Just needed to know, cause I can't see so well, do I have to take the wheel bearings off to remove the front rotors???
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03 Cobra Front Rotors, HELP??
- Thread starter sawman70
- Start date
Looks like I am not getting them turned today, they look like you have to take off the bearing crown nut and repack everything when done.
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Took some slight manipulation with a hammer to loosen them up, but they came off.
Off to the road course tomorrow!!!!!
This ended up being a very exciting and informative thread.
epper: LOL!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:
Edit Edit Edit
Took some slight manipulation with a hammer to loosen them up, but they came off.
Off to the road course tomorrow!!!!!
This ended up being a very exciting and informative thread.
epper: LOL!!!!!!!!!:thumbsup:
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the rotor floats on the hub. take the caliper off and the rotor falls in your lap if the assembly clip on the wheel stud has been removed. (and your rotors have been off)
dont turn rotors. they're thin to begin with and all turning does is remove the mass which lessens their effectiveness. ESPECIALLY in a road course context. what people think is a warped rotor is almost always an uneven application of brake pad compound.
the front wheel bearings are sealed and cannot be repacked and preload is fixed. put the hub on, torque the nut down, replace the grease cap, and you're done.
new hubs come caked with never-sieze so the rotors dont weld themselves to the hub. never-sieze is your friend.
you running at mid-ohio, nelson ledges, or somewhere else?
stay safe
dont turn rotors. they're thin to begin with and all turning does is remove the mass which lessens their effectiveness. ESPECIALLY in a road course context. what people think is a warped rotor is almost always an uneven application of brake pad compound.
the front wheel bearings are sealed and cannot be repacked and preload is fixed. put the hub on, torque the nut down, replace the grease cap, and you're done.
new hubs come caked with never-sieze so the rotors dont weld themselves to the hub. never-sieze is your friend.
you running at mid-ohio, nelson ledges, or somewhere else?
stay safe
ShelbyGuy said:the rotor floats on the hub. take the caliper off and the rotor falls in your lap if the assembly clip on the wheel stud has been removed. (and your rotors have been off)
dont turn rotors. they're thin to begin with and all turning does is remove the mass which lessens their effectiveness. ESPECIALLY in a road course context. what people think is a warped rotor is almost always an uneven application of brake pad compound.
the front wheel bearings are sealed and cannot be repacked and preload is fixed. put the hub on, torque the nut down, replace the grease cap, and you're done.
new hubs come caked with never-sieze so the rotors dont weld themselves to the hub. never-sieze is your friend.
you running at mid-ohio, nelson ledges, or somewhere else?
stay safe
Too Late, Ford charged me $114.00 to remove .040".
They didn't fall off though, they had to be persuaded to come off, they were pretty well bonded to the hub by rust etc.
Installed a set of Hawk pads (non ceramic) and seasoned them per the directions last night.
Heading to Nelsons, first time to a track of any kind.
Looking at the tires later on yesterday, saw the issue was the drivers front.
Hopefully the 40 thou won't effect life. They are still pretty fat and the Hawks are supposed to run cooler.
$114 to turn two rotors?!?!sawman70 said:
I had Pep Boys turn some Cobra rotors a few years ago for $40 for both! You should be fine with the cut rotors.
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for $114 you could have gotten two NEW rotors (well, almost. they're $60 each)
cutting them off the car doesnt help anyway. you need to have them cut on the car so the runout of the face of the hub is accounted for. thats if your into things like cutting rotors. it only makes them less effective.
cutting them off the car doesnt help anyway. you need to have them cut on the car so the runout of the face of the hub is accounted for. thats if your into things like cutting rotors. it only makes them less effective.
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So are you saying we need to cut our shiney new purchased rotors on the car so the runout of the face of the hub is accounted for?ShelbyGuy said:
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MikeC said:$114 to turn two rotors?!?!
Yeah, my a$$ still hurts, and I did not complain to Ford, it was simple supply and demand.
I needed it done and they were the only shop willing to do it.
No pep boys in town, Autozone does not machine, NAPA closes too damn early for working people and Murray's said they had no specs and refused.
That leaves me $114 lighter but..... Took it to the track, beat the crap out of the brakes, 125mph and slamming into the turns all without a hint of vibration, fade or anything. So, no they do not need to be on the car.
