01 cobra dyno, 5.0l stroker, d1sc

[32vApe]

Finally got on a dyno. Build specs:

WAP block .020" over
Kellog 3.75" crank
Oliver billet rods
Diamond 5cc dish pistons 10.6:1 compression
TEA stg 3 ported 04 cobra heads
Crower stage 3 blower cams
Sullivan intake
Accufab 4150 throttle body with a procharger carb hat
D1sc, 3.85" pulley
Stock diameter ati balancer
E85, 19deg timing at 4000rpm, 21deg timing 6000rpm and up
13lbs of boost at 7400rpm

794whp@7400, 579wtq@6400

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[19935.slow]

Big numbers!

 

[watman02]

wow good job.
why did you go with such high compression for a blower car?

 

[black4vcobra]

Nice! Where did you get it dyno tuned?

 

[32vApe]

I went with the higher compression to help with the midrange torque loss from the Sullivan. I wanted to try and make power with lower boost, higher compression, more timing and rpm. As you can see in the graph it would keep make power reving it higher, but the stock ecu starts to break up at 7600 so I have the limiter set to 7500. After I do a t56 magnum and twin disk, pro efi is going in so I can spin it to 8k. I did all the tuning myself on the street. A friend of mine works for a shop that has a mobile dynojet. We rented it for the day and he brought it to my shop so some friends of mine and I could get some numbers.

 

[99cobra09]

Building something very similar to your set up except mine is not 5.0L and not manual trans. I stayed with 4.6 at about 10.8.1 and a c4 through a p1sc at 13psi. Planning on taking up to 7500rpm.

 

[vic_s197]

Sweet numbers man. I wish I would have gone higher compression I'm at 10.0:1 with an f1a 20 psi with 13 degrees of timing makes 690 rwhp at 6000 rpm. I got a buddy looking for a new shortblock I'm thinking of selling it to him and and buy an aluminum shortblock with higher compression and 11.5:1

 

[32vApe]

Building something very similar to your set up except mine is not 5.0L and not manual trans. I stayed with 4.6 at about 10.8.1 and a c4 through a p1sc at 13psi. Planning on taking up to 7500rpm.

.

Rpm is the way to go for a centri car. What intake Mani are you going to run?

Sweet numbers man. I wish I would have gone higher compression I'm at 10.0:1 with an f1a 20 psi with 13 degrees of timing makes 690 rwhp at 6000 rpm. I got a buddy looking for a new shortblock I'm thinking of selling it to him and and buy an aluminum shortblock with higher compression and 11.5:1

Why so little timing? 3-4 degrees would be fine and you would add a big chunk of power. I might build a teksid block with flat tops for 11:1 and go bigger on the cams. Seeing the dyno graph now I want to spin it 8k+.

 

[evolve]

Nice numbers there!

 

[99cobra09]

.

Rpm is the way to go for a centri car. What intake Mani are you going to run?

Im running the stock 99/01 lower manifold that has been ported with a 1/2 spacer. I want to get the that torque up there. The lower is the stock length runners but if it affects the powerband im going to have to shorten the runners to get peak power in the 7k+ rpms.

 

[vic_s197]

They wanted me to get my rear end built before they turned it up cuz it had a lot of play in it when we got it off the dyno its a ticking time bomb now lol. I want to run more timing and take it up to at least 7300 rpm to get me down the 1/4 . I'm hoping it can make more torque I'm at 610 rwtq

 

[97snakebite]

any info on your build?? curious about your cooling setup

 

[32vApe]

any info on your build?? curious about your cooling setup

I bought the tank from canton. I welded three -12an fittings to the tank, and one 3/8'" npt bung for the coolant temp sensor. I bought the MMR fittings that go into the heads where the stock crossover tube used to go. Then the -12an line from the MMR fittings into the canton tank. One over the blower you can see and one coming in the back of the tank from the driver side head. Then I made a outlet for the back of the drivers side head from a pass side rear outlet tube by cutting the bracket off, flipping it around rewelding it. so the oulet from the heater core tees into the outlet from the rear of the drivers head. A single -12an hose from that tee runs under the intake into the third -12an fitting on the back of the canton tank. The outlet of the tank to the radiator is the one you can see in the picture facing forward then turning, going under the blower and into the upper radiator inlet. There is also a hose coming off the bottom of the tank that goes to the stock thermostat housing.

 

[4valved]

Sick is that wap block going to last?

 

[no cigar]

What did you use to tune it?

 

[32vApe]

The only WAP blocks I have seen break were over 1000whp. They crack around the motor mount bosses into the bottom of the headstud holes and seap coolant externally. I have been keeping my eye on it and crossing my fingers. I used SCT pro racer package to tune it.

 

[4valved]

Cool build man

 

[-venom-]

I bought the tank from canton. I welded three -12an fittings to the tank, and one 3/8'" npt bung for the coolant temp sensor. I bought the MMR fittings that go into the heads where the stock crossover tube used to go. Then the -12an line from the MMR fittings into the canton tank. One over the blower you can see and one coming in the back of the tank from the driver side head. Then I made a outlet for the back of the drivers side head from a pass side rear outlet tube by cutting the bracket off, flipping it around rewelding it. so the oulet from the heater core tees into the outlet from the rear of the drivers head. A single -12an hose from that tee runs under the intake into the third -12an fitting on the back of the canton tank. The outlet of the tank to the radiator is the one you can see in the picture facing forward then turning, going under the blower and into the upper radiator inlet. There is also a hose coming off the bottom of the tank that goes to the stock thermostat housing.

Are you using the cap as a pressure cap? Is the line coming off the cap more of a bypass to lower radiator hose into stock thermostat housing therefore the cap is more of a high point to bleed the system in keeping with the stock setup? How about thermostat, where is it? Did you block off water pump inlet from rear of heads to block. Have you run this with AC in traffic? I have a sully setup and currently going to weld -12 fittings but have yet to address what is the best and cleanest way to setup the overflow can. I can draw up a diagram once I know how you plumbed yours to aid others.

 

[procharged 99]

nasty setup you got there get some vids of it when you take to the track.

 

[Prototype007]

Great numbers OP!