'03 Cobra Driveway Oil change write up

[apollo7]

I did a write-up on how to change the oil on your '03/'04 Cobra in your driveway. (about 6mb) Set up for first timers. I haven't seen a write-up before, but I didn't look too hard either. Will take your comments, enjoy!

http://home.comcast.net/~jjkishel/cobraoilchange.doc

 

[BoneCrusher]

Dude, awesome job! Especially the beer part, lol.

 

[mustangfreak_01]

You put some nice oil in it and then put on a Fram filter?

Not my choice, but it is your car.

 

[EVIL1]

Hey when I tried to look at this I got a "Malicious Script" Warning from Norton??

 

[BoneCrusher]

Mods need to move this to the new "How To" section so it sticks around for a while.

 

[apollo7]

If you figure out what the malicious script business is let me know.

As a post script, I checked the oil today and it needed an extra 1/2 quart. Guess it does take 6.5 quarts. Depends on how patient you are in letting the old oil drain out.

The Fram Filter is the Tough Guard with supposed 99% efficency (sounds very official and highly technical). Which filter would you suggest?

 

[Spritle]

Originally posted by mustangfreak_01
You put some nice oil in it and then put on a Fram filter?

Not my choice, but it is your car.

Whats wrong w/ Fram filters?? I use them on my Coupe and my Truck.

 

[Chris_H]

Yeah I have seen some pretty detailed articles on oil filters and how well they work or don't work. This has been about 2 years now, but FRAM was WAY down at the bottom on how well they work. I use the Motorcraft on both my LX and my 03. But everybody has their opinions. Good write up though!

 

[scraggsds]

I also use motorsport filter.

 

[mosconiac]

Whats wrong with Fram??!?! For starters, look HERE and if you make it pass that...try HERE

 

[halo]

The oil filter study that mosconiac cited is a good read. I read it awhile back and now use purolator or motorcraft filters. I think the study showed that Wix filters are also good (if you can find them locally).

 

[USMC0341]

Good write up, thanks for your hard work:beer:

 

[Wings65288]

thanks for this wonderful writeup man, i just changed my own oil for the first time, i changed it after i drove it for about 2,500 miles or so. if you want a good oil writeup then you should print this out and use this while changing your oil, and this pics are wonderful. one thing i know not to do next time, is tighten the oil filter in the center of the can lol, i kinda dented it but not too much. you have to tighten it from the very edge where it has the grooves. lol thats what i get for being dumb, i know next time thanks again, -justin.

 

[apollo7]

Glad you liked it. I'm going to go with the motorcraft filter next time, but I just found the K&N oil filters at Auto Zone so I'm conflicted right now....

 

[notdisturbed]

I run the K&N Gold filter. If i cant find that i use the Mobil 1 filter.

 

[*P*Grass]

the link is broke can someone host that doc again?

 

[Sniperdog]

this is all I got.,., now how am I gonna change my oil :shrug:
Sorry, the page you were looking for could not be found.
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[Tractionless1]

Don't know if it was in your thread but I place aluminum foil over the bracing below the filter so the filter the oil runs off into the drainpan.

I use a Ford Racing filter ($14) not the OEM Motorcraft garbage, and Amsoil 5w-20

 

[apollo7]

A lot of people have been asking for this, so I got off my lazy butt and reposted, enjoy.

How to change your ‘03/’04 Cobra’s Oil in your driveway

Things you will need:
• At least 6 quarts of oil (you may need 6.5) (use the search function for unending debates about brand/weight of oil is best)
• Oil Filter (I used to use Fram TG2, switched to a Mobil 1 filter) (see the first bullet point)
• Oil catch pan ($7 at Walmart)
• Medium size funnel ($0.79 at Walmart)
• Ratchet with 3 inch extender and 5/8 inch socket
• Low rise ramps ($16 at Walmart)
• Oil recycling facility (Advance Auto takes used oil for free, just ask them)
• Paper towels
• Safety goggles

Things you may want to make life easier:
• Cheap aluminum foil
• Tarp or old blanket to keep oil off driveway (you will spill/splatter some)
• Oil filter wrench (I’ve never used one)
• Rubber gloves
• Trash can lined with plastic bag
• Coveralls (chicks love them)
• 1-2 12oz beers

Step 1
Warm the car up to operating temp, drive the car up on your ramps, set the parking brake, put car in reverse, shut down car, and pop hood. Make sure your front tires are actually on the ramps (details).

