04 cobra front control arm ID
- Thread starter 97drop
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Unless someone can point out some marking on the control arms you'll probably never know if they are 04 arms.
Ford changed the stamping in 99 to allow for better turning radius.
In 03 the Cobra and Mach 1 got a slightly different stamping where the ball joint was moved forward 1/4 of an inch which improved caster and lengthened the wheel base slightly.
Some say this stamping made its way into all mustangs by 04. I've never seen proof of it just talk.
If someone can tell for certain they are 04 arms I'd like to know how.
Ford changed the stamping in 99 to allow for better turning radius.
In 03 the Cobra and Mach 1 got a slightly different stamping where the ball joint was moved forward 1/4 of an inch which improved caster and lengthened the wheel base slightly.
Some say this stamping made its way into all mustangs by 04. I've never seen proof of it just talk.
If someone can tell for certain they are 04 arms I'd like to know how.
This is the site that tells about the control arms.
Www.tazcobra.com may have something on this, but it is not accessible right now..for some reason.
I think the terminators needed the shift back to run those 275s in the front.
Suspension
www.terminator-cobra.com
Www.tazcobra.com may have something on this, but it is not accessible right now..for some reason.
I think the terminators needed the shift back to run those 275s in the front.
No part # on them anywhere? I had 03 arms before going tubular.
Thanks for the replies. I would be running these on a 97 cobra that still has the stock control arms in the front , basically just trying tot see if these are the upgraded versions . The only numbers I can see stamped on the arms are ‘8 22 02’ ‘9 04 02’ (dates?) and 091002. Appreciate the info
I have my stock 03 arms up in the garage, I’ll look what numbers are on them.
What are your plans for the car and current suspension setup?
I ask because even if those arms aren't from an 04 you can still improve upon them with better bushings and possibly taller ball joints.
well I picked them up on a whim because I knew they were supposed to be better than stock And were $75 for the pair…Car has subframe connectors, rear lca’s, uca bushings , steeda rear shock tower brace, koni str-t’s, b springs and most urethane bushings done up front other than control arms which are all stock. just finished installing an inteecooled vortech v1 t trim and waiting on a base tune to fire it up. Car is a nice day/ weekend cruiser.
03 whitesnake- that would be great
thanks
03 whitesnake- that would be great
thanks
I assume your numbers you are seeing are date codes. Mine are 03 05 03 on one and 02 25 03 on the other. No other numbers on them.
They definitely seem to be dated for the right time period.
thanks guys. These are supposed to have about 55k miles on them . I know the terminator arms are supposed to have better bushings and ball joints…assuming they actually have 55k miles would you guys run them as is or would I be stupid to not do at least do new ball joints while they’re off the car?
Sounds like you want the car to handle well.
If you're going to replace the bushings I highly recommend global west delrin bushings.
Yes they cost more but they will outlast poly by years!
The front end of the car will feel more connected and your steering response will be improved. You'll notice the front end working instead of deflecting. The is because there is zero bind and the arms articulate freely.
You'll also get additional caster as the bushings are offset to push the control arms forward.
I know people freak out about NVH and delrin but I can tell you from experience that with stock location springs you won't get any increased noise. Harshness over bumps will increase slightly though but unless you're on a terrible road it won't he that noticeable.
Just my .02.
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Thanks. I found this stamped on the side but no idea of it is relevant
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Definitely add Steeda X2 ball joint’s. You can keep same ride height or drop it an extra 1/2”. I ran these on 2 cars, and my cobra before going tubular k member and they were great.
Obviously you haven't had any issues with your Steeda X2s but I have come across a few stories of them wearing out quick in the last couple of years.
Proforged offers another option that is also slightly cheaper. Are they better or of the same quality? I have no idea. I just wanted to put it out there as an option for anyone reading this thread.
Wow, Never heard of them wearing out prematurely. I ran them probably 10 years ago now.
The only thing I have ever heard of them is if the a-arm ball joint hole gets damaged (improperly pressing in/out ball joint), the ball joint will not be a real press fit and can come loose. The solution is to add a few tack welds on the bottom to make sure they do not come out. I heard this is popular with the auto-x guys too.
I recently ran across a post here where they didn't last. Before I dumped FB I belonged to a poorly managed new edge page and came across another story of them not lasting.
I'm not a Steeda fanboy by any means, but I'd be curious about the situation that happen. The Steeda balljoints need to be greased and I wonder how many of them didn't realize that.
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