03 Cobra not on all 8 cylinders

ademily87

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Hello all!! Bought the car in March of 2012 with 100k miles on it. Just hit 132k miles and all I've done is put gas in it, change the tires, and do oil changes without a single issue.

Well last night at work a friend of mine wanted to go for a lil ride during our break, and I did a 2nd gear pull to 4th gear, staying below 6k rpm between shifts (even under hard driving, i drive her easy). All was well, went back to work, parked, and didn't start her again until about 2 hours later when i was leaving. Started normal, then the idle dropped to almost 500, and sounded like somebody snuck cams in my car while i was working (i wish). Its not backfiring, but can barely pull itself in any gear. Definitely not firing on all 8 cylinders.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RgXOF3feN1Q

So today i pulled all the plugs-driver side plugs were all wet with fuel. Passenger side plugs were dry, except for the one closest to the firewall, which was also wet with fuel, but not as bad as the one on the drivers side.

So, next step. Fuel pressure test with my handy dandy gauge-this video will speak for itself (sorry, forgot to change my phones video settings to a higher quality)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyjFrGZj058

So after a beer and a cigarette, i went back outside and unplugged the coil packs, one at a time, listening for a change in idle. Drivers side, had hardly no change in idle. Maybe something slight, but the car is running so rough its hard to tell a minor change. Now, the passenger side, staring a the coil pack closest to the bumper, IMMEDIATELY the car falls on its face when unplugged, same as the other 3. So now, passenger side cylinders are firing normal (I'm guessing), but not the passenger side. WTH?

Last thing I did-swapped a coil pack from the side that had no effect on the idle to the side that is affected by the coil pack being unplugged, and same results. So it's not the coil packs themselves.

Also unplugged the FRPS and smelled for gas, nothing. No change in idle when the vacuum line is unplugged or the electrical connector unplugged.

I'm stumped. No CEL, no codes (got it scanned for codes anyways), no smoking, no knocking, no smells.

Car is stock motor, 2.8 upper only, air intake, slp exhaust. No other mods (mechanically). And like mentioned before, 132k miles.

Thanks in advance,

Justin
 

Riddick

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It sounds like your front o2 sensor crapped out, strange it did not throw a code. I would get 8 new plugs, sounds like you need them anyways and swap your o2 sensors (driver and passenger side).
 

Riddick

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Gah i hate to go spend the money on o2 sensors when I'm not even getting a code. It's driving me nuts!!

Thats why I mentioned to swap them and see if problem follows. You posted that all 4 of your drivers side plugs were wet with fuel. So I would not think a single plug or coil failure would cause your symptoms. I mentioned that one sensor because it controls all of the cylinders on that one side.
 

03SonicVert

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^it really does sound like a FRPS and if you have the means to swap one I would. At the minimum try to monitor the FRPS and see what it's telling the PCM. Even though it is unplugged the cylinders can be washed down, plugs wet and not changing the engine runs with it unplugged. Do you have a vacuum pump or clear vacuum line you could run to the FRPS?

If you rule out the FRPS then:

Can you take compression on all cylinders or at least a couple from bank to bank?
(Granted the fuel soaked cylinders are going to show low but you can do wet on both sides just to check for valve train issues, broken secondary, primary guides/tensioners, etc)

Do you have catalytic converters or OR pipe?
Do you have a vacuum gauge? Steady and low or fluctuating?

How about a handheld? Can you look at what the FRP is feeding the PCM psi wise?

If it is bank specific, which I'm not saying it absolutely is, you can narrow it down to primary/secondary cam chain, tensioner, cams, etc. catalyst (if equipped), 02S, etc.

A handheld could show you if it is running well enough to go into closed loop, look at long and short trims from bank to bank, (if in open loop throw the trims out the window).

If it happened on hard pulls..... Possible there is mecahnical problem which compression test would show, catalyst melted if equipped, you torqued the engine and trans which damaged or dislodged a harness which is rubbing, pinched or melted/burnt.

I would start with mechanical compression and then think about a handheld. If you have cats maybe drop the mid pipe after you remove all the plugs, crank over the engine to remove raw fuel, reinstall and run with mid pipe dropped.

How's the oil look? Full, overfull, smell like fuel?

SV
 
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WhiTriCobra

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Fuel fouled plugs are just like dead plugs. Swap the frps and get new plugs. Car should be fine after that.
 

Blueline

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Even after you change it, the car needs to run a bit to clean everything out. You could have fuel in the vac lines even if you didn't smell any. And def. change out those plugs. Once you have it all back together, let it idle a bit then try revving and driving it to try and "clear" everything.
 

ademily87

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Even after you change it, the car needs to run a bit to clean everything out. You could have fuel in the vac lines even if you didn't smell any. And def. change out those plugs. Once you have it all back together, let it idle a bit then try revving and driving it to try and "clear" everything.

Will do. Started raining on me now so I'm gonna wait a bit.

Went to do a compression check yesterday and they wanted $240! Lmao! I laughed in their face and walked out lol
 

Blueline

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Will do. Started raining on me now so I'm gonna wait a bit.

Went to do a compression check yesterday and they wanted $240! Lmao! I laughed in their face and walked out lol

Lol screw that!!! You can buy a decent tester and do it yourself in a half hour and add another tool to your arsenal. :beer:
 

Riddick

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Changed the FRPS and nothing. About to do the spark plugs.

Car is OR/X pipe

add swapping o2 sensors to the list....lol. I could be wrong but if your FRPS goes bad wont all eight cylinders be flooded and not only four? That sensor controls fuel flow to both rails correct, not just the drivers side. Hope you get it sorted out and hope its a simple fix.
 
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Blueline

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It's on the driver side at the rear of the blower under where the egr is and next to the bypass valve. The reason I ask is the 0234 code is also for a boost sensor disconnected or faulty sensor. Your ECM could be getting a faulty reading causing your first code of a misfire.
 

ademily87

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It's on the driver side at the rear of the blower under where the egr is and next to the bypass valve. The reason I ask is the 0234 code is also for a boost sensor disconnected or faulty sensor. Your ECM could be getting a faulty reading causing your first code of a misfire.

Have a picture? Lol
 

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