Muscle 2 years ago. Dramatic difference in weight reduction, the rear CV is awesome to have (pinion angle is moot) and reduces power loss a little by being less mass to rotate.

you never know what a used shaft has been through. id buy one if i was in a pinch, the price was right and i intended to get a new one relatively soon
 

HillbillyHotRod

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Why would the pinion angle be moot? Even with the CV at the rear would you not still want the correct pinion angle to eliminate wear?

Dramatic difference in weight reduction, the rear CV is awesome to have (pinion angle is moot) and reduces power loss a little by being less mass to rotate.
 

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If you didn't run out of fuel when you were tuned and you aren't increasing power, no need for a BAP. You would basically be over driving your pumps for no reason.
 

RedVenom48

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Why would the pinion angle be moot? Even with the CV at the rear would you not still want the correct pinion angle to eliminate wear?

A CV joint in the rear of the driveshaft operates on a different principle than a universal joint. The spec from DSS is a gap mesurement from the back of the driveshaft tube to the front of the CV pinion flange with the car on the ground. Setting this correct gap from DSS may not give you a "correct" driveline angle. Its not too far off though.
 

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If you didn't run out of fuel when you were tuned and you aren't increasing power, no need for a BAP. You would basically be over driving your pumps for no reason.
Agreed. It's a waste of money unless a datalog confirms that you need it.

Why not some headers? You'll pick up a little power, drop some boost and they sound great.
 

RedVenom48

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^^^^ Good point. Dynatechs from autoanything.com are a great start. Call them with the part number and ask for their best price. I paid $760 shipped for my Supermaxx headers. I bought a set of Dynatech exhaust adapters from Summit racing for under $200 bucks. Adapters work on the factory H pipe with the cats cut out and adapters welded in.
 

HillbillyHotRod

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A CV joint in the rear of the driveshaft operates on a different principle than a universal joint. The spec from DSS is a gap mesurement from the back of the driveshaft tube to the front of the CV pinion flange with the car on the ground. Setting this correct gap from DSS may not give you a "correct" driveline angle. Its not too far off though.

Thanks good to know as I have a DSS and am wonder on the pinion angle if I ever lower the car.
 

1st usa car

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If you didn't run out of fuel when you were tuned and you aren't increasing power, no need for a BAP. You would basically be over driving your pumps for no reason.
I can be mistaken but the VMP unit is always on but it is not increasing voltage the entire time --- just there for insurance or when extra voltage is needed. As said b4 it is cheap insurance and ALOT of people run a BAP w/ my setup.
 

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Agreed. It's a waste of money unless a datalog confirms that you need it.

Why not some headers? You'll pick up a little power, drop some boost and they sound great.

Headers are pretty expensive for what I consider little gain $$$=HP... install is not a picnic and MOST importantly I really love my current exhaust setup.
 

RBB

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Headers are pretty expensive for what I consider little gain $$$=HP... install is not a picnic and MOST importantly I really love my current exhaust setup.
Wait until a used set pops up here....they come around fairly frequently. Install is a bit of a pain, but it's doable.

That's all I can come up with given your current mods. You've got all the normal bolt ons covered and a BAP just seems like a waste of money if your data logs look good.
 

R.D.P.

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What about one of those insanely expensive lithium ion batteries and billet trays? That would be a cool just for the hell of it upgrade.
 

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