Step 2
Remove the oil fill cap, ignore the suggested oil weight on the cap

Step 3
Climb under and locate the oil drain plug. It is on the driver’s side of the oil pan right in the crook of the K member

Step 4
Bring the oil drain pan under the car with you. Place the center of the drain pan 6-8 inches away from the drain plug towards the driver’s side of the car (oil will come rushing out 6-8 inches away from the plug when you loosen it). Use you ratchet to loosen the drain plug. Counterclockwise to loosen. This is a good time to be wearing rubber gloves as the oil will be warm/hot and will get all over hands. The experienced Jedi will use the cheap aluminum foil to form a “v” to keep the oil from running all over the K – member. I make the little “v”, the oil still runs all over the K member. It’s OK, we’ll clean up later.

Step 5
Let the oil drain out until it stops (or until you get impatient). Use this time to locate the oil filter (about a foot back from the front bumper on the driver’s side again) and ensure that you bought the correct oil filter. If you did, you can pre-oil the new filter by pouring about ½ a quart of new oil into the filter over the course of 3-4 minutes. If you bought the wrong filter, use your winter car to get the right one at Walmart. Some don’t pre-oil the filter, b/c as you will see it installs horizontally (= more mess) but it seems like an easy thing to do and can only be good for the engine. Use your finger to spread some oil on the orange gasket on the new filter.

Step 6
When the oil is done draining from the plug use a few towels to clean the oil you inevitably got on the K member as well as the area around the plug. Remove your aluminum V. Reinsert the drain plug (clockwise = tighty). Be sure not to crossthread (if it is difficult to screw it in, you are doing something wrong).

Step 7
Slide forward a little, bring the oil drain pan with you and place it under the old oil filter. Reach up and unscrew the old oil filter. Be prepared for a little splatter, there will be some (not a lot) of free oil in the filter that will spill out. (Again you can try the aluminum V but you are just a glutton for punishment). The filter should be on hand tight. If it is too tight you can use an oil filter wrench (or the old method of hammering a long screw driver through the old filter for leverage – but to me this is a last resort – you will make a huge mess, and you may damage something from all the hammering). Honestly, if you can’t get it off with your hands consider a beer and try again in a few minutes. The oil filter sockets seem nice, but I’ve not needed one yet.

Step 8
Let the oil drain from the old filter into your drain pan and let the remaining oil drain from the car (this should only take a minute or two). Clean the area around the filter site with a towel and make sure there are no clinging bits of old filter gasket. If there are, scrape them off.

Step 9
Install your new pre-oiled filter. You will make a little mess when you tip it sideways, but the filter mesh inside the filter will hold most of the oil. Hand tighten 1/8 to ¼ turn after the gasket contacts the vehicle.

Step 10
Further clean up, possible opportunity for second beer.

Step 11
Review in your head that 1) you put the drain plug back in and 2) you put the new oil filter on. If you have met both requirements: use your funnel to put the new oil in the oil fill on the driver’s side valve cover. Do this somewhat slowly. Most would put in 5 quarts, check the oil level on the dipstick to see where they are and then continue filling (remember you’ve got ½ quart in the pre-oiled filter). Put at least 6 quarts in. You'll probably need a total of 6.5 quarts when all is said and done. This is why the dipstick is there, to tell you how much you need.

Step 12
When you are sure you have 1) put 6 quarts of oil in the car 2) have reinstalled the drain plug, new oil filter, and oil fill cap and 3) have checked for leaks around the plug and filter you may start the car. Check again for leaks. Let the car run for a minute. If there are no leaks, shut the hood and back up off the ramps. Shut her down, let the oil settle back in the pan for a few minutes and double check your oil level. Check it again in a day or so. Also check you driveway for oil (you may have a drop or two still coming off the car from the K member debacle. I’m a pharmacist and I end up triple checking important stuff – I gotta be me.

Step 13
Clean up. Go for a spin and recycle your oil as long as you didn’t have the 2 beers. If you needed them, do this errand later.

Honestly, changing your oil only saves you a few bucks. But I find it therapeutic. You can be sure the job was done right and you can do it in the convenience of your own driveway. Plus you get to wear the coveralls. Total time for the job is ~30 minutes.

 

[Juruense]

If you are using anything other than a Motorcraft oil filter you are WRONG.