The sting of the Ford rape will end soon, but the memories of track day with my Father and two freinds will be with me till I die. So, no worries here.
Sounds like it was well worth the $114!sawman70 said:
MikeC said:
exactly:beer:
why would anyone cut a shiny new rotor in the first place?
THINK.
THINK.
MikeC said:
ShelbyGuy said:
WIth all due respect, and I mean that, your logic is running in circles.
You mention the rotors must be turned on the car to account for the hub runout, that would mean by default, a shiney new rotor was useless because it was turned off the car and therefore was not accounting for the hub runout.
All I can say is this, I have been working on cars for about 25 years now, worked at a dealership for a couple and have never had an issue with turned rotors that were turned off the car.
Yes, the high end garages now turn them on the car, and I would believe this to be the most true and accurate way of turning. But if the hub is cleaned properly and the inside of the rotor cleaned before install, all is good.
I have never had an issue.
Why? To take all that hub runout in to account. According to you 'cutting them off the car doesnt help anyway. you need to have them cut on the car so the runout of the face of the hub is accounted for'.ShelbyGuy said:
If this holds true for a fresh cut used rotor, dosen't it also hold true for a shiney new rotor? Any runout on the face of the hub will be there for a used rotor or a new rotor. Both are cut off the car.
THINK - about what you said.
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...
i dont condone cutting in the first place. but if you're going to do it (the placebo effect is powerful), do it on the car.
and no it doesnt. because jim-bob down at the auto parts store cant make sure the rotor is true in the brake lathe in the first place. it will be flatter coming out of the box new than if you have it cut. but thanks for playing.
and no it doesnt. because jim-bob down at the auto parts store cant make sure the rotor is true in the brake lathe in the first place. it will be flatter coming out of the box new than if you have it cut. but thanks for playing.
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ShelbyGuy said:
unless they are actually warped, which can be checked with a dial indicator
ShelbyGuy said:
Somehow you left out the hub runout again?:shrug: Using your theory, a new rotor would not be truly flat/proper without turning it on the car. Hence the circle of ill-logic.
cut rotors....................
Wow reading this thread is making me ill:xpl: . First off you can get rotors turned for about 10 bucks apiece and I live in a town of less than 10,000. Second, lightly skimming rotors had no adverse effects on my 03 dsg cobra at Nelson Ledges last weekend ( I ran Hawk HP PLUS at this track). Third, Raceshopper.com has rotors and Hawk HT-10 pads ($169 alone) for like $210. So rotors work out to about 42 bucks for both. I used this combo at Putnam park and Waterford Hills this year and it was an awesome combo. So do some shopping:bash:
Wow reading this thread is making me ill:xpl: . First off you can get rotors turned for about 10 bucks apiece and I live in a town of less than 10,000. Second, lightly skimming rotors had no adverse effects on my 03 dsg cobra at Nelson Ledges last weekend ( I ran Hawk HP PLUS at this track). Third, Raceshopper.com has rotors and Hawk HT-10 pads ($169 alone) for like $210. So rotors work out to about 42 bucks for both. I used this combo at Putnam park and Waterford Hills this year and it was an awesome combo. So do some shopping:bash:
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Brakes
And don't forget the Ford high Performance brake fluid (best stuff Ford sells). BTW I also installed Russell SS brake lines all around from Raceshopper as well.:loser:
And don't forget the Ford high Performance brake fluid (best stuff Ford sells). BTW I also installed Russell SS brake lines all around from Raceshopper as well.:loser:
I'm not sure how turning a rotor envokes a placebo effect? And I'm sure the $1 a day guy in the Thailand brake factory does a much better job of machining a rotor than Jim-Bob.:-DShelbyGuy said:
Still, what about the hub runout?
BTW my last post was sarcastic, you should not need to machine a new rotor.
DukeNukem1 said:
Not gonna acknowledge the shop around shit because I did and no one around here would turn them but Ford and time was a HUGE factor. I did what I had to do. Let's move on.
How did you do at Nelson's. That was my first time at a track of any kind. I ran a 1'34" as my best time. I know it sucks, I cannot wait to go back.
I would leave everyone in the straights, by large amounts, then the turns were just killing me. Lott of stuffy BMW guys there, some cool porshe guys and Vette guys, I was the lone Ford other that a 66 Fastback that showed up late.
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